I am finally returning my thoughts and energy's to building my Craftsman 1f tank.
This will be my first attempt at CSBs and I have ditched the kits own somewhat crude 00 chassis in favour of a set of Gibson Milled frames.I am intending to use handrail Knobs for the fulcrum points and High Level horn blocks/guides with their etched hangers .... I have the High Level setting out jig for the installation.
As I am still using the traditional extended pointed axels to set up the chassis and because the frames came with the horn guides spaces already cut out - as my first task I am making up the coupling rods .... so in due course I can use these to fix the accurate positions of the horn guides via the blocks. Unfortunately the rods came as single length etches across the three wheels (with a front and back face which need soldering together). Having re-read Will's CSB thread I decided to articulate the rods at the boss rather than on the crank pin as well as splitting them down into pairs.
So far I have fabricated up one set, inserting a core between the two faces of the rods and so far so good.
I have two questions/requests for help/advice which hopefully more experienced bods could advise upon.
Firstly I note that in Will's thread the articulation of the rods is achieved by use of a Rivet
. I would be really grateful to be pointed in the direction of the kind of rivet used, and perhaps a little more explanation on the process of fitting said rivet using the 'kitchen worktop' toolset. I am using the Gibson Crank Pins and want to ensure that the back of the fixing doesn't foul the wheel boss/spokes.
Secondly, by adding the core to the laminated rods to achieve the fork for the articulation, the resultant triple laminate thickness is slightly deeper than the depth of the standard Gibson crank pin hub. I have some of the deeper hubs meant for accommodating the motion, but using the deeper hubs results in a fair bit of spare movement (the rods are only slightly too thick). Any suggestions as to how I might take out some of this slop would be appreciated or will it be fine left as is? ( I am concerned about the rods sliding such that they jamb). I am loathe to file down the rods themselves given the articulation fork is already quite thin .... might spacers work? or should I be thinking about filing down the (longer) hub itself, which process given my toolset could be difficult to keep square