The next job is to clean up the end or corner stanchions. These are simple bars bent to an angle so that they rest on the top plate. The instructions suggest that they need to be lightly filed to achieve the correct angle that enbles them to sit on the top plate.
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The stanchions as supplied are shown on the left and need to be altered as shown on the right. My crude annotation shows that the tip needs to be filed back to be at right angles to the outside face. If there were only a couple to do then I'd attempt to eyeball it, but for a dozen (not having any spares!) I thought about a way to hold the stanchions to make life easier.
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Whilst walking by the canal earlier, I realised that I could use my 1-2-3 blocks (actually 10-20-40 blocks, 'coz they're metric) from
Arc Euro Trade to hold the stanchions and act as a filing jig to get the angle correct. The blocks are tapped for M6 screws, so they can be bolted together in various ways. Very handy for creating a right-angle jig when resistance soldering.
The stanchions measure about 1.5mm wide, so I've found a scrap of 60thou plastic card to act as a spacer and prevent the blocks skewing when tightened together.
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The blocks are finger-tightened on the spacer and then slipped on top of a stanchion sitting fce down on a block of wood. The wood is only needed because I'm using screws that stick out beyond the sides of the blocks. Now adjust the stanchion so that the top edge of the angle is level with the edge of the blocks.
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Nip up the screws and the stanchion is positioned just right for the excess to be filed off.
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The blocks aren't hardened, but going gently with the file won't do any major damage. A few strokes and the stachion is taken down level with the blocks.
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Slacken off the screws and the geometry can be seen easily.
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The result is a spot-on fit on the wagon.
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I love it when a plan comes together.
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