Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
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Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
I have over 70 pre-grouping wagons that are complete all but couplings. I also have a EU butter-mountain of Smiths couplings. But I’m thinking that they are just too big; even though I’ve already got them on a lot of my stock. So I’m looking for something finer. Not too small that I’ll struggle to couple. What do you use? Can you share some comparable photos please.
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
I use the Exactoscale draw hook (4CP303A) from Scalefour stores together with Exactoscale links which I used to get from C&L. Unfortunately, the latter I do not think are available from the Stores but people have made them from nickel silver wire. There have been articles on this and, I think, some posts on the Forum.
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
My preference is for an Ambis or Brassmasters hook, with either home produced links or links adapted from the formerly available EM Society chain. Often I will use a steel EMGS link either side of an old MGW nickel silver link, which gives a coupling a little longer than scale but more user friendly. Near to scale links are available from Smiths as well as the heavily overscale ones they normally supply.
One useful dodge is that I only ever use a single thickness of etched hook. The cynics amongst you will note that this gives you two coupling hooks for the price of one, but a serious reason is that a single thickness is much easier to get a coupling pole around as there is more room to drop the links on and lift off. I round the edges of the hooks so they look reasonable.
Ambis and Brassmasters hooks are used because they are a little over scale; once again a compromise to make the system work. I find exact scale hooks are a bit of a pain because they are so small.
As you have a lot of the Smiths couplings you could use the links by snipping a bit out of each link and reforming it (as I do with the old EMGS ones) and fit them to new hooks.
I will try to take a picture or two next time I’m in the workshop.
Philip
One useful dodge is that I only ever use a single thickness of etched hook. The cynics amongst you will note that this gives you two coupling hooks for the price of one, but a serious reason is that a single thickness is much easier to get a coupling pole around as there is more room to drop the links on and lift off. I round the edges of the hooks so they look reasonable.
Ambis and Brassmasters hooks are used because they are a little over scale; once again a compromise to make the system work. I find exact scale hooks are a bit of a pain because they are so small.
As you have a lot of the Smiths couplings you could use the links by snipping a bit out of each link and reforming it (as I do with the old EMGS ones) and fit them to new hooks.
I will try to take a picture or two next time I’m in the workshop.
Philip
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
I used whatever hooks I could lay my paws on, but links I made using the method in 'The 4mm Coal wagon' by John Hayes (WSP).
Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
Here's a couple of pictures: Ambis hooks I think and the chain I described. I didn't make a very good job of closing one of the middle links! Brassmasters also supply some very fine chain for couplings.
Philip
Philip
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
Philip, those Ambis/Brassmasters hooks look better than Smiths. I need to have a look out for some of the Brassmasters links.
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
Hi Richard
Last time we met, I seem to recall we had some discussion about this.
I currently use Masokit hooks, double thickness with the hook shaped a little with a file, together with Smiths links - either 3 link or instanter. This seems to provide a good compromise. Fitting the links to the hooks is easy. Using two pairs of pliers the slot in the hook is twisted open, the top link dropped in and the slot closed up again. I find this is easier than threading an opened up link though a hole In the hook.
Regards, Chris
Last time we met, I seem to recall we had some discussion about this.
I currently use Masokit hooks, double thickness with the hook shaped a little with a file, together with Smiths links - either 3 link or instanter. This seems to provide a good compromise. Fitting the links to the hooks is easy. Using two pairs of pliers the slot in the hook is twisted open, the top link dropped in and the slot closed up again. I find this is easier than threading an opened up link though a hole In the hook.
Regards, Chris
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
Over the decades I've used hooks from many sources, including home made, and have come to prefer the Exactoscale stamped ones because of their superior appearance. However, as others have mentioned, etched hooks can have advantages.
I thought some observations I've made may help your decisions:
1. Pick something that looks good, unlike the one in the middle.
Chemically blacken everything before assembly - don't paint to help avoid the problem with the rear example!
2. Make sure the hook is open enough to avoid the following.
The link on the hook doesn't hang down and may easily bump off when running.
3. Think about whether or not you wish to spring the hooks. In my view not needed for short trains but highly beneficial for long ones in reducing shock from snatching couplings that can lead to derailments. I guess you'll be running 40-60 wagon trains.
The rear one illustrates the need for care with hooks that have a slot for gedge in the top coupling link - if a little too open and the link is not fully closed it can fall out. Has anyone ever made a link with the proper detail in 4mm scale?
(Richard can probably guess the prototypes for these models that have been under construction for a long time.)
I thought some observations I've made may help your decisions:
1. Pick something that looks good, unlike the one in the middle.
Chemically blacken everything before assembly - don't paint to help avoid the problem with the rear example!
2. Make sure the hook is open enough to avoid the following.
The link on the hook doesn't hang down and may easily bump off when running.
3. Think about whether or not you wish to spring the hooks. In my view not needed for short trains but highly beneficial for long ones in reducing shock from snatching couplings that can lead to derailments. I guess you'll be running 40-60 wagon trains.
The rear one illustrates the need for care with hooks that have a slot for gedge in the top coupling link - if a little too open and the link is not fully closed it can fall out. Has anyone ever made a link with the proper detail in 4mm scale?
(Richard can probably guess the prototypes for these models that have been under construction for a long time.)
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Regards,
Andrew Nummelin
Andrew Nummelin
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
ChrisMitchell wrote:Hi Richard
Last time we met, I seem to recall we had some discussion about this.
I currently use Masokit hooks, double thickness with the hook shaped a little with a file, together with Smiths links - either 3 link or instanter. This seems to provide a good compromise. Fitting the links to the hooks is easy. Using two pairs of pliers the slot in the hook is twisted open, the top link dropped in and the slot closed up again. I find this is easier than threading an opened up link though a hole In the hook.
Regards, Chris
Yes we did talk about this Chris. My objective in starting this topic was to ask people to post photos so that I can make a visual comparision and thanks go to Philip and Andrew who've provided some photos. I think the Exactoscale hooks are just a bit too small and I can see that in a few years time I would probably regret using them!
Andrew's photo of ANDR wagons, possibly the only British wagons to have buffer beams above the wagon floor, show that sometimes a true scale hook and links are required.
Andrew, I'd love to run 60 wagon trains but at the moment the fiddle yard will only take trains half that length. Plus filling a fiddle yard that size with 34 trains will required lockdown to continue for another 5 years!
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
I decided some time ago to standardise on Smith's hooks and links. I accept that they are oversized but, having tried to couple up using scale hooks and links, I decided that life was too short...
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
Exactoscale hooks and links. I touch the top of the hook on each side to the angle grinder to make a bit more of a point which makes it easier to drop the links over.
In answer to Andrew's mention of a gedge, I put a pinch in the top link of screw couplings and use it to put the link in to the hook. The hook is again Exactoscale and the screw coupling Masokit.
In answer to Andrew's mention of a gedge, I put a pinch in the top link of screw couplings and use it to put the link in to the hook. The hook is again Exactoscale and the screw coupling Masokit.
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
I've standardized on Smiths hooks precisely because they are over-scale. Might seem to be a lack of logic there but I like to use them with Dingham Auto Couplings and with a gentle bend here n there and the slightest file on the top a Dingham loop will slot over a Smiths hook without any bother. Adds flexibility here n there. I sometimes mount them a little forward than they should be for Dingham compatibility so visually they don't look perfect but for locomotives much better visually than a Dingham as you still get a 3/Screw Link look at least.
“He who dares not offend cannot be honest.” Thomas Paine
https://www.sparkshotcustomcreations.com/
Mostly 3D Printed Loco kits etc.
SCC Price list (7/4/22)
https://www.sparkshotcustomcreations.co ... e77d42.pdf
https://www.sparkshotcustomcreations.com/
Mostly 3D Printed Loco kits etc.
SCC Price list (7/4/22)
https://www.sparkshotcustomcreations.co ... e77d42.pdf
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
I've standardised on Smiths as well for the same reason that they are easy to use and easy to see. I've got many wagons built many years ago when my eyes were still focussing naturally close up with small 'scale' hooks - and I have difficulty these days using them. If the Smiths do look overscale they are still 'better' than any autocoupling but I would like to try Dinghams some time for the fact that they have a hook built in. I use home made links with a steel bottom one for magnetic 'hooking'.
Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
You could try scale ones...
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
billbedford wrote:You could try scale ones...
BWK0220.jpg
How strong/Brittle are these Bill? .... they look great
Tim Lee
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
Hello,
I wind my own around home made formers using coated copper jewelers wire. Not affected by uncoupling magnets and you can wind your links to whatever size your happy with. Using copper wire also makes crimping a working gedge flat quite simple. The hook is from Ambis.
P
I wind my own around home made formers using coated copper jewelers wire. Not affected by uncoupling magnets and you can wind your links to whatever size your happy with. Using copper wire also makes crimping a working gedge flat quite simple. The hook is from Ambis.
P
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
Le Corbusier wrote:How strong/Brittle are these Bill? .... they look great
So they do, as does the wagon, but presumably they are printed, and therefore rigid? If so they are not functional.
Regards
Noel
Noel
Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
Le Corbusier wrote:billbedford wrote:You could try scale ones...
BWK0220.jpg
How strong/Brittle are these Bill? .... they look great
There are more than strong enough in a straight line, but tend to be brittle if sideloaded.
They are available from Shapeways
Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
Noel wrote:Le Corbusier wrote:How strong/Brittle are these Bill? .... they look great
So they do, as does the wagon, but presumably they are printed, and therefore rigid? If so they are not functional.
They are printed, but they are articulated and so fully functional.
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
billbedford wrote:Le Corbusier wrote:billbedford wrote:You could try scale ones...
BWK0220.jpg
How strong/Brittle are these Bill? .... they look great
There are more than strong enough in a straight line, but tend to be brittle if sideloaded.
They are available from Shapeways
Do you have a recommendation as to minimum track radius to avoid side loading? .... at a smidge over £1 per pair they seem good value
Tim Lee
Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
Le Corbusier wrote:Do you have a recommendation as to minimum track radius to avoid side loading? .... at a smidge over £1 per pair they seem good value
No, I think that as long as you stock is on the track there will be no problem. The difficulty will come in a derailment or with heavy handling where you could get the stem of the coupling to break.
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
billbedford wrote:Le Corbusier wrote:Do you have a recommendation as to minimum track radius to avoid side loading? .... at a smidge over £1 per pair they seem good value
No, I think that as long as you stock is on the track there will be no problem. The difficulty will come in a derailment or with heavy handling where you could get the stem of the coupling to break.
Fine for me ... would be interested in feedback in due course on how well they go on a busy show layout.
Tim Lee
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
I've been trying to get a 3-link/instanter coupling that I can work with and have reached the conclusion that the Smiths hook is a reasonable pragmatic compromise in looks compared to usability.
I have been looking at re-stocking supplies and note that they now offer a "standard" and "fine" version of the 3 links/instanters. I don't recall this choice last time I bough them which suggests that I am using standard couplings. Does anyone have experience of the "fine" version and what are the practical limitations?
Thanks
Jeremy
I have been looking at re-stocking supplies and note that they now offer a "standard" and "fine" version of the 3 links/instanters. I don't recall this choice last time I bough them which suggests that I am using standard couplings. Does anyone have experience of the "fine" version and what are the practical limitations?
Thanks
Jeremy
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
Whether home made or otherwise, the one thing that can let so many couplings down is that the links are just bent up and left at that with a gap (no matter how small) that is normally glaringly obvious, worst still if the 2 ends don't align perfectly. A wee bit of tweaking, solder and a file/W&D plus just a few minutes effort can make all the difference.
Lindsay
Lindsay
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Re: Which 3-link coupling? Please show your favourites
Jeremy Good wrote:I've been trying to get a 3-link/instanter coupling that I can work with and have reached the conclusion that the Smiths hook is a reasonable pragmatic compromise in looks compared to usability.
That was my conclusion and I have standardised on Smiths for 3 link and instanter. They work well under exhibition conditions and enable coupling to be done effectively - eyesight permitting.
Jeremy Good wrote:I have been looking at re-stocking supplies and note that they now offer a "standard" and "fine" version of the 3 links/instanters
I was not aware of that but have not bought any for a ling time. It might be better not to mix both types.
Terry Bendall
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