Methfix transfers

smyles

Methfix transfers

Postby smyles » Sun Feb 12, 2017 10:04 pm

I have acquired a sheet of methfix transfers but there are no instructions as to how to use them.
Please give me some advice about what to do to get good results.
Thank you,
Mike

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Andy W
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Re: Methfix transfers

Postby Andy W » Sun Feb 12, 2017 11:46 pm

Use a solution of 3 parts meths to 1 water. With a scalpel carefully cut around the transfer from the side the images appear reversed. Only cut through the layer that carries the transfers, not the backing paper that supports it, so that you can then peel it away. Position it on the model and brush the meths mixture on. By wetting it the image should now be visible through the soaked tissue. Move it into position and when happy gently press the transfer down. Gently brush on more of the mixture until the tissue moves off. The transfer can be adjusted still, but once it's correctly positioned soak away the surplus liquid and give it a light brushing with a decal setting solution. HTH
Make Worcestershire great again.
Build a wall along the Herefordshire border and make them pay for it.

Strandline

Re: Methfix transfers

Postby Strandline » Sun Feb 12, 2017 11:56 pm

I am very new to this but from the method Andy suggests it sounds very like the method I have just watched on this YouTube video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne0fBH6zNkQ - the section 27:55 in. The only difference seems to be the meths mix instead of the liquid shown.

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Andy W
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Re: Methfix transfers

Postby Andy W » Tue Feb 14, 2017 10:09 pm

Mike, a quick footnote to my post. I've been using methfix today, and remembered that once you've soaked the transfer paper with the meths mix you can let it dry in position. Then if you brush just water on it the tissue should float off. The meths mix softens the glue but the water doesn't affect it - it just loosens the paper.
Make Worcestershire great again.
Build a wall along the Herefordshire border and make them pay for it.

dal-t
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Re: Methfix transfers

Postby dal-t » Wed Feb 15, 2017 9:13 am

For confirmation, here's a scan of methfix instructions:

methfix001.jpg
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David L-T

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David B
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Re: Methfix transfers

Postby David B » Wed Feb 15, 2017 9:23 am

The alternative type, Pressfix, eventually loses it's tackiness. Old Pressfix decals can then be applied as Methfix so do not need to be discarded.

martin goodall
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Re: Methfix transfers

Postby martin goodall » Wed Feb 15, 2017 1:34 pm

Just a few extra points.

First, if the transfer starts to lift after being located in the desired position, apply a little more of the meths/water solution, and press it down again.

I leave the transfer to dry, then (later) apply only enough pure water to damp the tissue, and then wait a few seconds until the softened tissue can be gently slid away from the transfer. If the transfer shows signs of lifting or moving, stop and apply more of the meths/water mixture, press it down again and wait for it to dry before trying again to remove the tissue.

When initially applying them, Methfix transfers can be moved around with a brush, or the tip of a pair of tweezers or even the tip of a scalpel blade in order to get the positioning just right (but don't use too much liquid when doing this). They will stand a certain amount of this sort of handling before they begin to break up. I have even 'repaired' torn transfers once or twice. It is only very rarely that it has all gone wrong, and I have had to remove and replace a damaged transfer.

After the transfer dries, there will usually be some residual gum on the surface either on or near the transfer. This can easily be removed by brushing with a limited amount of water (not enough to disturb the transfer) and then very gently dabbing it dry.

Patience and reasonable care should produce perfectly acceptable results, but it is certainly not a quick process.

Oh, just one other thing. If I am applying a wagon number such as, say, 102345, I first apply only 1 2 4, and then only when these digits are firmly fixed and dry do I then add the 0 3 and 5.

There are various other dodges for fitting transfers in awkward spaces (well, fudging it, actually), such as applying VENTLATED on the end of a van instead of VENTILATED.

Finally,if using Pressfix transfers, it is absolutely vital to wash all surplus gum off the transfers; otherwise they may curl up when drying out.

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Andy W
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Re: Methfix transfers

Postby Andy W » Wed Feb 15, 2017 3:31 pm

Good tips Martin. I've just applied some to a few coaches. They were both satin and gloss finishes. Both seem to have worked ok. Have others found they work on most surfaces?
Make Worcestershire great again.
Build a wall along the Herefordshire border and make them pay for it.

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Tim V
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Re: Methfix transfers

Postby Tim V » Wed Feb 15, 2017 4:05 pm

Transfers have a shelf life.

Apparently, the Methfix ones are longer, but they still have a limited life.
Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)

martin goodall
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Re: Methfix transfers

Postby martin goodall » Thu Feb 16, 2017 5:58 pm

Tim V wrote:Transfers have a shelf life.

Apparently, the Methfix ones are longer, but they still have a limited life.



In my experience, Methfix transfers have a virtually limitless shelf life.

Unused Pressfix transfers will dry out and lose their 'stick' over time, but as David has pointed out, they can be revived by treating them as though they were Methfix transfers.

allanferguson
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Re: Methfix transfers

Postby allanferguson » Thu Feb 16, 2017 6:37 pm

I have a large stock of HMRS / PC transfers, and I don't honestly know what kind they are. Some of them are very old. I treat them as Methfix, but using Carr's Transfix (other makes are available, but I haven't tried them). I've had no problems with them sticking, and some of them have been on for ten years. I don't always remember to put a coat of varnish on top, but it makes me feel better when I do!

Allan F


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