LSWR models Drummond 3500 gallon tender

[nberrington]

Hi all

I am currently modifying a "00 Models" Blackmotor to P4. A few challenges, as the beastie is made very much for 16.5mm.
One of the problems is the tender chassis, which is in fact quite nasty. As a substitute a have an old LSWR models kit bought on eBay. The chassis looks quite servicable for my needs.

Unfortunately I cannot make out quite how the springing arrangement/ hornblocks work. Perhaps one of you has made an LSWR Models tender and can assist, or perhaps even has the instructions.

My bail out plan is Bedford hornblocks, but it looks like the kit has the bits for springing or compensation.

[grovenor-2685]

Could you scan the fret, then maybe we could see how its meant to work.
Regards
Keith

[grovenor-2685]

OK Neil, here is the fret.

ScannedImage.jpg

Picture is added from the 'upload attachment' tab below the composition window, browse for the file, thhen add the file, then place inline.
In the absence of instructions what can we deduce about the designers intent?
Firstly it is compensated and the intention is to fix the front axle, marked 1 and 2 on the sideframes, shown by the lower top to the axle slot, the other two axles are then compensated using the levers marked as part 10.
The spacers are apparently intended to double the frame thickness at the bearings, and presumably fitting a set of six wires through the holes in the frames and spacers just above the axle slots will allow you to line it all up for soldering. With spacers fitted that way round getting the frames parallel requires the spacers to be folded to an accurate 90 degrees, so check them with a square.
The items marked 9 are probably to allow you to fix the front axle in place so it won't drop out, I would not use them.
Presumably there are some more brake parts on another fret somewhere as there doesn't seem to be anything to fit those brake shoes onto, unless each one is intended to hang from above on one of those item 11 thingies. If so then you need to drill both ends of the item 11s and the shoes for cross wires and locate an appropriate place on the frame to drill for the top ends.
You can print out the fret, stick it to some thin card and do a trial assembly with a pritt stick and some pins, lets you see how it all goes together.
Hope this helps.
Keith

[nberrington]

Hi Keith - completely brilliant. Thank you. I'll get to it!

[Philip Hall]

Hi Neil,

Whatever the intention of the designer was, I think it's far better to compensate the front two axles and support the back of the tender on the rear axle. Just move the compensation pivot. I then support the tender body on the chassis midway between the rear two axles on a .7mm or so wire soldered to the top of the frames, bearing on a ledge either side of the body. With a bit of weight in the body, resting on the back of the loco, it will add adhesive and balancing weight; 0-6-0s tend to be a bit nose heavy. It also means that all axles are firmly held down on the rails, and you can fit pickups to all wheels and be sure the wheels are going to revolve against them.

If, of course, you're going to spring it all, then all the above will not be for you!

Philip

[grovenor-2685]

Just move the compensation pivot.

Its not quite so simple as that as the chassis axle slots are etched for the fixed axle only at the one end, and its very helpful to have the holes for the compensator bar pivot etched for you.. But it may be even easier, since the wheelbase is symnetrical and the brake hanger holes have to be drilled anyway there seems no reason not to just reverse the whole inner subframe if its preferred to have the fixed axle at the rear. It looks as though you would just need to shorten the rear end of the frame to the same lengthh as the front.
And I would agree with Philip that that is a better way to go.
Keith

[nberrington]

So far... - still going with Keith's suggestion:
I knew I'd have a use for all thoe old Romford crankpins - great attachment for the compensation beams!
Still a little rough. I don't care too much for the bearing, but tried High levels, MJT, and they would just be too much work. (his is after all a "simple" conversion.
My Jidenco version is posted elsewhere.

[grovenor-2685]

Neil,
Compensation beams fitted at each side like that will not be fully effective as it makes a 4 point suspension not the intended 3 point suspension. It might work out OK depending on the quality of your track, if not put a cross shaft for the bearings and move both beams to the centreline. Looks like a good job though, if you just solder a bit of copper wire, telephone type onto one of the legs of each axle guide/bearing, then you can just bend it across the gap to hold the axles in.
Regards
Keith

[nberrington]

Taking the advice of the wise, some slight modifications to the chassis. Loco now nearing completion.
Quick plug - the GW quartering press is one of the greatest inventions ever - the quartering was spot on - with a satisfying click, the wheels are pressed onto the axles and quartered all in one. Smooth as anything.

Needs some decent coal in the bunker, a touch of paint here and there, light weathering and a decoder.

Thanks for the advice all.

Neil