Both my HORNBY 31 and BACHMANN 37 have a bit of a shiny finish straight out of the box . Does anyone know a way around this. Perhaps a respray is required.
Regards
CHRIS
BR BLUE
Re: BR BLUE
I wouldn't run anything straight out of the box without weathering which changes the whole look and sometimes the original colour of the loco.
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Re: BR BLUE
Shreds wrote:I wouldn't run anything straight out of the box without weathering
The thing is of course is just like everything else, weathering is a skill that needs to be practiced in order to achieve good results. I would not start on a brand new and expensive loco. The sensible thing is to get hold of a cheap secondhand loco or just a loco body and practice on that. There are books and videos that provide useful advice and look for demonstrations at exhibitions. The alternative is to pay someone to do the weathering for you but that will cost and you won't learn how to do it yourself.
A good way of toning things down is to use a brush to apply a thin wash of track colour which will lodge in the moulded detail and this will remove the shine. I don't yet consider myself sufficient proficient to do a good job on weathering diesels but after a lot of practice I am reasonable at wagons - see http://www.scalefour.org/scaleforum/201 ... _7223.html
Terry Bendall
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Re: BR BLUE
Hi Chris
I use this - http://totalwargamer.co.uk/army-painter ... 400ml.html
I then weather afterwards
HTH
Jim
I use this - http://totalwargamer.co.uk/army-painter ... 400ml.html
I then weather afterwards
HTH
Jim
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Re: BR BLUE
Testor's Dulcote is another one.
Someone did a comparison on YouTube with the Army Painter Jim refers to and came to the conclusion they were equally good but the Army Painter is cheaper.
Someone did a comparison on YouTube with the Army Painter Jim refers to and came to the conclusion they were equally good but the Army Painter is cheaper.
Re: BR BLUE
hi Jim
you seem to have understood what i,m getting at. I have just had a look at some photos of your class 31,s and that dull finish is just what i am looking for so i will give it a try. Thanks to everyone who as offered help.
Kind regards
Chris
you seem to have understood what i,m getting at. I have just had a look at some photos of your class 31,s and that dull finish is just what i am looking for so i will give it a try. Thanks to everyone who as offered help.
Kind regards
Chris
Re: BR BLUE
Hello
davidb just watched you tube video you refer to and i am impressed. It,s clear that at lot can be learnt from our wargaming friends.
Cheers
Chris
davidb just watched you tube video you refer to and i am impressed. It,s clear that at lot can be learnt from our wargaming friends.
Cheers
Chris
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Re: BR BLUE
Are there any worries about what this type of matt varnish can be used on top off?
acrylic paints? enamels? rub down transfers? all okay?
acrylic paints? enamels? rub down transfers? all okay?
Re: BR BLUE
Why not respray a satin varnish, and / or a mat varnish to contrast in relevant area's, even adding say a grey for dust etc .
Paint is shiny. Oil & spirit mixed, or modern synthetics.
Unless your in the rust bucket era, when paintwork was neglected and left to the toxins etc. to destroy its finish. Then it will retain a shine. Class 60's 66 etc i've seen have been immaculate. Even the blue 08 shunter at Brighton was kept in a pristine finish.
A retired guy kindly gave me depot book on BR diesels. Every pic within shows light reflecting off the paintwork, it varies, as some images where the sides, and roofing area contain an element of grime and exhaust emissions, but still shiny bits.
One pic is of a very clean & shiny Cl.31 emerging from the washer plant.
Steve.
Paint is shiny. Oil & spirit mixed, or modern synthetics.
Unless your in the rust bucket era, when paintwork was neglected and left to the toxins etc. to destroy its finish. Then it will retain a shine. Class 60's 66 etc i've seen have been immaculate. Even the blue 08 shunter at Brighton was kept in a pristine finish.
A retired guy kindly gave me depot book on BR diesels. Every pic within shows light reflecting off the paintwork, it varies, as some images where the sides, and roofing area contain an element of grime and exhaust emissions, but still shiny bits.
One pic is of a very clean & shiny Cl.31 emerging from the washer plant.
Steve.
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Re: BR BLUE
I've used army painter on enamels, JLTRT paints (which I believe are cellulose) and halfords (acrylics?) without problems.
I find that satin is too shiny for models in 4mm scale but I do add some gloss (klear floor polish) to models for bits that are oily. You need to keep it subtle so that you just catch a glint here and there.
HTH
Jim
I find that satin is too shiny for models in 4mm scale but I do add some gloss (klear floor polish) to models for bits that are oily. You need to keep it subtle so that you just catch a glint here and there.
HTH
Jim
Re: BR BLUE
Dear Jim
just sprayed my Class 31 with army painter matt finish and its just what I needed. Thanks for advice on this.
Chris Dales
just sprayed my Class 31 with army painter matt finish and its just what I needed. Thanks for advice on this.
Chris Dales
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Re: BR BLUE
Any information on how Army Painter varnish interacts with transfers?
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Re: BR BLUE
Ive been using it for a few years now and never had a problem
HTH
Jim
HTH
Jim
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