A Highland Miscellany

[grovenor-2685]

Here's a video of my first trial version, I'll need to take a new picture to show the production setup with the smaller servo.

Keith

[Mark Tatlow]

I also incorporated the servos into a signal over the break. There are several threads on RMweb and in MRJ (no 200) that have done this but I wanted to refine these a little by making them semi-permanent fittings.

The idea is that a mount is made (the copper clad in this case) that is permanently screwed to the baseboard and incorporates a hole just large enough to pass the servo through (for this servo this is 27 * 14mm) and then the baseplate (which is 28 * 15mm in size)to the signal is secured with some 10BA screws onto the mount. The signal can live on the layout (which means that neither its operation or the scenery around it get disturbed by repeated removal) but, if damage occurs or maintenance is required it can still be removed.

This is what is shown below, applied to a MacKenzie & Holland lattice signal, with a couple of shunt arms on it – a replica of one at Kyle that controlled the exit from the shed. The Highland were rather fond of these and they arguably over signalled (which given how frugal they otherwise were is a surprise!).

014compress.JPG

010compress.JPG

024less compress.JPG

I think that this has worked and is pretty tidy. It will get more complicated with signals that have a number of dolls/arms, but we will cross that bridge when we get there.

[Mark Tatlow]

Here's a video of my first trial version, I'll need to take a new picture to show the production setup with the smaller servo.
Keith

Yes conceptually, that is exactly the same as my mk 1 prototype but turned on its side. All I have done for mk 2 is turn the servo over so it takes up a lot less space.

[Mark Tatlow]

How do you think it would work with an Exactoscale turnout and plastic sleepers/chairs?

Terry Bendall

having mounted one to an Exactoscale turnout over the weekend, I can confirm it works without too much bother with these too. I did solder fairly quickly and had no problems with melting chairs. What I did find though is as the webs to the sleeper base have to cut where my rectangular section bars rub on the underside of the stockrail, the first few sleepers and chairs slip about (I took them off to solder). You just need to make sure they are correctly spaced when you put them back.

[Andy W]

Nice work Mark.

[Mark Tatlow]

A New Home for Portchullin....................

Modelling time has been in a premium for a bit; partly as a result of the layout's exhibition commitments, some to do with work but also because Portchullin is getting a new home!

Its present home is in the attic and as I live in an old house, this is accessed by a very tight staircase. Getting it home from an exhibition late on a Sunday night, possibly after a long drive and certainly a weekend standing on my feet was a chore. Therefore, after some considerable time of negotiating with the planning authorities (both the domestic ones and the councils) permission was granted for a 5.5m * 3.5m summer house. This is not quite large enough for Portchullin but it is only one of the fiddle yard boards that does not fit and by careful selection of the appropriate summer house, this can be set up through the entrance doors when required.

So here we are with the current efforts.............

100_1382compress.JPG

100_1383compress.JPG

As you can see, the fact that it has rained every day since the damn thing was delivered has not been missed. Don't worry, it will be roofed in by the end of next weekend so you can assume that the weather will be rubbish in East surrey until Monday, when it will turn fine again!

It will be a real boon getting the layout up in its entirity - if you keep your eyes on the quality model press in a few weeks, you will see that I have a lot to say about any silly b****r who builds a layout that is too big to set up in their home.................

[Mark Tatlow]

A Double Helping on the Miscellany Tonight............

In addition to my outdoor exertions, I have managed to do a little modelling. Indeed, I started something new (don't you just love starting things?).

Once again I went to Missenden for their Spring Modeller's Weekend - and very good it was too (again, it is well worth going if you are tempted). I managed to get another smoothly running chassis, which I consider a big win as I do not find making truely smooth running chassis easy. This is what it looks like so far:

100_1402compress.JPG

A slightly ugly duckling at this stage I am inclined to think? It will turn into, if not exactly a swan, at least a purposeful engine like this one:

IMGP0255compress.JPG

or if you would like to see a prototype picture; try here http://www.ambaile.o...id=51325&zoom=2

These were what tended to be called "Banking Tanks"; although their correct name is "39 Class" after the first of the class. They were designed for, and predominatly used to, bank trains up Drumochter - so both Aviemore and, particularly, Blair Atholl had a clutch each. Despite being slow moving brutes, the LMS classified them as passenger locos, so the old Highland men at Lochgorm painted them fully lined red. That is what I will be doing when the time comes.

This is the first locomotive that I have built using continious springy beams (CSBs). Once the dimensions were set up (and High Level do a neat jig for this), this was a breeze - I actually thought it was easier than either traditional springing or compensation. I still have some reservations about 4-4-0's/0-4-4's with CSBs (sorry Will!), but other than these I am sold.

[Will L]

[... I still have some reservations about 4-4-0's/0-4-4's with CSBs (sorry Will!)...

Its your loss. Mine works better than the compensated 4-4-0 that preceded it.

Will

[Mark Tatlow]

[... I still have some reservations about 4-4-0's/0-4-4's with CSBs (sorry Will!)...

Its your loss. Mine works better than the compensated 4-4-0 that preceded it.

Will

Oh I didn't say I wouldn't do it, just taking it one step at a time.

I can report that this six coupled chassis was really pretty easy and will be my standard approach going forward for similar.

[Mark Tatlow]

I have been provoked again to look at the water columns; which I had (and still do have) intentions to get some 3D prints done of.

Standard Water Column - Mark 4 Effort 3d.jpg

This is the “type 2” column – which is infact the most common one in use. There were however a number of subtle differences in the design – not just features such as the length of the spurge pipe but whether they were operated from a separate stanchion and wheel or whether they worked from a pull rod. Indeed I have also determined that they had slightly different shapes of the cap and, particularly, the flaring/fluting at the base.

My father speculates that the Highland had the columns delivered in different batches; probably from different manufacturers with the phrase "match the one at Dunkeld/Pitlochry" (or whatever station came into their mind). The manufacturers did so but not that well and the differences crept in by accident over the years. This sounds plausible to me!

[Mark Tatlow]

Following the creation of a running chassis at Missenden a couple of months back, my labours in creating a railway room (sorry, that should be "Summer House" in case the Mrs reads this!) have been put to one side for a while and I have gone back to the Banking tank.

The body is beginning to take shape and the majority of the substance of this has been completed but there is a lot of detail yet to do.

100_1456compress.JPG

I had thought the kit was pretty good (as in the parts fit together - remember most of the Highland's kits are from Jidenco............!!). However, I discover this complement should not be extended to the castings that came with the kit - they are utter rubbish and all but one is to be thrown away. I have managed to source a dome that is correct but otherwise, I will have to turn my own. now where is Terry's article on turning chimneys...........

100_1478compress.JPG

100_1481compress.JPG

However, that needs to wait for a week or two, as I have some signals to finish for someone.........

[Russ Elliott]

Oooh, err, what's that gearbox on the front axle, then?

[grovenor-2685]

Gearbox on the rear axle in the pics on my screen
excluding the bogie.
Keith

[Mike Garwood]

Mark

Looks splendid, but what are you going to do for the bogie? Masokits? Something from a Comet etch?

Mike

[Russ Elliott]

Whoops! (I thought I saw something in the first shot, but the sideview shot showed an empty space, hence my confusion.)

[Mark Tatlow]

As Keith noted, the rear coupled axle is the driven axle; via a High Level Roadrunner + gearbox. As it is quite a big tank, I can get a large motor - in this case a 14:30 Mashima. On Tim Watson's advice, I went for large motor rather than mid-size one and flywheel; albeit the motor will have a degree of fly wheel affect.

I had not really got my mind around the bogie but I did intend to spring it but I will probably only let it take a share of the weight, not a load equally balanced with the drivers. Given how big the tank is, I will be able to get a substantial amount of weight in the boiler and the tanks so I can weight it as a wish.

Mind you, I need to work out what the inside valve gear would have looked like. I am not proposing to do this as working valve gear but as Russ has ably spotted, there is a lot of air there and you ought be seeing what is there!

[Mark Tatlow]

A little progress has been made with the Banking Tank since my last post, but with Summer House building, other modelling distractions, holidays and the 'orrid work thing, not as much as I would have liked!

This is where we are at; the cab roof largely done, most of the backhead/cab interior done and provision for the sound speaker/rear of the bunker sorted.

DSC_0247compress3.JPG

DSC_0255compress2.JPG

DSC_0254compress2.JPG

I do now have a couple of days off work, so hopefully we will get some more progress to show before too long.

Nigel, we were talking about "stay alive capacitors" at Scaleforum. Can you expand a little here with a simple circuit diagram and sizes/ratings as I would like to have a bash at installing them as this loco is going to be about the most spacious I ever do so I really ought to take the excuse!

PS sorry about the picture quality, taking pictures of brass models on a varnished ply background has proved to be foolish!

[Mark Tatlow]

Adding a chimney and the rear bogie have totally transformed the rather ugly duckling! It even looks like the real thing now.............

I mentioned a while back that the castings for this kit were horrid, so I have had to steal the chimney from a Falcon Brass kit, which will leave me with a problem in the future, and the dome from Crownline (I think).

I have sprung the bogie, but not as a continuation of the CSB per say. It did clash with the main frames, so there has had to be be a bit of filing to get it to work neatly.

DSC_0260compress.JPG

DSC_0263compress.JPG

DSC_0265compress3.JPG

Next will be pick ups and a proper test run.

[Andy W]

Looking rather good, Mark.

[Mark Tatlow]

As a little diversion from the banking tank (the reason for will follow another day), I have been working on a Highland Jones era tri composite. These just lasted into the LMS era and a couple received LMS numbers but it is not thought any were repainted into red. Certainly the LMS were a little horrified by some of what they inherited from the Highland by way of coaching stock and a lot was withdrawn quite quickly; with other group company's stock being cascaded into the highland main line services, to allow the better Highland stock to be released for secondary working.

As it went out for a test run on the Kent Area Group's Eridge mk2 last night, the camera came out....

100_1920compress.JPG

These were called coupes on account of the end compartment only having one row of seats. The passengers could look out through the window at either the next vehical (and potentially the occupants of the next vehical if it too was coupe ended!) or the receding line. It is thought that when they were running next to the loco, the compartment was locked on safety grounds - exactly what is slightly defeating me!

100_1922compress.JPG

This has been built from a Lochgorm Models kit. It is a little unusual in that the footboards run the whole way down the length of the body (so the bogies swing between them). This area has proved to be very tight and a fair amount of filing of the axle springs and hangers was required to get the appropriate movement. Next time I will install the solebars and footsteps a bit further out to give more clearance.

The coupe ends were faceted and where this meets the draw bar, the lower panels swept out to meet them. This gave them their nick name of "chariot ends". This was formed through the flexing of a sheet of brass and was less difficult than I anticipated.

[Mark Tatlow]

Taking advantage of the Christmas break and the fact that my out laws live in Braunton so have decided not to strap an outboard motor to their car and come and visit, I have been a signalling. First up was the painting of twin arm lattice signal that I built earlier in the year (see 6 Jan post):

100_1951compress.JPG

100_1955compress.JPG

100_1957compress.JPG

The Highland's signals tend to look a little strange because they did not paint the spectical plates in black, but this is the right colour scheme - i have a fair few photos (and a Society Livery Register) to confirm this. It does look a little more normal when you put the spectical glazing in; not that I can find my packet of coloured film at the moment!

I have also made a couple of Mackenzie & Holland ground signals. These are pretty small and fiddly - only the lamp, post and small rectangular box will protrude above the baseboard. All the rest is a mount that will enable me to retract the signal out of the baseboard for maintenance etc. Thus this is about 18mm high only.

100_1940compress.JPG

It has a difficult movement to make operate properly. The lamp and the specitical plate rotates and the lever lifts - it took a bit of heath robinson like levers to both of these to work.

100_1932compress.JPG

I also made a test station for these signals. They all operate off the MERG servo4 module and this is visible in the base. It is connected to a 12v supply and some switches. Mine should be able to support the different types of bases that I am/propose to use.

But my real project for at least the first half of the Christmas break is a rather complicated three doll bracket signal. The Highland rarely put more than one arm on a doll, so they had a number of multidoll signal all balanced of the main post (gantries were rare too). I did not fancy the whitemetal finials as I am bound to bust them; so I have turned up some brass ones.

100_1946compress.JPG

100_1948compress.JPG

There is a lot to do on this, but this is where I am at:

As you can see, it is also very good for roastng marshmellows!

[DougN]

Looking really good there Mark. Are the bases to the signals home made or bought in? I ask as I have built some signals, (awaiting for a home eventually) and one day would like to connect them to some servo's. I am Ok for the controller as one of the local members here in melbourne retails packs of the controlers.

[Mark Tatlow]

Hi Doug,

They are my own concoction I am afraid, but pretty easy to make.

The concept is that there is a base which I make of paxolin that is to be permenantly attached to the layout baseboard. On top of this, there is then the base of the signal mount which is sized to 17.2 * 33.5mm and is constructed from 0.7mm thick brass sheet; with the signal post mounted 4mm inboard of one side and one end. Below this, there is then an angle of the same brass that is folded into an L shape and has one or more rebates (dependent on the number of arms you are looking to control) in it to take the servos.

A hole in the copper clad can then be made approximately 16.5mm by 32.5mm but with two of the corners not cut away so that they can form the points to mount retaining nuts. With a little care, you can slide the signal mount and the L shaped section that takes the servos through the hole - open it slightly if you can not.

The mount then sits on top of the paxolin and scrap 0.7mm brass sheet can be butted up to it on all four sides. Because this is done afterwards, this can be made to be a very snug fit and the joint should be all be invisible.

Hopefully the pictures below show this more articulately than my words can!

014compress.JPG

010compress.JPG

023compress.JPG

The ground signals are a little different; these too have a base that is permenantly attached to the baseboard but in this case the signal comes up from below. However, it is much the same concept beyond this.

I do not presently have any photos of the ground signals dissassembled, but will get the camera out tomorrow as long as the weather is not too mucky.

[Andy W]

Lovely stuff, Mark.

[DougN]

Thanks Mark. I like your method to keep all the servos and the signal perminantly connected. (less flaffing about to readjust each one each time. The Brass angle I can see as not too hard to manufacture as long as the screws fix ther servos properly all will be well. Ummm I think it is time for me to have a go at your method. It may take me about 6 months to get there though!

Thanks again