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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:06 am
by Flymo748
thomascpre wrote:I did not know Danny Pinnock was back in business. Is his catalogue online anywhere? Could not the Society do him a favour and put it online (the 4mm section at least)?

GER wagons were seen everywhere thus the interest of this GWR modeller. IIRC he does more than GER ones??

Hi Howard,

Dan is not back in business in 4mm really. What he is doing is filling a few orders as "private commissions" if he wants to, and he is batch producing certain kits and publicising those for people to place orders. The last selection was a series of five or six different GER/LNER/BR horse boxes.

I know that the list appeared on RMWeb. I wasn't particularly interested so I don't think that I cross-posted it here. The list is at though.

To answer the second part of your question, the *majority* of the kits remaining with Dan seem to be GER, as he sold off quite a few masters to other producers. I think that David Geen got some, and 51L, although that is just supposition from their ranges and I don't know as a fact.

He's partly kept the GE ones as that's his personal interest and he's making mutterings about building another 4mm layout :-)


Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:16 am
by John Bateson
A number of the DS kits of the Great Central persuasion were sold to the Great Central Railway Society who are re-introducing them mainly as benefits for their members.
I don't want to post the list without checking with them first but I will try to do this soon. I think the driving force behind this is also an S4Soc. member.

Re: Beer and Buckjumpers - Good Service Report

Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:19 am
by Flymo748
rule55 wrote:After a quick google I've ordered a new TC50 iron for my Antex 660 TC soldering station for £21.95+VAT from Rapid and I note that Antex list replacement elements for the TC50 for £28.41 so I'm not feeling too hard done by. A spare iron sounds like a plan for the future tho'.

I've been meaning to follow this up, as credit should be given where credit is due...

After this tip-off, I also ordered a new TC50 iron from Rapid. It turned up two days later, I plugged it in, and off we went again!

So excellent service, and at a price that was less than Squires wanted for just an element. I missed the "free postage on orders above £xx" thing as i was too quick to order it to do all the research but I view it that I got a bargain anyway. Very highly recommended. And yes, I've been using it in anger... More tonight, if I get time. There are Plans Afoot!


Beer and Buckjumpers - I can see clearly...

Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:00 am
by Flymo748
There - you'll have dire Seventies song lyrics buzzing around in your head for the next week... The reason for it is that I've finished the small project that I've been working on, and that I needed some brass countersunk screws for from Eileen's, which resulted in the spontaneous airbrush purchase at the St Albans exhibition.

As part of the Scalefour Society demonstration stand for exhibitions, we sometimes are asked about the need for suspension on models built to P4 standards. I'm not going to go into the reasons and circumstances why and where it may be necessary here, but there are three main options:

- rigid (i.e. drop-in wheelsets with no further work)
compensated (the traditional method using a rocking axle)
- sprung (using steel wire to allow the individual axlebox to move up and down)

So I've built three wagon chassis, to illustrate each possibility:

Perspex 001.jpg

As you'll clearly (sorry!) see, the "body" on which the suspension units are mounted are clear pieces of perspex, cut to the same size as a typical 10-ton wagon. This means that it is easier to see how the units are constructed, and also when used in practice on a demo piece of track.

The one on the left is sprung using Bill Bedford units, the one on the right has a Scalefour Society rocking unit, and the one at the rear is rigid, using Scalefour Society units but folded up to sit on the chassis without movement.

Of course, no matter what suspension method is used, it is critical that the axles are absolutely parallel with each other. That is why it is sitting in a Brassmasters chassis gauge, which sets the final adjustment into alignment at the chosen wheelbase. It's a tool that I certainly would not now be without in building reliably running wagons. It's usable for any 4mm gauge as well - not just P4. The final glueing of the suspension units with a spot of superglue to hold them on place is the reason why it is being used.

So there you have it. Hopefully something that will de-mystify P4 in one more aspect for those that are curious, and also a useful way of checking the reliability of my own track by watching the suspension work as the wagon is pushed along it.

Beer and Buckjumpers - Beware the Russan!

Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:47 am
by Flymo748
If this was a James Bond script, you'd think that there was a missing "i" in there somewhere...

But in actual fact, it is nothing more than a reference to the amiable proprietor of Eileen's Emporium, Derek Russan. Now Eileen's has become the "one-stop" for me for tools, materials and general bits and bobs. However going to see Derek has its dangers...

I was glad that he was at the St Albans show, as I needed the pin-chuck adapter that had been suggested by Terry Bendall for my pillar drill, and a couple of packets of 14BA brass countersunk bolts for a small project that I'll be able to finish now. A few quid's worth, and nothing more.

So how on earth did I wind up walking out with a new airbrush compressor?

Well, it's down to Derek's superb salesmanship, a demonstration of how much quieter his new compressors are than my existing 15 year old "thumper", and a very tempting price :-)

So thank you Derek, it looks like a superb piece of kit, and I'm very much looking forward to trying it in anger.


Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:37 am
by Flymo748
Chris Mitton wrote:First, belated thanks for your J15 / Y14 blog. I recently suffered a short spell in a cardiac ward, and came out to find your pics - and decided it was time to stop procrastinating and get my Gibson J15 and E4 off the shelf and start work, otherwise I'd end up running them on the Great Layout In The Sky - which I don't want to do, at least not yet..... So the E4 (you'd probably call it a T26!) is under way at last.

Hi Chris,

Glad to hear that the ramblings have inspired you! Sometimes , when work is a bit manic and I don't get any free time, I look at the dates of the entries and realise that I haven't done anything for three or four weeks. Sometimes the inspiration is all I need to get going again.

As you've started on your E4 build, why not start a thread of your own about it? It doesn't have to be a comprehensive blow by blow account, but a few words and a couple of photos from a digital camera can do a great job in sharing the good/bad/impossible of any modelling project. I'd certainly enjoy reading it, and learning from it, as I have two of the E4 kits to build in the near future.

Chris Mitton wrote:Like you, I've decided that CSB is the way to go and the High Level kit is the way to do it. Did you sort your problem re the tender hornblocks being too small for the cutouts?

In all honesty, I haven't picked the Y14 up again since. On the modelling front I've been finishing off the three wagon chassis that I've just posted about, and I've also done a bit more work on the Pug chassis. Having seen those rather neat coil spring designs by (I think...) Morgan Gilbert elsewhere on the Forum, I've ripped the old ones off and fitted coils instead. I've yet to connect up the motor, but they do seem *much* neater than my previous wipers.

Chris Mitton wrote:I rang High Level this week and asked him what would be his solution - he told me that he can supply the "standard" 1/8" blocks with a 2mm bore (although it's not an option on his website). As that was my theoretical solution, that's what I've ordered. That means the only really tricky bit of the CSB (apart from getting the weight distribution right) will be accurately extending the carriers for the leading axle. However, the "spacesaver" blocks are still "coming soon".

Well, as the tender doesn't have to have coupling rods or other forms of mechanical chicanery underneath it, I think that I'll stick with the approach of using old Perseverance bearings. I'll be sure to post about how I get on!

Chris Mitton wrote:However, I don't think I need the narrow blocks. I've got a High Level gearbox, that the invoice swears blind is a RoadRunner Plus, for another loco (it looks much narrower than yours in the photo, though?). Having assembled the E4 frames, spacers and footplate (mostly with Blutack as yet!), I've convinced myself that I can get a Road Runner (but not a Road Runner Plus) between the axleboxes. The spacers are 15.18 mm wide, which with 18thou frames gives a gnat's whisker over 16mm frame width, and according to my maths leaves just enough sideplay to get through a B6 turnout (I've decided to treat the E4, suspension-wise, as a 0-6-0). The J15 (which appears to come from much older artwork) is a horse of a different colour, though - the allegedly P4 frame spacers supplied, which also serve for EM (!), are only about 13.8 wide. I think I'll adapt some from Jeremy's Stores, which are as near as dammit 15 mm. wide. Thanks for the warning!

I'll look forward to hearing how it goes together in practice. Your approach sounds good.

Chris Mitton wrote:I was also fascinated by your (and Will's) musings on GER stations (threatening to turn this thread into a GER love-in, and why not?) - especially Wells-Next-The-Sea. My own layout, being built painfully slowly, is based on Framlingham (but relocated to the Fens so it can be GE and GN Joint, for the usual personal history reason!).

It's *our* modelling, so why not relocate it? I'd always aim to produce something that is enjoyable and representative, whilst following prototype practice, rather than perfectly reproduced but dull and tedious. The former approach is the way of Pendon, after all...

Chris Mitton wrote:Has anyone thought of Halstead? Not strictly GER - the Colne Valley and Halstead stayed aloof until LNER days - but IIRC as the headquarters of a small independent railway it had everything, up to and including a loco works, crammed into a relatively compact site.

Hmmm... I hadn't thought of that. A quick check of my library shows that I have almost no reference to it either. The top photo here shows that it looks like a busy little place.

Perhaps with some further research... I wonder if it ever had a brewery ;-)


Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:31 pm
by David Thorpe
Flymo748 wrote:Perhaps with some further research... I wonder if it ever had a brewery ;-)

Of course it did - two, in fact. Adams Brewery and G.E Cook & Sons. Both, sadly, now closed, so research at once loses some of its appeal. :(


Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:38 pm
by dcockling
I can remember Cooks of Halstead, but I never managed to taste their wares as their brewery closed down around the time I discovered real ale.

If I remember correctly they had no pubs, just off licences.

All the Best

Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:00 am
by Clive Impey
A note of caution for all of you building J15s. Check the buffer centres on the tender buffer beam which on all my AG kits is only 20mm instead of 22.7mm, a diference which could cause buffer locking. I just made a new buffer beams.
The tender etch for the AG E4 was correct.

Clive Lincs

Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 10:03 pm
by Flymo748
CliveLincs wrote:A note of caution for all of you building J15s. Check the buffer centres on the tender buffer beam which on all my AG kits is only 20mm instead of 22.7mm, a diference which could cause buffer locking. I just made a new buffer beams.
The tender etch for the AG E4 was correct.

Thanks for the reminder Clive. That is one of the points that are mentioned in the MRJ article on building the AG kit. It is included (with Wild Swan's permission) with the instruction set in the new kits.

It never hurts to have a reminder though, and yes, I do need to fret out a new buffer beam for my Y14. It has been sadly sidelined for the last couple of weeks whilst I've been doing other modelling, but a couple of days ago I had my pack of gearboxes arrive from Chris at High Level, so i should be able to resume progress with motorising it again soon.


Beer and Buckjumpers - Modelling heaven...

Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 8:12 pm
by Flymo748
After a few weeks of not doing any modelling at all, and nothing but a bit of shuffling around of bits on my Y14, to get the gearbox run in, I have 48 hours of modelling heaven :-)

It's the Missenden Railway modelling weekend, with assorted luminaries dispensing wisdom, and me, bodging a GER Tram locomotive with the best of them!

More to follow, if I get the time to put my soldering iron down :-)


Beer and Buckjumpers - old furniture and new vices

Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 7:04 am
by Flymo748
I haven't had much chance to spend time online since enjoying the Modeller's Weekend at Missenden. I didn't actually post from there as it seemed much more important to actually get some modelling done :-)

The last couple of weeks have been very busy with work, and other matters, but I have been doing more modelling in the background. One of the things that I learned at Missenden was that my toolkit was deficient. Those who saw me unpack, and produce all manner of oddments on request throughout the weekend may find that hard to believe but it's true.

One of the things that helps Tim Watson, our group tutor, produce such superb 2mm scale models is that he has a precision to his metal work that borders on that of a watchmaker. A lot of this, such as filing is done using a vice to hold the workpiece. In contrast, I just use the edge of the bench, or hold it in my fingers.

So when he suggested that a proper jewellers' vice would help enormously, then I saw the common sense in it. Tim advised not to waste money on a cheap one from one of the tool suppliers that you get at exhibitions, but to invest in a proper one from a watchmaker's suppliers like Shesto.

On returning from Missenden, I searched for the type that he recommended, and a few other bits and pieces that I needed, and ordered them online from Shesto. Fortunately, as a Scalefour Society member, I get a 10% discount on everything ordered from Shesto, so I've already saved nearly half of my annual Society subscription. Which is nice :-)

When the package arrived, i had a good look at the vice, which is a lovely engineered piece of work, and also demountable via a clamp and lever from its base. I decided to place it on the right hand edge of my bureau cum workbench, where it will be easy to use. Having it able to be removed means that I can take it off and still close the lid to turn the workbench into a normal piece of furniture again.

I marked out the boundary of the base, to be inset into the timber, and attacked it with a couple of chisels...

Vice 002.jpg

That is the base of the vice at the top of the picture, being checked for size. I took a bit of care to get the hole nicely trimmed to fit tightly, and ensure that the bottom surface was smooth. I raided my stock of screws in the garage for some cabinet-makers screws that would fit flush - my last ones, so I must remember to get a further stock - and then cleaned everything up and tried it for size:

Vice 005.jpg

The result is a total success. Sturdily mounted, and able to be tidied away. I haven't tried it in anger yet, but I'm sure that I will soon..


Beer and Buckjumpers - making a stand

Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 8:30 am
by Flymo748
That's what I'll be doing later today...

First thing this morning I decided to get out the airbrush and put a coat of self etch primer on the chassis of my Y14. So I set up the spray booth, turntable, mixed the primer, loaded the airbrush...

And promptly fired the chassis to the back of the booth! Ho hum...

A _gentle_ application of primer seems to have done the trick, but I really should knock something properly designed for the task. I'll dig out a couple of offcuts of timber from the garage and see what I can do with some bent coathangers.

For now, I'm off to take the motorbike out for some background photos of research for restoring Ulpha Light.


Beer and Buckjumpers - ready for the finish

Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 8:44 pm
by Flymo748
Well, the weather is perfect for gardening, or DIY, or painting small L&Y locomotives...

So having run the Pug successfully at the North London Group meeting last Monday night, it is a good time to fire up the airbrush and put a livery on it. However, before I do that, I thought that I'd post a couple of pictures of the finished work from the High Level Kits chassis and conversion kit. I really can't recommend this too highly for its level of detail and precision of assembly.

First of all, showing the cab detail. All of this is new in the kit, and replaces the motor in the Dapol original!

ready 003.jpg

And the other side. The lettering has been rubbed down with a glassfibre brush to help avoid it showing through the top-coat when it is put on. More of that when the painting is underway...

ready 004.jpg

The final task before painting will be to mask as much of the wheels as possible, to avoid gumming up the mechanics. Let's hope that I'm successful in it :-)


Beer and Buckjumpers - it's a bit bright!

Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 5:32 am
by Flymo748
But nothing that a bit of weathering won't tone down.

As this Pug is now transformed for industrial use, then I don't need to slavishly follow a prototype livery. Which is some respects is a shame, as I was quite looking forward to seeing it in L&Y black with red lining. However I do have a second High Level chassis kit in the drawer, and a spare body, so I can always do that in the future...

This is the base coat - a Humbrol medium red - sprayed on over the black original livery. I took it carefully to build up the colour in thin layers without runs or other blemishes.

Various 008.jpg

You see what I mean about bright! The masking will cover off most of the motion and wheels so that I don't have to clean them off to a great extent.

Various 009.jpg

The next tasks will be the footplate/chimney/etc in black, and then on with the black panels around the red, and finally into some very fine orange lines, complete with reversed corners. There's nothing like a challenge!


Beer and Buckjumpers - yuck!

Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 10:10 am
by Flymo748
Hmmm... You think that you've got your airbrush clean, and then...

After the last bout of use (see previous post on painting the Pug) I thought that I'd cleaned my airbrush out fairly well. However the action of the trigger was still a little "sticky" so I thought that it merited a little more attention if I was going to get decent results next time that I wanted to use it.

So an old jam jar that is surplus from my wife's stockpile (she funds her sidecar racing by selling homemade jam - just don't ask...) and drop all the bits in it. Fill up with cellulose thinners and give a good shake.

The thinners is now a dirty dark yellow colour, and the parts clearly still aren't entirely clean. I'll give them a good going over with cotton buds in a while.


But it's surprised me how much paint has built up inside and still hadn't come out through "normal" cleaning. I think that I'll be doing this more frequently in future...


Re: Beer and Buckjumpers - yuck!

Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 6:10 pm
by Will L
Flymo748 wrote:...But it's surprised me how much paint has built up inside and still hadn't come out through "normal" cleaning. I think that I'll be doing this more frequently in future...

Not between colours then?


Re: Beer and Buckjumpers - yuck!

Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 7:09 pm
by Flymo748
Will L wrote:
Flymo748 wrote:...But it's surprised me how much paint has built up inside and still hadn't come out through "normal" cleaning. I think that I'll be doing this more frequently in future...

Not between colours then?

No, because I tend to be a patient so and so, and not go straight from one colour to another.

So the residual paint that hasn't come out with the thinners shot through to clean (sic) it will dry off and harden. It's only giving it the good soaking in the cellulose that has loosened it all up.


Beer and Buckjumpers - useful little tools

Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 7:03 am
by Flymo748
Following up the suggestion of "Liquid Reamer" that was made by Buckjumper (over on my blog) to help keep my old and neglected airbrush clean, I wandered along to chat with Derek Russan at Eileen's Emporium whilst I was at Railex this weekend.

Derek does stock Liquid Reamer :-)

But he'd just sold out :-(

It must be the power of suggestion from the web ;-)

However what he did have (and I think have recently come into stock, as I don't recall seeing them before) are a set of tiny brushes, that are perfect for cleaning out paint bowls and nozzles on an airbrush:

Airbrush brushes.jpg

At only £3.50 for the set, they seemed like an absolute steal. But that would be a bit rude, so I bought a set instead. If I get some more modelling done on this Bank Holiday, they may well be getting a good usage later this week.


Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 7:06 am
by DougN
Oh that looks like a good idea must put them on my shopping list for S4um... :) I don't think I can get the liquid reamer though through customs this end!

Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 12:32 pm
by Will L
Alternatively there are Interdent Brushes available from your chemist, dentist of from numerous on line stockists such as this

I stole the one I use on my airbrush from my wife but may be required to buy my on if/when it wears out.


Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 3:01 pm
by Stephen F
Hi Flymo,

Which airbrush/compressor set did you get from Eileens?
If you said and I missed it, beg pardon...

Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 7:08 am
by Flymo748
Stephen F wrote:Hi Flymo,

Which airbrush/compressor set did you get from Eileens?
If you said and I missed it, beg pardon...

Hi Stephen,

I didn't get the combined airbrush/compressor set that Derek offers, as I already have an old, but very nice, Badger 150.

The compressor is the model AS186, oiless piston type, and very nice and quiet it is too :-)


Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 9:23 pm
by Stephen F
Flymo said
Hi Stephen,

I didn't get the combined airbrush/compressor set that Derek offers, as I already have an old, but very nice, Badger 150.

The compressor is the model AS186, oiless piston type, and very nice and quiet it is too

Righto, thanks. I've been thinking about something like that for a while, and will sort one out soon.

Beer and Buckjumpers - picking things up again...

Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 9:02 am
by Flymo748
It's been a while since I've made a post on Beer and Buckjumpers. For that matter, it's been a while since I've had chance to do any proper modelling. In the meantime we've decorated our study, and one of the spare rooms at home, so I can't really say that I've been idle.

However this morning I had some peaceful time, and the opportunity to pick up a smaller paintbrush. I'm pleased to have been able to make some progress towards finishing the Pug. I was very pleased that it ran successfully on the Pampisford test day back in June (full story here: although its appearance in the rather bright basecoat probably scared the horses!


So this morning I donned the white cotton gloves, and picked up (very well shaken) black paint and a size 1 paintbrush, and started. I definitely needed the first strong coffee of the day to steady my hand, but the knack soon returned, and I've made a start at blocking in the colours.

Pug paint 1.jpg

What I'm aiming for is the picture in the background... Much weathering to be added after the initial painting is done! I've cried off the panelling and reverse corners on the cab for the moment, but they will probably be done next, when I have a little better light - although I see that the sun has just come out :-)

I've also noticed that I've forgotten to add a replacement smokebox door handle. The original moulded plastic one was carved off. I'll leave that for the moment, and hopefully remember to put a new turned brass one on when the majority of the painting is completed.