Terry Bendall wrote: It was however 60 years old so I have had good value.
That's the problem with a lot of manufactured things these days, they just don't last like they used to!
Terry Bendall wrote: It was however 60 years old so I have had good value.
Serjt-Dave wrote:Oh dear indeed Paul. Look on the bright side. At least there were no flames!
I hope you get your issue sorted.
Paul Willis wrote:The problem was this wire here, which had flexed too much and fractured.
Terry Bendall wrote:Paul Willis wrote:The problem was this wire here, which had flexed too much and fractured.
The solution is to make up some sort of clamp to hold the mains cable so that it does not flex. Possible ways of doing this are to:
(a) use the flex clamping strip from a standard 13 amp plug held in place with two small nuts and bolts. If I have a broken plug I usually save the clamp strip for just such jobs.
(b) use a strip of metal in the same way but round off the edges so that it does not cut into the cable covering.
(c) use a strip of suitable plastic to do the same job.
(d) find a plastic cable clip of an appropriate size - the type used to hold cable to a wall or similar. Remove the masonry nail and drill out the hole to take a small bolt.
In Paul's example the size of the box means that there is not a lot of room to do this. Using some tubular spaces to space the transformer away from the side of the box might work. Alternatively use the spacers but bring the mains lead in from the side. Another alternative would be to bend the cable outside of the box and put the clamp on the outside.
Will L wrote:I couldn't help wondering, as your transform bolts through your case (which is presumably plastic?) with the blots showing outside, shouldn't you you be earthing the transformer frame, as well as making sure the mains lead is securely clamped?
Paul Willis wrote:David Thorpe wrote:Flymo748 wrote:In a sign that the last couple of years saw a fall off in the attention I paid to my own modelling, I have no idea where I put the post-it notes that I made when I was carrying out the experiment. I'll have a hunt for it and see if I can find the details to post.
Don't go to any such trouble, Paul. The facts that you haven't tried it again and haven't used it on a loco build (although I thought that was what you were using it on!) suggest that it wasn't all that successful.
DT
What I did was use a scrap axle and wheel to apply successive coats of lacquer to, building up conductivity. I measured the resistance between the tyre and axle after leaving each application to dry. The result was that after six or eight coats or so - I need to find my notes - the resistance was at a low level, and stopped decreasing further. So I reckon that the idea works.
nigelcliffe wrote:One, untested, thought on the silver conductive paint is to use it as a base for subsequent electro-plating.
So, paint first then some time in a plating tank to create a metal layer between rim and axle.
- Nigel
Paul Willis wrote:nigelcliffe wrote:One, untested, thought on the silver conductive paint is to use it as a base for subsequent electro-plating.
So, paint first then some time in a plating tank to create a metal layer between rim and axle.
- Nigel
Typical inventive thinking from you Nigel
However, practicality strikes... I have neither the knowledge nor the equipment for electroplating. So I suspect that could very easily become another rabbit hole that I could fall down.
....
nigelcliffe wrote:One, untested, thought on the silver conductive paint is to use it as a base for subsequent electro-plating.
So, paint first then some time in a plating tank to create a metal layer between rim and axle.
- Nigel
Paul Willis wrote:One other thing that needed doing at this point were the coupling rods. My usual way of doing these is to mount them on cocktail sticks stuck into foam. In this case, it's my homemade loco cradle that does the holding. And then they are also sprayed.
After spraying, the primer was left to harden for a good few days...
Paul Willis wrote:And this was the result. The body colour was in cellulose, the smokebox was first covered in matt black enamel, as was the cab front, then a finishing layer of LifeColor "Burned Black". This gave a lovely base for weathering later in the process.
Winander wrote:Paul Willis wrote:And this was the result. The body colour was in cellulose, the smokebox was first covered in matt black enamel, as was the cab front, then a finishing layer of LifeColor "Burned Black". This gave a lovely base for weathering later in the process.
Where, did you miss an image? IIRC from decades ago, cellulose will not go on top of many other paints. Conversely other paints will go over cellulose, but you said the smokebox was done first. Does cellulose go on top of enamels?
David Knight wrote:I discovered a cheap trick when trying to make sure my stirrer didn’t spray me and the room. Take the core from a finished roll of toilet paper and place it over the tin. Grip the tin at the bottom of the tube. Problem solved.
HTH,
David
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