Beer and Buckjumpers

David Knight
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Postby David Knight » Sun Apr 08, 2012 1:58 pm

Flymo,

I found that it was possible to get thin strips of lead tucked into the pockets on either side of the tank and then secured them with super glue. The dimensions of the strips were, IIRC, 30 mm x 2mm x 1 mm. This would have been much easier had I done it before fitting the tank sides :oops: but it still worked.

Cheers,

David

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Andy W
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Postby Andy W » Sun Apr 08, 2012 4:54 pm

Looking good Mr Flymo.
Make Worcestershire great again.
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DougN
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Postby DougN » Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:21 am

Interesting that I have not added any weight to the little Black hawthorn. I will how ever put a DCC Chip in the tank. I just wonder if it really makes that much difference to the running. I say that as mine runs beautifully... well others have said that to me!

Paul are you going to compensate the front axle?
Doug
Still not doing enough modelling

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Will L
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Postby Will L » Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:47 am

DougN wrote:Interesting that I have not added any weight to the little Black hawthorn. I will how ever put a DCC Chip in the tank. I just wonder if it really makes that much difference to the running. I say that as mine runs beautifully... well others have said that to me!

Paul are you going to compensate the front axle?


That's as it should be Doug

The only aspect of running that is best improved by simply adding weight is pulling power, for anything else time is better spent sorting out the chassis. If your little Black hawthorn, as it comes, pulls all it needs to pull then there is no need to add weight. If my coffee-pot is to run anywhere, it will be in a place where there are real gradients, and the locals believe in wagons with a bit of weight.

As to compensating the front axle, I wouldn't want to run any 0-4-0 with no suspension, electrical contact as already the most likely cause of problems, so you want to be sure all 4 wheels stay in contact with the track on all occasions. Despite Mr. HighLevel's instructions making the point that there is very little room for springing in there, mostly as there is very little leeway for the motor to move within the body and it may effectively prevent any suspension movement, I did actively consider CSBs. The front axle is in cut down high level horn blocks, but getting axle block, horn guides and CSB wire in between the gearbox and the frame side on the rear axle, was going to be tough. So in the end I chickened out and the rear axle is, regretfully, rigid. The CSB spring is still in place on the front axle, though I'm not sure its doing anything useful, as I used the compensation pivot over the front axle to maintain the correct buffer hight.

Will

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Flymo748
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Postby Flymo748 » Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:21 pm

DougN wrote:Interesting that I have not added any weight to the little Black hawthorn. I will how ever put a DCC Chip in the tank. I just wonder if it really makes that much difference to the running. I say that as mine runs beautifully... well others have said that to me!

Paul are you going to compensate the front axle?

Hi Doug,

Yes, the chassis has been built including compensation as designed. As I was building the kit in the Missenden chassis building workshop, I had started on that rather than the body first as suggested in the kit instructions. I was going along quite well until I got to the point where it said "check against the body" - and that was the part that I hadn't built yet!

I was thinking of springing, but it's all a bit too much to fit in with confidence, and has as been said, I don't know how much room there would be for the springing to go up and down.

Cheers
Flymo
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Flymo748
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Beer and Buckjumpers - lamps for Ben

Postby Flymo748 » Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:45 am

See post in Guest Book :-)

Lamps 003 (Large).jpg


Cheers
Flymo
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Flymo748
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Beer and Buckjumpers - watchmakers' work

Postby Flymo748 » Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:09 pm

One of the things that I really love about High Level Kits is that they are such fiddly things to build. Not difficult, certainly not badly designed, but containing such a level of detail that it really pushes the boundaries of your skill levels to do the job properly.

Getting some modelling done this weekend was like that. After a long and tough week at work, which meant that I wasn't able to join friends in either Hay on Wye or Wakefield for the weekend, for various other reasons as well, I determined that last night was going to involve some modelling.

The next thing on my list of instructions (I'm on page 7 out of 18, and this is for a kit that is under 8cm long!) was to fit the clips that hold (what I think are) the sandbox operating rods. These clips go under the saddle tank, and are soldered to it. Here are a couple of pictures of the work completed:

Clips 005.jpg


Clips 004.jpg


They are each made from a single small piece of etched brass, soldered in place and then bent over to form a clip. However to give you some idea of the size of the part, and the level of detail that is built into these kits, when you bend the half-etched part of the clip over, to ensure that it takes the correct shape you use a piece of 0.4mm wire as a former!

After this, there were a couple more brackets to be fitted to the front of the tank, and a couple of valves to be mounted on those, and it was finally fitted in place and soldered to the bunkers and smokebox. And as you would expect from everything that this kit has been so far, it fitted together perfectly...

Body 001.jpg


Body 002.jpg


A quick wash down with lashings of ginger beer, or rather Carrs Acidip, and a trip through the ultrasonic tank to clean it up, and it was looking lovely :-)

Cheers
Flymo
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Dave K
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers - watchmakers' work

Postby Dave K » Tue Apr 24, 2012 5:28 am

Flymo748 wrote:A quick wash down with lashings of ginger beer, or rather Carrs Acidip, and a trip through the ultrasonic tank to clean it up, and it was looking lovely.

Do you add anything to the water in the ultrasonic tank or do you use plain warm water.

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Flymo748
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers - watchmakers' work

Postby Flymo748 » Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:12 am

dave k wrote:
Flymo748 wrote:A quick wash down with lashings of ginger beer, or rather Carrs Acidip, and a trip through the ultrasonic tank to clean it up, and it was looking lovely.

Do you add anything to the water in the ultrasonic tank or do you use plain warm water.

Hi Dave,

Just plain water - although I have already given the entire kit a good sloshing in Acidip and left it for five minutes to bubble away and do its work on any flux residues or similar.

HTH
Flymo
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Flymo748
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Beer and Buckjumpers - Saturday session

Postby Flymo748 » Tue May 01, 2012 4:34 am

The non-stop rain in Hertfordshire meant that I was largely confined to home this weekend, apart from a spell in the garage to continue painting the floor, and a spin on the SS up to the garage where my car is, as I had to choose the colour of new carpets to go in it.

So on Saturday I had the opportunity to do a little more work on the Coffee Pot. And what a joy it was, as the design quality of the kit showed itself again. Below are a few pictures showing what I mean:

Saturday 002.jpg
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To make fixing the cab handrails easy, Chris has designed in a cross-brace that goes across the entire cab opening. This means that there aren't tabs or flaps that can get bent earlier in construction, and the whole thing strengthens the cab whilst it is being assembled.

You then insert 0.4mm wire through holes at the lower end, and then solder it to the cross-brace. As you can see, cutting the wire overlength, and then soldering it (messily but strongly) on the side away from the cab means that it is securely fixed.

Saturday 004.jpg
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And this is the end result. I'd already done the other side of the cab. The cross-brace was first snipped in the middle with my best Xuron sidecutters, and then the remains of the cross-brace trimmed back. The final touch was a few strokes with a fine needle file to round off the edges. Looking at it in close-up, this one isn't quite perfect, as the rear rail comes in slightly at the end. I always forget to use things like scraps of wood to set handrail depths so that they are absolutely parallel :-/

Saturday 006.jpg
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Next steps involve the buffer beams. These are cast whitemetal, which has three benefits. Firstly, it adds weight in a really useful place on the model. Secondly, it allows for the proper prototype construction of steel-timber-steel to be replicated.

Saturday 007.jpg
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And thirdly, it allows for some really crisp rivet detail to be incorporated. This just wouldn't be as fine if the whole buffer beam was a single casting. Just have a look at the detailing that is on the _rear_ of the bufferbeam. This would hardly be noticed when the model is completed, and yet it is there...

Saturday 009.jpg
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Then it was time to put on the outward facing overlays to the castings. To do this, and make sure that they were in exactly the right place, I pre-tinned the etched brass and and held it in place using miniature clothes pegs.

Saturday 010.jpg
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From a sightly different angle you can see how the sandwich construction of the bufferbeam is faithfully reproduced. With the etching held securely in place, all that I had to do was to place a drop of flux at the edge and flash some low melt solder around it to fix it firmly in place.

Saturday 011.jpg
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This was helped by being able to stand the model vertically in my foam cradle, which grips it just firmly enough to be used as a "third hand" and unlike a vice means that there is no risk of accidentally damaging it by crushing the model.

Finally, the cast whitemetal dumb buffers were fitted, which gives more useful weight, and the whole thing was given a comprehensive clean to remove the excess flux.

I'm really pleased with the session's work. Next, it's on to the boiler and tank fittings...

Flymo
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Flymo748
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Beer and Buckjumpers - chequebook modelling...

Postby Flymo748 » Sat Sep 01, 2012 7:34 am

That's a phrase that I dislike.

Personally, the whole reason that I do railway modelling is to create something. The enjoyment is in the making, and not the purchasing (although a look at my stock of unmade kits may suggest otherwise).

However when I look back and realise that the last entry on this blog was four months ago, I realised that (1) I needed to find more free time to pick up a soldering iron or paintbrush, and (2) that the only modelling that I had done in that time was of the chequebook variety.

Waving a debit card at the RailWells show in August saw me come back home with one of these:

http://www.ztccontrols.co.uk/controller.htm

I have read many of the pros and cons of the ZTC 511 controller. In particular, both Tim Venton and Gordon Ashton spent much time actually showing me the way that it is used, and I thank both of them enormously.

Finally, it came down to feel. This is a tactile system to use. It gets me away from the computer style of interface that I have to deal with all day. To me, it looks "right".

So the next steps will be to get one of my locomotives that is under construction "chipped up" and see what it can do... Oh and find some more time for Real Modelling!

Flymo
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Knuckles
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Postby Knuckles » Sat Sep 01, 2012 11:29 am

I have always fancied this system too. My next layout I want as DCC. Does the reverser act as your typical polarity switch or does it simulate properly? I mean smoothly so for steam engines it needs to be fully forward and as speed increases it can be brought closer to the center like a smooth gear.
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Flymo748
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Postby Flymo748 » Sat Sep 01, 2012 8:20 pm

Knuckles wrote:I have always fancied this system too. My next layout I want as DCC. Does the reverser act as your typical polarity switch or does it simulate properly? I mean smoothly so for steam engines it needs to be fully forward and as speed increases it can be brought closer to the center like a smooth gear.

Hi Knuckles,

I haven't connected it up yet. However the manual says that it does both :-)

"When SIMULATION is not on, the reverser operates like a three position switch. The FWD and REV positions dictate the direction of the currently selected loco. MID represents mid- gear on a steam locomotive, or neutral on a diesel or electric loco.

If SIMULATION is on, then the action of the lever is progressive in combination with the REGULATOR lever."

HTH
Flymo
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Flymo748
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Beer and Buckjumpers - Foundations

Postby Flymo748 » Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:44 pm

When I acquired the Ulpha Light Railway, I was fortunate that it wasn't just the baseboards, it included the whole supporting package - trestles, sub-baseboards, lighting rig, etc. Until now, apart for a quick test assembly after I brought the layout home, I've done nothing with them apart from move them from place to place around motorbikes in the garage.

However as today's weather was so lovely, I had the opportunity (after painting half of the front garden's fence) to get started on renovating them.

Just as with most things on the layout, the underpinnings are a little "tired". I've dismantled the trestle legs and scrapped all of the rather rusty fastening bolts. Nice new stainless ones will be their replacements.

And to get rid of the wear and tear, each leg lower was cleaned by sanding it down on all sides, and drilling out the adjustment holes to a constant size to match the new bolts. If I get chance tomorrow, they'll get a coat of paint.

Baseboards 008.jpg


And the sub-baseboards that sit on top of the trestles and form the foundation for the proper baseboards were a little flexible under load, so they have now had a good "glue and screw" to make them more rigid.

Baseboards 006.jpg


Unfortunately by the second one, I had run out of g-clamps, so it is currently resting under an assortment of cans from the garage!

Baseboards 007.jpg


If the weather holds tomorrow, and I get the time, I can start painting them. Now this feels like making progress!

Flymo
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Flymo748
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Beer and Buckjumpers - Making progress - 1 of 5...

Postby Flymo748 » Sun Sep 09, 2012 8:55 pm

It's time to move things along. I have too many pieces of rolling stock that are sitting around waiting to be finished, and I'm dithering from one to the other.

So early on Sunday morning, I bit the bullet, picked up the paintbrush and had a really good session of getting to grips with my work in progress. The first thing that I went for was an LNWR wagon.

This is the Ratio plastic kit, fitted with MJT rocking W-irons to provide suspension, and an etched nickel silver brake lever which I think came from Ambis. This wagon was basically completed, and I can't remember how long ago it reached that stage - ten, fifteen, twenty years? Anyway, it had been battered a little bit in moving from house to house, and it needed some paint chippings repairing, and the rather mangled Sprat & Winkle couplings replacing.

When that was done, it was time for some weathering to reflect the reality of late Victorian/Edwardian railways. This was done with a mixture of Citadel miniatures washes, which really do work as well as others describe. I think that it was Craig Welsh that first brought them to my attention. I think that there will still be room for "traditional" weathering techniques, such as described by Martyn Welch.

Anyway, this is how it turned out. The load is an assortment of packing cases from an old packet - made by Knightwing, I think. I still have a lot of them to go through! The pale grey sheets are actually lead sheet, folded and glued into place to add weight to the plastic kit. They started off dark grey - normal lead colour - and have oxidised to this colour over the years. An illustration that acts as a warning to support those tales of exploding boilers!

DSC_4748 (Large).JPG


DSC_4750 (Large).JPG


DSC_4784 (Large).JPG


Anyway, I'll try and keep this one safe this time, and not get it damaged again...

Cheers
Flymo
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Flymo748
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Beer and Buckjumpers - making progress - 2 of 5...

Postby Flymo748 » Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:41 pm

Readers of a certain stamina may recall that I had a small disaster when previously trying to weather the timber upperworks of my tram locomotive. The weathering mix that I applied had dried glossy, and I was concerned that I would have to strip the paint off and start again.

My success with the Citadel washes meant that I was willing to give them a try on this model, before turning to something more drastic. And this is the result.

DSC_4780 (Large).JPG
DSC_4780 (Large).JPG (67.2 KiB) Viewed 6546 times


Much more matt, and a convincing settling of grime into the grooves. I've also used a more reddish colour ("Raal Red" - no, I don't know what a Raal or raal is either...) on the inside to bring out the planking.

Although not visible here, the floor has also been made grubby. I nearly became carried away and did the roof as well. However common sense saw the better of me, and I'm going to wait until I have studied a few colour photos to see how the weathering patterns can be made more realistic, rather than just my impressions of the effects of smoke and rain.

Flymo
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Knuckles
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Postby Knuckles » Wed Sep 12, 2012 2:50 pm

Must admit, I'm rather in love with that old LNWR wagon. No idea why, I just really really like it. Bit of a wagon fan me. :shock:

Wagon modelling is something I've started to really enjoy.
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Flymo748
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Postby Flymo748 » Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:52 am

Knuckles wrote:Must admit, I'm rather in love with that old LNWR wagon. No idea why, I just really really like it. Bit of a wagon fan me. :shock:

Wagon modelling is something I've started to really enjoy.


Knuckles,

I completely agree with you! I have wagon kits coming out of my ears.

My ideal layout would be of Bishopsgate Goods Yard, and the surroundings, and I could happily sit there shunting all day. I probably have enough wagon kits to make it happen as well...

I am pleased with the LNWR one. I think that in terms of the detailing of the model, and the paint finish on it, it has set the benchmark of where I want to be. I'm going to use it as a reference point so that when I build/paint others, I don't get "Chinese Whispers" in terms of how they look.

I'm a strong believer that to make a layout look convincing, there must be a consistency of finish, with nothing standing out like a sore thumb.

More pictures of last weekend's loco work to come...

Cheers
Flymo
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Flymo748
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Beer and Buckjumpers - making progess - 3 of 5...

Postby Flymo748 » Mon Sep 17, 2012 9:39 pm

Whilst I had my weathering paints out (or rather the Citadel washes) I made a start on the ex-L&Y Pug that will be an industrial engine.

I did the cab area, in the first stage of an exercise to tone down the colours to match the weathered state of the brick red livery that I have in a photo of a similar saddle tank from the 1960s.

The first picture shows it with the cab off, and the firebox and back of the boiler made suitably grubby. This was by using black washes to sink into the textures of the castings and leave the highlights just a little duller.

DSC_4757 (Large).JPG


The second picture shows the challenge that I will have when I finally bring the body and cab together. Because this is an RTR model, the cab simply clips into place. That means that there is quite a wide join that I will have to fill and disguise. I'm thinking that creeping decrepitude means that the vertical sheet meeting the footplate will probably be quite rusty and grimy.

DSC_4762 (Large).JPG


However the join is less obvious when viewed from the side.

DSC_4763 (Large).JPG


It's got some way to go, but I feel that it is starting to look the part...

Flymo
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Paul Townsend
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers - making progess - 3 of 5...

Postby Paul Townsend » Tue Sep 18, 2012 6:26 am

Nice looking loco now, shame its narrow gauge though &-}

Flymo748 wrote: I'm thinking that creeping decrepitude means that the vertical sheet meeting the footplate will probably be quite rusty and grimy.
Flymo


I have that trouble too when I put my old mac on, but you are decades younger!

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Flymo748
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers - making progess - 3 of 5...

Postby Flymo748 » Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:42 am

paultownsend wrote:Nice looking loco now, shame its narrow gauge though &-}

???

Confused of Amsterdam
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Flymo748
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Postby Flymo748 » Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:56 am

Just a short update on this locomotive. It's an M&L GWR 1076 (or "Buffalo") saddle tank. It was also the first or second P4 locomotive that I built, at the age of 18 or so.

Over the years it has got a little battered, so it is being "refreshed". That includes doing a decent job of painting the cab fittings. I found an excellent picture on the website of the GWS, and used that to prepare the cab. The cab itself is now and authentic green, which I never knew at the time that the model was built!

DSC_4765.JPG


This will never be a "state of the art model" but I really like it for sentimental reasons :-)

Flymo
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Paul Townsend
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers - making progess - 3 of 5...

Postby Paul Townsend » Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:10 am

Flymo748 wrote:
paultownsend wrote:Nice looking loco now, shame its narrow gauge though &-}

???

Confused of Amsterdam


I posted a reply here just now but it seems to have got gobbled by the system that gave me a message to the effect "crossed with another message in the thread ( that will be Flymo's nice cab fittings), you may want to modify your reply. I didn't, submitted and ...pooff GRRR
I will wait a bit and if it doesn't appear I will re-write it.

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Paul Townsend
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers

Postby Paul Townsend » Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:18 am

Flymo748 wrote:Just a short update on this locomotive. It's an M&L GWR 1076 (or "Buffalo") saddle tank. <snipped> I found an excellent picture on the website of the GWS, and used that to prepare the cab. The cab itself is now and authentic green, which I never knew at the time that the model was built!

Flymo


Also wrong gauge but nice! These Buffalos were a BG derivative!
I hope the GWS piccie is of a period loco and not a preserved one as preserved locos often have historically wrong colour schemes applied, "because they look nice", eg Blue S&DJR 7F on W Somerset Rly.
Also experts sometimes make howlers ....see Instanter coupling used on Firefly tender at Didcot!
Their excuse was that is was the only available coupling that would fit...fair enough to be pragmatic but it should have a health warning...I nearly choked on my ale and crisps.

Not that I ever make mistakes &-{

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Paul Townsend
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Re: Beer and Buckjumpers - making progess - 3 of 5...

Postby Paul Townsend » Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:36 am

Flymo748 wrote:
paultownsend wrote:Nice looking loco now, shame its narrow gauge though &-}

???

Confused of Amsterdam


re-written reply...

I am promoted from 1913 Highbridge where Manors (Timeline?!!), rice puddings, 28xx, Prairies, Panniers, Dean Goods, Buffalos, 3F, 2p etc prevail to 1880 Dartmouth mixed gauge ( P4 track and wheel standards of course).

One of the required locos is an ex-Plymouth Dock shunter pug which has similarities to yours; these are recorded as occasionally escaping from Plymouth to work the Brixham branch and so to Dartmouth in my world. Some were narrowed later.

Broad Gauge Society Journal Spring 2011 published drawings and pictures, Subsequently the generous donation of some parts from Roger Slade of CSP Models kick started my interest. Enough other bods were interested that BGS have commissioned a model kit from Agenoria who will market the NG 7mm version soon. CSP will do the 4mm version a bit later and BGS will market the BG versions.

Want to know more?
Visit us at BGS stall at Leatherhead.

Innocent of Bristol


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