Canonbury Goods: NLR c.1903

[David B]

There is this for pennies on Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Foam-Sheets-1- ... B007P55XYG - would it be a viable substitue for Safeprint?

Looks very similar to packs from Hobbycraft. Also on the page are A3 and A4 sheets, very useful for lining stock boxes and jaws of the vice. Thickness not mentioned on the site but is 2mm for the A3 and A4 sheets.

[Paul Townsend]

There is this for pennies on Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Foam-Sheets-1- ... B007P55XYG - would it be a viable substitue for Safeprint?

Looks very similar to packs from Hobbycraft. Also on the page are A3 and A4 sheets, very useful for lining stock boxes and jaws of the vice. Thickness not mentioned on the site but is 2mm for the A3 and A4 sheets.

Does anyone have experience of using any of these 3 sources of material with scribing, indenting etc?
In particular does it retain indentations or spring back slowly? In which case setts would disappear!

[jim s-w]

Another option is the foam that kebab boxes are made from. I've not used it myself but seen articles on its use. Ask your local chippy for some boxes. Advantage is it's nice and thin but one potential problem might be that a derailed wagon might leave marks in the surface too.


HTH

Jim

[Ian Everett]

Another option is the foam that kebab boxes are made from. I've not used it myself but seen articles on its use. Ask your local chippy for some boxes. Advantage is it's nice and thin but one potential problem might be that a derailed wagon might leave marks in the surface too.

I can see this might be a problem - so far I've used Safeprint for vertical surfaces - cottages, Clecklewyke viaduct etc, however paint produces a hardened layer wh ich would be protective to a certain extent.

I would love to use kebab boxes but there are no kebab shops in Wensleydale - a shame on several levels.

Ian

[dal-t]

one potential problem might be that a derailed wagon might leave marks in the surface too.

Jim

Wot, just like in real life? Watch out, everyone will have to have one of those ...

[RobM]

Does anyone have experience of using any of these 3 sources of material with scribing, indenting etc?
In particular does it retain indentations or spring back slowly? In which case setts would disappear!

As it happens had to go to Hobbycraft today so picked up a few sheets of foam board. Stamped some setts, scribed a few lines and 5 hours later still OK.....but......it is very flimsy, accidentally marks easily, not that dense so in my opinion not up to the job, will be using as a substrate for the remaining area that needs Das, lining stock boxes or newly acquired perspex small 3 drawers as per David B........
R

[garethashenden]

I didn't even think about the possibility of the clay shrinking as it dried and I did put it on in a pretty thick layer. the part outside of the rail sunk a bit, maybe 0.5mm, but didn't pull away from the rail. The section between the rails was laid in two layers, but at the same time. I was planning on just doing one layer, but I didn't use enough clay. This section has not shrunk at all, or if it has it's not noticeable.
I have painted the sample with a mixture of black, white, and burnt umber oil paints. It's a bit browner than I'd like. I think I'll drybrush a bit of white/light gray on top, as the brown is a good colour for mucky gaps.

[Andrew Ullyott]

Looks good. I've got a load of Palight (it's a type of foam board) which I've scribed and still has all the indentations. I might try a piece using this method to see how it works.

[RobM]

I have painted the sample with a mixture of black, white, and burnt umber oil paints. It's a bit browner than I'd like.

Substitute the black for ultramarine blue. Combinations of burnt umber/ultramarine/titanium white or burnt sienna/cobalt blue/titanium white give good warm to cool greys.

I think I'll drybrush a bit of white/light gray on top, as the brown is a good colour for mucky gaps.

Alternatively thin washes of ultramarine.
Rob

[garethashenden]

I have painted the sample with a mixture of black, white, and burnt umber oil paints. It's a bit browner than I'd like.

Substitute the black for ultramarine blue. Combinations of burnt umber/ultramarine/titanium white or burnt sienna/cobalt blue/titanium white give good warm to cool greys.

I think I'll drybrush a bit of white/light gray on top, as the brown is a good colour for mucky gaps.

Alternatively thin washes of ultramarine.
Rob

Thanks Rob, I hadn't thought of using blue. I'll pick some up. Any other colours I should get while I'm at it? I have Lamp Black, Titanium White, Burnt Umber, Raw Sienna, Yellow Ochre, and Cadmium Red. Maybe some sort of green?

[RobM]

Thanks Rob, I hadn't thought of using blue. I'll pick some up. Any other colours I should get while I'm at it? I have Lamp Black, Titanium White, Burnt Umber, Raw Sienna, Yellow Ochre, and Cadmium Red. Maybe some sort of green?

Mmmmmm......I always hated green, an extremely difficult colour. Experience (based upon the use of pure pigments) has always tended to viridian green which can be modified with cadmium yellow, blues and browns (cobalt and burnt sienna) reds, blacks.....the list goes on.
Without a full art lesson, burnt sienna is a useful colour along with cobalt blue.

I see that you are using oil colours, just a wee bit too long in drying, I use acrylics which dry within minutes but I always leave a few hours before further applications. Acrylics also have the advantage of being able to apply very thin washes without the need to wait days for the paint to dry.
Rob

[billbedford]

I would be careful using titanium white. It is very opaque and will mask the other colours. Try zinc white instead.

[Ian Everett]

I would never have thought of using blue on stonework but Geoff Taylor, creator of the buildings on MMRC's Dewsbury, advocates it rather than black.

I wish I'd listened more to Terry Sattersford, our wonderfully-named art teacher!

[garethashenden]

Looking a bit better

[Noel]

Trams, not trains, but may be interesting...

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bbPZYCMQkF8/UKPRnanXREI/AAAAAAAAXQ8/qXqrmFPavmI/s1600/Upper+Parliament+st+1950+near+the+Rialto.jpg

[Noel]

I think this one is a railway

http://streetsofliverpool.co.uk/world-heritage-waterfront/pram-and-docks/

[garethashenden]

Well it's been a while.I think there are two main reasons why I haven't been particularly motivated to work on this recently:

1) There are an awful lot of setts to press

2) I have no idea how to start on the buildings and I need the retaining walls in place before I can put setts up against them.

The setts aren't too bad to do, but I do need to define the area better before I proceed much further, hence the need for the retaining walls. I think I will make most of the scenery cores out of thin plywood. I used foam board for a couple parts but they've already warped. My father has some offcuts of suitable ply so hopefully I can rope him into helping soon. Probably a good time to do the backscene and sides while we're at it.

In the meantime I've come to the conclusion that I would be more motivated to work on the layout if I was able to play trains with it. I have a blue Class 25 originally acquired for Empire Mills that has now been fitted with Ultrascale wheels. I used it as a test vehicle while trackbuilding, but it's a little too long for the layout. I can get the engine and zero wagons into the headshunt. Because of this I have been concentrating my efforts on getting the Park tank to a state of completedness that I can use it. It has now been fitted with a very powerful 7 pole Maxon motor, buffers, and coupling hooks. I spent a few minutes earlier today shuffling some wagons around and quite enjoyed it. It's also very nice to be able to test the track as it will be used, rather than by pushing things through by hand. In doing so I have come across a couple of issues that need addressing:

1) Two wagons that when placed between the locomotive and the rest of the train on a pushing movement like to jump the track at the first possibility. Light weight almost certainly the cause.

2) One section of track 0.4mm overgauge, not sure how that happened.

3) Two switchblades protruding above the adjacent stock rails, again, not sure how I missed them before.

All in all it was a worthwhile thing to do, I'm definitely looking forward to getting back to work on the layout.

[garethashenden]

Just a quick post to show that I have progressed to having a backscene for the layout. It's 15" high and greatly helps to enclose the layout. While cutting plywood we cut a few more bits to help frame in the scenery, retaining walls, buildings, and so forth.

[garethashenden]

I've been working on framing in the retaining walls. I'm just about done with the wood cutting and things are fitting pretty well. It will be a while before I actually glue things in place though. It will be far easier and will produce better results to build each wall on it's own and then add it to the layout. I cut up my last two sheets of Slaters bricks today and fit them temporarily with double sided tape. I've ordered more brick sheet, but in the meantime I've got enough scraps to start detailing the area I've got.






Here are some pictures of actual retaining walls in the area.

[Phil O]

I'll bet those retaining walls didn't have the greenery or graffiti in 1903.

Phil

[garethashenden]

After a month of being distracted by 2mmFS I have come back to the retaining wall. With more brick sheet in hand I was able to cut a correctly sized piece for bridge wall. Following on from that I have almost completed the detailing on the ramp wall. It was done by building up multiple layers of brick sheet and attaching them in what look to be the correct places. Still some bits left to do, then the other wall, but it's coming together.

[garethashenden]

Having actually been working on this project a good amount recently has given me the opportunity to discover a rather major flaw in the design: the actual operation of the layout is mind-numbingly boring. I spent a little while playing around with a couple of things to see if I could make relatively minor changes that would liven things up a bit, but in the end I came to the conclusion that a yard of this sized probably wouldn't have an exceedingly complex trackwork and that starting over with something better was the best course of action.

For the sake of clarity I'll start a new thread for the new layout. It can be found here: viewtopic.php?f=101&t=5380