Brimsdown-The last grand project.

Tell us about your layout, where you put it, how you built it, how you operate it.
trustytrev
Posts: 29
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2018 10:19 pm

Re: Brimsdown-The last grand project.

Postby trustytrev » Wed Sep 23, 2020 5:47 pm

Hello,
Is it possible to get a diamond cutting disk for longer life with these machines?
trustytrev. :)

Philip Hall
Posts: 1506
Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2009 7:49 pm

Re: Brimsdown-The last grand project.

Postby Philip Hall » Wed Sep 23, 2020 9:43 pm

A diamond disc is available and I have one to try one day. I was recommended to try this ‘special steel‘ blade by the supplier and it has been pretty good. It may be that the diamond disc gives a slightly cleaner cut but as this works well still I’m not going to make a change until the blade is completely worn out. It’s easy to change but a bit of a fiddle in a small space.

I don’t know whether a diamond blade will last longer (yet!) If it’s of interest I can photograph the two blades.

Philip

Terry Bendall
Forum Team
Posts: 1787
Joined: Sun Jul 27, 2008 7:46 am

Re: Brimsdown-The last grand project.

Postby Terry Bendall » Thu Sep 24, 2020 8:08 am

Philip Hall wrote:The only problem is that it doesn’t go all the way to the table bed when cutting such a thin strip,


That is probably the best that can be done Philip and as long as the teeth are covered that should be sufficient protection. The normal practice with larger saws is that the guard, known as the crown guard, is "as close as is practicable" to the top surface of the material being cut. In practice about 10mm or a a bit less on the basis that your fingers are thicker than 10mm.

Philip Hall wrote:I use thick coffee stirrers to push the PCB though and against the fence as well as to hold down it down as the bits get smaller.


An ideal solution and correct practice.

Terry Bendall

Tony Wilkins
Posts: 415
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2012 3:57 pm

Re: Brimsdown-The last grand project.

Postby Tony Wilkins » Tue Sep 29, 2020 3:21 pm

After concentrating on getting the relay cards done, because they were simpler, (relatively speaking) I have now gone back to the display cards, however what should have been relatively straight forward, has turned into something of a saga. One of the last pictures I posted was this one.
DSCF1099.jpg

The strip-board on the right was the last one I then had (since used) so ordered some more. When the order arrived, including other components I had ordered, the strip-boards turned out to be the wrong size, only half as long (like those in the middle) and of little use to me. After checking I discovered that the the wrong item had been put to stock by the supplier so needed to be returned for a refund. This presented a conundrum. If I reordered, there was a good chance of a repeat performance, or did I wait and hope they would sort their stock out first? The problem was that I had reached a stage where I couldn't make further progress without more strip-board.
I decided to try an alternate supplier I sometimes use and found a suitable, but longer, alternative. These were ordered and duly arrived the next day.
I was therefore able to make the next display card.
DSCF1108.jpg

There are a lot more components on this one that the first one shown above.
There are other differences. The top PCB has the display modules as part of the build (for testing purposes, it will need to be separated later anyway) whereas for the latter ones I made them separately, this is where the last piece of strip-board went.
Despite doing this, the resulting PCB is still longer than the one above after shortening it, meaning that I would not have been able to fit everything needed onto the PCBs I originally ordered, so it is perhaps serendipitous that I ended up with the longer ones. I only hope none of the other two display cards are any longer as I have reached the maximum length I can sensibly fit across the width of the control panel.
DSCF1109.jpg

At the top is a full length piece of strip-board. At this length it is a bit unwieldy for wiring, but not knowing the required length, I left as is until I had finalised the component layout.
The new card at the bottom has its display PCB to the right.
The plan is to link them with some pieces of flat flexi cable that I have on order, the problem here is they are currently out of stock and not due in till mid November. Until then I cannot link the two together and test them out. I am loath to do so temporarily as strip-board does not take kindly to repeated soldering and unsoldering of components, so I will just have to bide my time. It aint as though there aren't other things to get on with in the meantime.
Regards
Tony.

Tony Wilkins
Posts: 415
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2012 3:57 pm

Re: Brimsdown-The last grand project.

Postby Tony Wilkins » Tue Oct 13, 2020 11:51 am

Well all the PCBs are now done and here is the full set (minus display boards) laid out in the base of the control panel.
This may not be the final arrangement as fixings for the front panel have yet to be finalised.
DSCF1112.jpg

Some weeks back I ordered the Aluminium sheet I would need for the front panels. I finally got round to opening the package yesterday. The supplier specified their cutting tolerances as +2 -0mm, so I reduced my specified width of the side pieces by 1mm just in case. The sheets are all cut to -0mm so I have two small gaps to live with now. Perhaps I should have just gone for the sizes I wanted in the first place, but I didn't want to be faced with lots of filing in order to get things to fit. There is going to be enough of that to do anyway with the display cutouts etc.

Tony.

Tony Wilkins
Posts: 415
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2012 3:57 pm

Re: Brimsdown-The last grand project.

Postby Tony Wilkins » Thu Oct 15, 2020 12:03 pm

So here is the first fit of the main aluminium front plates (ignoring the trial fit which showed some minor adjustments were required).
The rather attractive blue colour is the protective plastic film as supplied.
DSCF1113.jpg

After some debate I decided to hinge the front plate for access. This in itself created some issues with fitting and alignment.
It has meant repositioning some of the circuit boards. The wooden blocks will give additional support for the panel when down.
DSCF1114.jpg

The paper printout gives a good impression of the intended appearance of this part of the control panel.
DSCF1115.jpg

The angled panel at the back will house the numerical LED displays for the roads selected. The next job will be to cut the holes to mount these as they need to line up accurately with the display driver PCBs to be mounted on the base. The back plate will have to be removed for this.

Tony.

Tony Wilkins
Posts: 415
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2012 3:57 pm

Re: Brimsdown-The last grand project.

Postby Tony Wilkins » Sat Oct 17, 2020 4:55 pm

Well here is the back plate with the holes cut and three of the numerical LED modules fitted. The forth one is still attached to the rest of the display driver board and I am a bit loath to detach it at the moment as the connecting cables I have on order are currently unavailable for another month or so.
DSCF1116.jpg

Tony Wilkins
Posts: 415
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2012 3:57 pm

Re: Brimsdown-The last grand project.

Postby Tony Wilkins » Wed Oct 28, 2020 11:11 pm

Well I finally took the plunge and printed the panel on my Vinyl sheets with mixed success. It was every bit as trying as I thought it might be. Due to the extra thickness over paper, it has a tendency to jam in the mechanism. This was the second attempt. This is actually two sheets of A3 joined together on the backing paper with sellotape.
DSCF1120.jpg

I used this to position and mark the placement of all the required holes in the front panel. To prevent it moving during the process, I used two strips of masking tape at either end to hold it in place. This did not turn out to be one of my better ideas as when I later attempted to remove the masking tape from the film it left sticky residues behind, which rather negated the reason for using masking tape in the first place. Attempts to remove this with various solvents failed but did succeed in smearing some of the printed ink thus ruining the vinyl printout. Attempts to print off another were of varying quality, but I eventually managed to produce two halves that were, I hoped, usable.
However, I pressed on and drilled all the holes that I had by now marked with a center punch.
I thought I had taken a picture of the plate with all the holes drilled, but it was not in the camera.
Choosing the best two vinyl sheets I then attempted to stick these onto the surface of the front panel correctly aligned. I don't know what the best technique for using large self adhesive vinyl sheets is, but I clearly didn't have it. The result isn't what I would have hoped for but I decided to live with it, at least for the moment. When I had the Aluminium sheets cut, I ordered two of everything just in case, so I do have a second front plate spare.
I then spent a happy evening fitting all the switches and this is the result.
It's beginning to come together and is going to be quite impressive. At least, I think so.
DSCF1122.jpg

The underside looks like so.
DSCF1123.jpg

There is going to be a lot of wiring required. One thing I made sure of was that all the push button switches were the same way round as this means the same tags are wired up on each switch, so this only has to be tested once with a meter.

Meanwhile, when assembling the storage yard baseboards post wiring, I discovered that some of the baseboard joints needed attention and one in particular was a real doorstep. I separated the baseboards to investigate and this is what I discovered.
DSCF1117.jpg

The bottom of the Sundeala board had de-laminated and is not the first time this has happened during this construction. Sundeala ain't what it used to be and I have had second thoughts about making that choice in the light of experience, however, there is no going back now. After cleaning out the split with a thin saw blade, as much wood glue as possible was inserted with the aid of a spatula. the area was then firmly clamped and left to set overnight.
DSCF1118.jpg

The result?
The rail direction of the step was less but reversed. This was dealt with by raising the rail ends on extra solder.
Regards
Tony.


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