Are you going to line it like the picture? I AM looking forward to that (sooo much). Lovely colour, kind of diar..., light tan
North British models
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Winander
- Posts: 861
- Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2014 12:19 pm
Re: North British models
More kind words, I'm really enjoying this and picking up plenty of useful tips.
Are you going to line it like the picture? I AM looking forward to that (sooo much). Lovely colour, kind of diar..., light tan
Are you going to line it like the picture? I AM looking forward to that (sooo much). Lovely colour, kind of diar..., light tan
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Daddyman
- Posts: 746
- Joined: Sat Jun 03, 2017 1:09 pm
Re: North British models
Thanks, Richard!
No, I'm not going to line it like the one in the photo. The livery was something that the Lytham Transport Museum applied when they had the loco for its first 30 years of preservation. Apart from the fact that no "G" would ever have carried the livery, it's wrong in many details for the classes that did receive it (lettering styles, lining colours, etc); plus, the loco is in post-WW2 state with a J72 chimney, altered cab roof, and various other detail differences. The only authentic livery would be post-war LNER or BR black.
No, I'm not going to line it like the one in the photo. The livery was something that the Lytham Transport Museum applied when they had the loco for its first 30 years of preservation. Apart from the fact that no "G" would ever have carried the livery, it's wrong in many details for the classes that did receive it (lettering styles, lining colours, etc); plus, the loco is in post-WW2 state with a J72 chimney, altered cab roof, and various other detail differences. The only authentic livery would be post-war LNER or BR black.
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Daddyman
- Posts: 746
- Joined: Sat Jun 03, 2017 1:09 pm
Re: North British models
It's been slow and fiddly recently.
The real locos have globe lubricators above the cylinders.
Caley Coaches do some, but they're all the wrong pattern. So I had to make some. This is the process - hopefully self-explanatory - lots of drilling of small-bore capillary tube (nick it first with a triangular file in a spot that will be invisible later). Keep your eyes on the bit arrowed in red.
I initially used a 7mm-scale handrail knob, but when I compared it to some off a Hornby J36 (I still have one on decision) it was clear the ball was too big:
So, not wishing to let the good be the enemy of the perfect, I did it again with a 4mm knob. (Where are the grossly oversized 4mm handrail knobs when you need them?) (Original 7mm one on the right in the photo.)
Not sure... I've been sitting with this for a week or so trying to decide if I can accept it. When it comes down to it, you realise that the balls on handrails knobs, both 4- and 7mm scale, are not very round. It probably looks OK at normal viewing distance, but if you can't view a model at 10 times magnification from 2 inches away, what's the point?
Also been having a crack at the backhead. Like the smokebox door, this again makes full use of RTR parts - in this case some Hornby gauge glasses and a flange/gland from a King Arthur which tried to sneak across my workbench and got walloped with a hammer. Rivet transfers still to add.
This is what I'm aiming at. Like many preserved locos it seems to have lost the brass rim to the backhead. Does anyone know what the circled things are - or, more precisely, whether I have to model them? They don't seem to be there on in-traffic locos - well, the red thing never, the green thing maybe not always?
Beginnings of the thing in the middle of the backhead - Virtual Group tell me it's not in fact a steering wheel but a "regulator".
Also got an injector done during the Virtual S4 meeting last night. Real thing (below the footplate):
Model: "happiest moment of the past half million."
Process for making a forked joint might be of interest? - had to do one on the reversing rod. I soldered together two pieces of 1mm x 5 thou N/S strip from Palatine Models. I left the end unsoldered, so that the two strips could be prised apart:
The two strips bent back to 90 degrees:
Then crimped over a piece of 15 thou:
Finished rod awaiting the fork trimming (actually, I'm lying: I forgot to take photos of the rod I in fact fitted so falsified this stub after the fact):
Next job is these fiddlesticks on the side of the bunker, but I'm waiting for new drills to arrive after a batch of 10 Heller 0.4s in which all were blunt - time for a change...
The real locos have globe lubricators above the cylinders.
Caley Coaches do some, but they're all the wrong pattern. So I had to make some. This is the process - hopefully self-explanatory - lots of drilling of small-bore capillary tube (nick it first with a triangular file in a spot that will be invisible later). Keep your eyes on the bit arrowed in red.
I initially used a 7mm-scale handrail knob, but when I compared it to some off a Hornby J36 (I still have one on decision) it was clear the ball was too big:
So, not wishing to let the good be the enemy of the perfect, I did it again with a 4mm knob. (Where are the grossly oversized 4mm handrail knobs when you need them?) (Original 7mm one on the right in the photo.)
Not sure... I've been sitting with this for a week or so trying to decide if I can accept it. When it comes down to it, you realise that the balls on handrails knobs, both 4- and 7mm scale, are not very round. It probably looks OK at normal viewing distance, but if you can't view a model at 10 times magnification from 2 inches away, what's the point?
Also been having a crack at the backhead. Like the smokebox door, this again makes full use of RTR parts - in this case some Hornby gauge glasses and a flange/gland from a King Arthur which tried to sneak across my workbench and got walloped with a hammer. Rivet transfers still to add.
This is what I'm aiming at. Like many preserved locos it seems to have lost the brass rim to the backhead. Does anyone know what the circled things are - or, more precisely, whether I have to model them? They don't seem to be there on in-traffic locos - well, the red thing never, the green thing maybe not always?
Beginnings of the thing in the middle of the backhead - Virtual Group tell me it's not in fact a steering wheel but a "regulator".
Also got an injector done during the Virtual S4 meeting last night. Real thing (below the footplate):
Model: "happiest moment of the past half million."
Process for making a forked joint might be of interest? - had to do one on the reversing rod. I soldered together two pieces of 1mm x 5 thou N/S strip from Palatine Models. I left the end unsoldered, so that the two strips could be prised apart:
The two strips bent back to 90 degrees:
Then crimped over a piece of 15 thou:
Finished rod awaiting the fork trimming (actually, I'm lying: I forgot to take photos of the rod I in fact fitted so falsified this stub after the fact):
Next job is these fiddlesticks on the side of the bunker, but I'm waiting for new drills to arrive after a batch of 10 Heller 0.4s in which all were blunt - time for a change...
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