High Level 03 Chassis Build
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
Interesting project.
Roughly how long has it taken you to build the chassis? Are the wheels sprung too?
Thank you
Gareth
Roughly how long has it taken you to build the chassis? Are the wheels sprung too?
Thank you
Gareth
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
I've made the decision to replace all the wheels with a brand new set as I originally fitted the AG wheels without using the GW wheel press, which I didn't have at the time but have one now. This is more than likely where the damage to centres has arisen. So after practicing with the press and picking up plenty of tips on here (thanks guys) and other sites to I'm ready for another bash at them with quite a bit more knowledge about fitting them correctly. The plunger pickups can go to, I'm not happy with them either.
Cheers, Graham.
Cheers, Graham.
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
garethevans1986 wrote:Interesting project.
Roughly how long has it taken you to build the chassis? Are the wheels sprung too?
Thank you
Gareth
Been building it for around 3 and a bit months up to now, mybee 3 or 4, 2 hour evening sessions a week. The front 2 axels are compensated and the rear axle is fixed.
It would look good on 'Mostyn' when it's finished
Cheers, Graham
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
I think the design of that particular wheel makes it more difficult to get concentric. The centre is a tight fit in the tyre as well as on the axle, so the plastic is forced outwards from the bore and inwards from the circumference. The thinner spokes give more than the balance weights, so the centre moves.
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
High Level Kits wrote:I think the design of that particular wheel makes it more difficult to get concentric. The centre is a tight fit in the tyre as well as on the axle, so the plastic is forced outwards from the bore and inwards from the circumference. The thinner spokes give more than the balance weights, so the centre moves.
Thanks for all the help with this, much appreciated. Graham.
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
Blue & Yellow wrote:garethevans1986 wrote:Interesting project.
Roughly how long has it taken you to build the chassis? Are the wheels sprung too?
Thank you
Gareth
Been building it for around 3 and a bit months up to now, mybee 3 or 4, 2 hour evening sessions a week. The front 2 axels are compensated and the rear axle is fixed.
It would look good on 'Mostyn' when it's finished
Cheers, Graham
You never know, it could be something we can arrange when the layout is up in the clubrooms or something.
Gareth
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
Well after a just a few hours of enjoyment and frustration the 03 now looks like a new out of the box Bachmann model. The chassis is now running very nicely at very slow speeds and is more or less complete except for weathering. Now it's time to start on the body.
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
Blue and Yellow that looks fantastic.
The photos appear that this has been made in a factory!
The photos appear that this has been made in a factory!
Doug
Still not doing enough modelling
Still not doing enough modelling
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
Well the 03 is finally complete and runs Perfectly. Thanks for the help & advance given during the build
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
I am also wanting to build a Class 03 shunter [D2133 in Green Livery].
High Level chassis is a must.
But what of the body? Three choices exist.
1, Airfix/Rosebud kit, however this has the wrong style of chimney. Also I doubt my skills of painting the black & yellow chevrons.
2, Mainline what is this model like? Can I get away with just buying a body?
3, Bachmann same again what is this like and can I get away with just a body?
For wheels I was going for Alan Gibson, as Ultrascale are good but expensive plus delivery is currently 4 months.
For the High Level chassis any in put as to what type of motor?
Thanks for your input.
High Level chassis is a must.
But what of the body? Three choices exist.
1, Airfix/Rosebud kit, however this has the wrong style of chimney. Also I doubt my skills of painting the black & yellow chevrons.
2, Mainline what is this model like? Can I get away with just buying a body?
3, Bachmann same again what is this like and can I get away with just a body?
For wheels I was going for Alan Gibson, as Ultrascale are good but expensive plus delivery is currently 4 months.
For the High Level chassis any in put as to what type of motor?
Thanks for your input.
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
RAO wrote:I am also wanting to build a Class 03 shunter [D2133 in Green Livery]. ...
1, Airfix/Rosebud kit, however this has the wrong style of chimney. Also I doubt my skills of painting the black & yellow chevrons. ...
It isn't just the chimney. This kit is for a Drewry 04, it doesn't have the raised section of bonnet next to the cab, nor does it have external bonnet hinges, and the cab profile is very different. Converting it would mean a lot of work...
Regards
Noel
Noel
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
RAO wrote:I am also wanting to build a Class 03 shunter [D2133 in Green Livery].
High Level chassis is a must.
But what of the body? Three choices exist.
1, Airfix/Rosebud kit, however this has the wrong style of chimney. Also I doubt my skills of painting the black & yellow chevrons.
2, Mainline what is this model like? Can I get away with just buying a body?
3, Bachmann same again what is this like and can I get away with just a body?
For wheels I was going for Alan Gibson, as Ultrascale are good but expensive plus delivery is currently 4 months.
For the High Level chassis any in put as to what type of motor?
Thanks for your input.
As Noel has said the Airfix kit is a class 04 not 03
The mainline body has crude handrails compared to the Bachmann one but the radiator is better on the mainline one
Gibson wheels have the balance weights on them. These are not included in the high level kit.
Hope this helps
Jim
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
Thank you both for your input.
If the radiator is better on the Mainline body how difficult would it be to change the poor handrails?
If the radiator is better on the Mainline body how difficult would it be to change the poor handrails?
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
Very easy, the only slight difficulty is fabricating the three legged ones; suggest making drilling and bending jigs as there are several to do.
Last edited by Simon_S on Wed Nov 27, 2019 8:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
Thanks I'll give is a try.
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
Chassis has been constructed and now being painted prior to final building.
However High Level provide some excellent footplate overlays, has any one tackled these?
If so what did you bond them on with?
I was considering 3M spraymount?
However High Level provide some excellent footplate overlays, has any one tackled these?
If so what did you bond them on with?
I was considering 3M spraymount?
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
RAO wrote:Chassis has been constructed and now being painted prior to final building.
However High Level provide some excellent footplate overlays, has any one tackled these?
If so what did you bond them on with?
I was considering 3M spraymount?
An aeromodeller I follow recently identified a Loctite gel-glue that bonds like cyanoacrylate but takes about a minute to set. He says that it's very good for photo-etched overlays. Haven't had time to try it myself, but will be getting some when I can.
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
I'd very much like to know exactly which Loctite product this is, there being so many in the Loctite range. Sounds like it might be just what I need for bonding etched window frames to clear glazing material - in my case the Slaters variety: .010" and .040" Plastiglaz.Guy Rixon wrote:very good for photo-etched overlays.
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
Blue & Yellow wrote:I've made the decision to replace all the wheels with a brand new set as I originally fitted the AG wheels without using the GW wheel press, which I didn't have at the time but have one now. This is more than likely where the damage to centres has arisen. So after practicing with the press and picking up plenty of tips on here (thanks guys) and other sites to I'm ready for another bash at them with quite a bit more knowledge about fitting them correctly.
Cheers, Graham.
I got a GW wheel press some years ago and its been a godsend when assembling wheelsets. My trick, learned recently, with AG wheels is to put the wheels into the press getting them as flat as possible (the sprung axle locators will tend to push them up) and bring the press together so that the wheel backs meet, and squeeze gently in the vice. Then separate and insert the axle and re-press. Obviously this doesn't work with wheels that have a raised boss on the rear, but for flat-backed wheels it does seem to square everything up before the axle goes in. The foregoing comments about lightly countersinking the rear of the axle-hole and lightly chamfering the axle end, are also de rigueur to all help guide things in straight.
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Re: High Level 03 Chassis Build
steve howe wrote:I got a GW wheel press some years ago and its been a godsend when assembling wheelsets. My trick, learned recently, with AG wheels is to put the wheels into the press getting them as flat as possible (the sprung axle locators will tend to push them up) and bring the press together so that the wheel backs meet, and squeeze gently in the vice. Then separate and insert the axle and re-press. Obviously this doesn't work with wheels that have a raised boss on the rear, but for flat-backed wheels it does seem to square everything up before the axle goes in. The foregoing comments about lightly countersinking the rear of the axle-hole and lightly chamfering the axle end, are also de rigueur to all help guide things in straight.
That is an extremely useful, and seemingly quick to do, technique. Can I suggest that, where wheels do have a boss on the back, a "mask", a little greater in size than the wheels and with a central hole to take the boss, could be placed between the two wheel-backs. It would obviously have to be at least as thick as the extent to which two bosses protrude, but seemingly could be a little thicker, and presumably could be simply made from plasticard.
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