I have three 3500 gallon tenders on the go at the moment and I have built them so the wheels can be fully removable for painting and other maintenance.
The kit is designed for the wheels to be fitted permanently.
In order to make the brakes removable I have fitted a small spigot in the frames where the upper brake pivot goes and then fitted a small tube to the outer face at the top of the brake hanger. Once the lower cross shaft is fitted the brakes can spring between the frames to retain them.
I made the tube to the correct length by drilling a hole in a block of metal and after cutting the tube over length fitting it in the hole and filing it flush to the surface. I then drilled another hole to the exact depth of the spacer and then put the tube in that hole with the end not yet filed at the top and filed that flush with the top.
I used a sleeve on the drill with the required amount of drill bit protruding at the end to drill the hole to the required depth.
I removed the completed bush from the hole with a broken broach and carefully removed the swarf. I did enough if these for 15 tenders! This method was much quicker than turning each one.
The next problem was getting the brake block aligned with the wheel so I made a jig to do this. Hopefully the following pictures make this clear.
Mark
Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
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Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
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Re: Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
Very clean and methodical work there Mark.
All Best
Dave
All Best
Dave
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Re: Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
Wonderfully simple jig for the bushes, Mark - I have slaved over many a set of those without thinking of doing that! Those are superb double-hanger assemblies - very well done, thanks for posting. I will shortly have seven loco chassis brake assemblies under construction, in 'staggered parallel', so will adopt these ideas as valuable time-savers....
Steve
Steve
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Re: Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
best33 wrote:...In order to make the brakes removable I have fitted a small spigot in the frames where the upper brake pivot goes and then fitted a small tube to the outer face at the top of the brake hanger. Once the lower cross shaft is fitted the brakes can spring between the frames to retain them.
I made the tube to the correct length by drilling a hole in a block of metal and after cutting the tube over length fitting it in the hole and filing it flush to the surface. I then drilled another hole to the exact depth of the spacer and then put the tube in that hole with the end not yet filed at the top and filed that flush with the top.
Have to agree that removable wheels and brake gear are the way to go and you seem to be making a very neat and tidy job. I've often need short lengths of tube for exactly this sort of job and I've found a nice easy way of cutting of the bits of tube I needed. The quick and easy way to cut small tube is to role it under s sharp craft knife. The result is a clean end that shouldn't need cleaning up. If you press too hard you can close the tub up just a touch but this doesn't matter so long as the tub isn't to close a fit on the wire that goes through it in the first place. I can cut rings 0.5mm long off the end of a tube without to much difficulty which come in very handy when attempting plumbing details. I generally start with the tube against a steel rule so I can measure how much I'm cutting off. If your worried about 1/10 of a mm and repeatbility you can use an end stop jig to ensure they are the right length and all the same. The most difficult bit is stopping the cut off bits pinging away and self sacrificing themselves to the Grear Carpet God.
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Re: Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
Yes I have used this method before. To stop the bits firing off across the room I used to push a piece of wire inside the tube to trap them!
Here are some more pictures showing the completed brakes and one temporarily balanced on its spigot.
Mark
Here are some more pictures showing the completed brakes and one temporarily balanced on its spigot.
Mark
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Re: Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
What is the length of the tube you are using or how did you come up with it?
I ask as I need to do the brake gear on the V2's (again batch building) I need to find a way that works for me as I keep struggling with brake gear that works, (when I dont want it too!)
I ask as I need to do the brake gear on the V2's (again batch building) I need to find a way that works for me as I keep struggling with brake gear that works, (when I dont want it too!)
Doug
Still not doing enough modelling
Still not doing enough modelling
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Re: Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
The tube basically sets the distance from the frames to the brake hanger so it will different for a different kit or prototype. In this instance I think it was 0.8mm. I first used this 20 years ago. I built a 28xx and made the brakes removable by not soldering the hangers to the pivot. Since they were double hangers again you had to engage quite a lot of the hanger. I found the brakes got damaged and the pivots used to get bent so I decided to make the pivot project no more than 0.5mm from the outside of the frames and arrange for a brass tube to locate over it and space the brakes. This prevents the pivot being bent and the amount of deflection needed to sprung the brake assembly off is quite small.
Mark
Mark
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Re: Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
Thanks Mark that is great information. I will have to make some time to look over the problems I can foresee on the V2's
Doug
Still not doing enough modelling
Still not doing enough modelling
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Re: Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
DougN wrote:....I keep struggling with brake gear that works, (when I don't want it too!)
A slight irony in that the system described here actually makes the brakes look as though they could be made to operate....
That would be an ecumenical matter.
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Re: Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
It is useful to build them so they can be moved for final adjustments but to make them so they can operate; No Thanks!!!!!
Mark
Mark
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Re: Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
Here are some pictures of a dry run fitting of the brakes.
You can also the end of a spring in the last picture but that is another story!!
Mark
You can also the end of a spring in the last picture but that is another story!!
Mark
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Re: Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
Mark,
Thanks for this - very helpful, and lovely work.
I have several Finney tenders to build, so I am looking forward to the next part of the story, about springing.
Ian
Thanks for this - very helpful, and lovely work.
I have several Finney tenders to build, so I am looking forward to the next part of the story, about springing.
Ian
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Re: Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
The next tender I have to do is a LNER Group standard and that will be sprung rather than the compensated as I find the sprung tenders run more smoothly.
Have the spring/ bearings been fabricated or are you using the holders from David Bradwell and I think the Scalefour soc stores? I have a collection (though I dont know where off the top of my head but they will turn up again!)
Have the spring/ bearings been fabricated or are you using the holders from David Bradwell and I think the Scalefour soc stores? I have a collection (though I dont know where off the top of my head but they will turn up again!)
Doug
Still not doing enough modelling
Still not doing enough modelling
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Re: Finney 3500 Gallon Tender Brakes
I drew up some spring carriers and reaction blocks for the tenders based on the Bill Bedford principle. The middle carrier accommodates a top hat bearing. All I had to was to modify the tender frames so that the rigid axle hole was elongated. The other modification was to remove 0.3mm off the length of the pin point axle to accommodate the extra width of the carriers between the frames. I also had to reduce the boss on the outside of the wheel to get enough clearance. It is tight but it does work.
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