Tim V wrote:All this correspondence - must be an article in there somewhere ...
I will be willing to report to Snooze on my trials mentioned above, when completed, so several months away.
grovenor-2685 wrote:Alan Turner wrote:I find these to be ideal as they are square and therefore rub along the top of the rail better.
Available from any decent art shop.
https://www.derwentart.com/en-gb/c/prof ... l-graphite
or these: https://www.cassart.co.uk/drawing/paste ... gIpnfD_BwE
There is a big difference between graphite and charcoal! I would not use the latter on my track.
I have successfully used the carpenters' pencils, from Dad's workshop.
bécasse wrote:One of the more unexpected discoveries from exhibiting regularly in France has been that French modellers use wine to clean their tracks - and very successfully too.
The procedure is to firstly select a wine which isn't in a screw-capped bottle, secondly drink the wine, sharing it with your fellow modellers, and thirdly use the cork, whole, to clean the tracks. Any dirt disappears into the natural fissures in the cork and, being fairly soft, it doesn't abrade the rail at all. In time, the cork will need replacement but by then everyone will be thirsty again!
You can use plastic corks but the natural (or compressed) ones are best.
(there should be an acute accent over the 'e', but my keyboard can't do accents)
MarkS wrote:(there should be an acute accent over the 'e', but my keyboard can't do accents)
Martin, it's not your keyboard, it is which keys and what order you press them...
Press "Alt" and hold, press "e", let go of the Alt key, and press "e" again. - é
Bill Newstead wrote:To get é press Num Lock on the numeric keypad
Paul Townsend wrote:Bu#@&* the accent. What I need to hear is whether a Louis Jadot cork makes the track cleaner than a cork from Lidl’s plonk! I
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