Magnifying work station - any advice?

[rgmichel]

Due to eyesight that is not up to the standards I want to make models at the standards I want, I have started looking for a solid way to work under magnification. I have looked at lighted magnifiers, hand held, on stands, etc, magnifying eye glasses, video magnifiers, etc. The last are expensive. Reading the forum here, it seems like many use jewelers' eyepieces, or other spectacle-type arrangements with magnifiers.

Do you have experience with magnification of your work while modelling? My main concern is the convenience and clarity of the magnification. It seems like a magnification range of 2x-5x seems adequate for 4mm scale modelling. I have tried using a round magnifying glass, of which I have a couple. One is hand held and about 2.5" in diameter and the other is on a stand and is about 4" in diameter, but the range of undistorted image across these glasses is quite low. You have to move the glass around a lot to see stuff. I imagine head mounted eye magnifiers would be more convenient in this respect. There are some big lenses with LED lights around the periphery that look as though they might work.

The video magnifiers are too expensive, but I observe that they seem to have high quality optics, and computer hookup, so you would be looking at a computer screen while working, with the advantage that the field of vision would be quite stable. I have not had an opportunity to see what a 4 mm scale model would look like under magnification with these things. I tried a small computer video camera but its video resolution was so poor that that the magnified image on a computer was worse than I could see through my worst magnifying glass. I even put a lens between the camera and my 4 mm model but this did not help one bit.

[Jan]

Due to eyesight that is not up to the standards I want to make models at the standards I want, I have started looking for a solid way to work under magnification. I have looked at lighted magnifiers, hand held, on stands, etc, magnifying eye glasses, video magnifiers, etc. The last are expensive. Reading the forum here, it seems like many use jewelers' eyepieces, or other spectacle-type arrangements with magnifiers.

Do you have experience with magnification of your work while modelling? My main concern is the convenience and clarity of the magnification. It seems like a magnification range of 2x-5x seems adequate for 4mm scale modelling. I have tried using a round magnifying glass, of which I have a couple. One is hand held and about 2.5" in diameter and the other is on a stand and is about 4" in diameter, but the range of undistorted image across these glasses is quite low. You have to move the glass around a lot to see stuff. I imagine head mounted eye magnifiers would be more convenient in this respect. There are some big lenses with LED lights around the periphery that look as though they might work.

Hello Bob,

I too have increasing issues with eyesight. I have a desk-mounted magnifier with illumination, and one of those 'third hand' things that take ages to set up (but has a magnifier attached). My most oft-used weapon in the war against weary eyes is the loupe that clips on the right hand lens of my glasses. It's one of the old-fashioned wire framed ones (I got it Goverment issue in the mid-80's), and is therefore able to double as a free-standing magnifier as well. As you have said, none of these things are easy to use (I guess the fact that they are magnifiers will always mean distortion of one form or another), so I believe it's best to just acknowledge the fact, and try to accomodate their idiosincracies in your approach to modelling (I generally set aside about fifteen minutes to get stuff mounted under the magnifier in the third hand variant!).

[andrewnummelin]

I know the feeling... I too have had problems with distortion in "modellers' aids" (I've used several) and ended up going to an optician and asked for advice. Fortunately he has a couple of jewellers as clients so it was not difficult to explain what I needed.

The options that were suitable for me were either a binocular loupe (as used by micro-surgeons, dentists etc.) or simply (too) strong reading glasses and work up close: the advice was to try the latter first as the alternative is very expensive and could make a video set-up seem quite reasonable. I settled for having reading glasses with safety lenses and shields to minimise risks when working very close to drills, slitting discs and other machines - I've been very pleased with this option, the only drawback being that I feel as blind as a bat when looking at anything more than a foot away!

Of course what is right for you will depend on your eyes so I'd advise consulting your optician - I certainly ended up with a solution I did not expect.

[Natalie Graham]

Coming from a history of 2mm and 3mm modelling I have a bit of experience of magnifiers. I don't like the desk mounted ones as you have to keep moving them to get the workpiece in the centre of the field of view at at the right distance to be in focus. I much prefer the headband type. I think it makes so much difference that I can't understand why every modeller doesn't use them.

Mine is a Versator, produced by Mason & Gantlett of Norwich who ceased production at least ten years ago. The lenses are very good quality although the padding on the headband has long worn out and I realy do think it itme to replace the whole thing. The Optivisor which was the alternative back when I bought mine back in the 1980s is still in production and there seem to be some very good German made ones on the market at around £100 if you want to spend more for what seems to be a high quality product.

Good lighting is also imprtant and I use a daylight lamp. aktough the big drawback to this is that the cat regards it as his sunbed and spreads out on the bench to 'sunbathe' leaving me very little room to work even if I can get the model and the tools out from underneath him.

[David B]

I found working under a magnifying glass awkward and loathed these head magnifiers. I then used two pairs of glasses, one over the other.

When I went for new specs after an eye test, I asked the chap if he could make me a pair of bi-focals with the bottom bit the same as my 2 pairs. The resulting specs work wonderfully - I have higher magnification for modelling, my general prescription for slightly longer distance such as reading instructions or the computer, then I can peer over the top for long distance.

I was at Missenden in March and we were discussing this very thing. Several people had particular pairs of 'modelling' specs and all found them much better than head magnifiers and magnifying lamps. We also agreed that good light was a must; as one gets older, more light is needed even for reading and there are many good lamps on the market. Personally, I much prefer a daylight bulb.

[Alan Turner]

Look here: https://www.cousinsuk.com/catalog/6/0/1 ... 918#select

The £16 version is quite adequate.

regards

Alan

[David Thorpe]

I've tried various devices but have settled on what has probably been the cheapest - a pair of £2.99 3x magnification reading glasses bought at a supermarket (Aldi, I think). I only use them for modelling - they perch near the end of my nose so I don't have to look through them when I look up. I find them excellent, though as other have said a good light source is also essential - I use a couple of clip-on halogen lamps. If I'm drilling or doing something that could be potentially hazardous to the eyes, I just wear a set of safety goggles over the glasses.

DT

[Will L]

Ever since I started to have trouble reading the half millimetre divisions on the ruler I've wondered about what I should do about it too. I've wondered about a big desk mounted magnifiers but I hasn't been impressed when I've tried other peoples. I've also considered an Optivisor, but I'm not sure if this actually has any advantage over the Heath Robinson approach that has just developed over the years. Firstly this is the use a big bright desk lamp which makes a really significant difference. When that isn't enough I use a pair of cheap 2.5 dioptre reading specks from the local chemist, worn over my normal prescription glasses. I can work in these quite happily though you do need to get in closer. If all else fails I do have a classic jewellers loop for when I want to take a really close look but it's nearly impossible to do any more than look when using it.

Will

[dal-t]

I'm fortunate in still being at the stage where my natural short-sightedness proves adequate for most modelling tasks, providing I remove my varifocals and get the workpiece close enough to my nose. I do use a loupe for my 'other' hobby of silversmithing, but only to examine progress, not while I'm in the process of forming or soldering. Eventually I expect to go the Optivisor route, but there is another way if you can get your hands on the kit. A few years ago I had a visually impaired member of staff working for me, and her officially provided 'reader' was essentially an OHP prism projecting from a well-lit bed onto a computer-sized screen, with variable magnification but no complicated electronics (just power for the lamp). It looked rather like an inverted sprayhood, and I believe it was a variation on an old-style microfiche reader. When I 'borrowed' it one lunchtime it was superb for applying coach lettering, once I'd got my head around looking at the screen and not directly at the model (which has the added advantage that you're not breathing on the transfers and blowing them away). I would guess most of these have by now been replaced in the 'front line' by PC/video camera combinations, but if you can find a redundant model it would certainly be worth a try.

David L-T

[Terry Bendall]

I have used a head band magnifier for many years, even before I needed reading glasses. I did once borrow an adjustable lamp with a magnifier built in but found that I was looking round it rather than using it correctly. I still prefer the magnifier to using the reading glasses but the other thing is to have a good light. For many year I have had a standard flourescent tube immediately over the work bench which was sufficient but in the last few years I have found an adjustable lamp of the Anglepoise type is needed as well.

On the use of glasses brought off the shelf, although I am no expert, I think it would be better to ask a qualified person for advice. A few years ago i was concerned at possible over- reliance on the head band magnifier and checked with my optician who said it was fine as long as there was good light as well.

Terry Bendall

[Will L]

On the use of glasses brought off the shelf, although I am no expert, I think it would be better to ask a qualified person for advice. A few years ago i was concerned at possible over- reliance on the head band magnifier and checked with my optician who said it was fine as long as there was good light as well.

Hence the use in conjunction with existing prescription specs Terry, and primary importance of a good light. The ability of your eyes to resolve detail increases as the pupil in your eye closes down, so go for good light before optical assistance. I have also asked my optician about this and it seems as long as I don't plan to walk about in the extra specs all day he saw no problem either.

As far as I can work it out the only optical difference between an optivisor and off the shelf reading specs is the distance they are held from your eyes. I was interested to see if anybody was able to comment on whether this difference was significant, as I'm with DaveyTee in balancing the extra pair of specs on the end of my nose.

0Will0

[Natalie Graham]

It is strange but there always seems to be a resistance to use a magnifier, whenver the subject is raised on forums. People comment that they don't need to use one 'yet' or that they can 'manage' without. It seems that magnifiers are viewed as some kind of last resort. It seems too that those who have used them rarely report that they are a bad idea and it is those who haven't who don't se the need for one. I am reminded of the chap doing a demonstration at a show some years ago who was building a model of every class of loco his favoured railway company ever possesed, in O Gauge. He cut all the sheet metal parts by drilling holes around the perimeter and then he filed the intervening metal and then the finished shape. He would not even consider the idea of a piercing saw. He prefered to carry on as he was even though there was a purpose made tool for what he was doing that would have enabled him to save so much time and cut more accurately.

If you are building finely detailed models you need to be able to see what you are doing. The better you can do that the better the results. Good lighting has been mentioned but one doesn't preclude the use of the other. Just as you wouldn't carry on trying to model in a gloomy, unlit corner of a room when you could get a desk lamp to see better, why carry on using natural eyesight when there are purpose made tools which will enhance even perfect 20/20 vision? I must have been about 18 or 19 when I bought my headband magnifier, long before any worries about ageing eyesight, as a result of being offered the use of one to view a 2mm model under construction. The difference it made to how you could see the detail was enough to convince me and I bought one the next day. I would no more think of modelling without it than I would without a steel rule or files.

Why is the Optivisor, or similar, better than the cobbled together alternatives? For the same reason a purpose made scriber is better than a sharpened nail tied to a stick. For what is a very modest outlay (£16 in the link posted earlier) compared to the other tools in the workshop, you can get a properly designed magnifier which should have good optical qualities and be comfortable to use. I would ask why the alternatives are to be preferred.

[allanferguson]

I was recently looking at a model I built about 30 years ago -- an open wagon in plastic, with all the bolt heads applied. And I did it with no aids to vision. Now approaching my three score and ten, I can hardly see the wagon without my glasses...... Now I have an anglepoise type magnifying lamp clamped to my workbench, which I use virtually all the time. Away from the workbench I have an optivisor type of gadget which I find very effective. But a good strong light is vital, as mentioned by Will. Sometimes I use the anglepoise just for the light, without looking through the lens. One other point is that the lenses in most of these gadgets are made of plastic, which scratches easily. The difference between a scratched lens and a new one can be almost literally like night and day.

Allan F

[Re6/6]

I have one of the original 'Optivisors' from the early 50s. I find that using my reading spectacles in conjunction with the Optivisor suits me very well.

They do have the facility to fit lenses of differing focal length, if needed, but I've never found it necessary.

They seem to have changed little and have remained popular over the decades.

http://doneganoptical.com/wp-content/up ... atalog.pdf. They're widely available over here.

[ScottW]

I would agree with everything Natalie has written. When I do any modelling I always wear a head band type magnifier and use an Anglepoise lamp. I don't wear glasses and yet I have been wearing the head band magnifier for many years, and wouldn't do without it. Smaller items are made so much larger and clearer, which can only be a good thing.

Scott

[rgmichel]

Thank you all for this wonderful series of informative comments. In summary, it sounds like the main best options are an anglepoise-type magnifying lamp for combined magnification and bright illumination of the work, and an optivisor for more flexible magnification. It also sounds like off the shelf reading specs might work in conjunction with prescription glasses. All this in conjunction with the modeller's standby, the third hand, and maybe auxiliary illumination with an anglepoise lamp without the magnification.

Again, thanks for all the thoughtful and informative input. I am most grateful.

[rgmichel]

It turns out that the OptiVisor device can be had with either optical quality crown glass lenses, or plastic lenses. I opted for the glass ones, going on my experience with my specs which need careful attention if the plastic is not to be scratched.

Away from the workbench I have an optivisor type of gadget which I find very effective. One other point is that the lenses in most of these gadgets are made of plastic, which scratches easily. The difference between a scratched lens and a new one can be almost literally like night and day.
Allan F

[rgmichel]

I ended up buying a full OptiVisor set that includes a range of lenses, the visor itself, a loupe to swing into place, and what turned out to be a pretty awful LED illumination device. The lens with the least magnification is great in conjunction with my regular specs for reading, with the loupe being useful for that pesky small print. The higher magnification lenses let me look at all sorts of small detail. I am seeing things on my modern Bachmann and Hornby models that I never could see before. Time will tell whether or not one or other of the different magnifications is used more during modelling. As a bonus, I snuck in an additional Visor and loupe for my wife, who is now happily using it to do embroidery. Now we have a full range of lenses to share between the two of us! Invaluable kudos points earned...

I have one of the original 'Optivisors' from the early 50s. I find that using my reading spectacles in conjunction with the Optivisor suits me very well. They do have the facility to fit lenses of differing focal length, if needed, but I've never found it necessary.

[rgmichel]

Jinty_closeup.tif

I have tried to figure out what I achieve using the OptiVisor to look at some small lettering on models. I have attached a picture which is about what I see through a magnification of about 4x using the 2 diopter lens, plus the loupe that I bought with the OptiVisor. When I say I can see this, I mean that I can't see it with my naked eye or with my regular specs. The image here is taken using a Canon 6D camera with a 24-70 mm zoom F2.8L lens set at 70 mm, F2.8 1/80 s on a tripod. The original image was 5472x3072 pixels, while this image is cropped from it and is 240 x 361 pixels. This is from Bachmann's Jinty 32-225W. I am sure I am at the limit of what I can see with the OptiVisor, but this is as much as anyone can need I think. What amazes me is the quality of the imprint on the locomotive. Commercial products have come a long way in recent years.

If you have trouble seeing the image, via download, let me know, as this is the first time I have tried to attach an image on this board.