To jig or not to jig

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Philip Hall
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Re: To jig or not to jig

Postby Philip Hall » Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:34 pm

I built a few Perseverance chassis many years ago and never had much of a problem. They slotted together quite well and compared to others of the time, were very good. They were brass, as I recall, and as Howard says, quite soft, and so things could get a bit bendy if the frames weren't well braced. Compared with todays offerings they were quite basic, although I still have a few Jidenco/Falcon kits I want to build one day, and I dare say that will take me back a couple of decades!

Philip

martin goodall
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Re: To jig or not to jig

Postby martin goodall » Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:41 pm

Philip Hall wrote:I still have a few Jidenco/Falcon kits I want to build one day, and I dare say that will take me back a couple of decades!

Philip


Friends who have built Jidenco kits reported that they replaced once part, then another, then another, until it was a moot point as to whether the resulting model was a Jidenco kit or a scratch-build!

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David B
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Re: To jig or not to jig

Postby David B » Fri Mar 16, 2012 6:32 pm

Would these Jidenco/Falcon chassis perhaps benefit from being assembled on a jig?

David

DavidM
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Re: To jig or not to jig

Postby DavidM » Sat Mar 17, 2012 6:06 am

Like many others, I started off chassis building (25 years ago) with Perseverance and I think got acceptable running, but only after quite a bit of fiddling in some cases. They weren't called "Perseverance" for nothing! After a few Finney/Mitchell kits I built a couple of scratchbuilt chassis using a MDF jig just like that described by Alan Fergusson - and decided this was perhaps the way to go. Then along came the Avonside jig - and I wouldn't do it any other way now! The other methods certainly worked for me, I have a dozen locos to prove it, but for speed, accuracy, good running and enjoyment this is surely the way to go. No looking back... :D

David Murrell

Philip Hall
Posts: 1953
Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2009 7:49 pm

Re: To jig or not to jig

Postby Philip Hall » Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:57 am

Would these Jidenco/Falcon chassis perhaps benefit from being assembled on a jig?


I would think so, as essentially all you've got is a flat piece of metal with no alignment aids whatsoever. I've never had much trouble putting a chassis together but have also been tempted by the Avonside jig. I think though that I will try Allan's homemade version to see how it goes before making the final investment.

Philip

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Will L
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Re: To jig or not to jig

Postby Will L » Sat Mar 17, 2012 10:36 am

davidb wrote:Would these Jidenco/Falcon chassis perhaps benefit from being assembled on a jig?


I suspect not. At the last CAG meeting a different David B was going over the steps need to translate an accurate drawing into an usable etch, and many of the reported issues with Jindenco Kits came to mind. Little things like working out the finished length over a fold, the amount of undercut at the edges, and just how you get the curved bits the right length for instance.

While we had much fun over the years describing the deficiencies in these kits, I've tried to build worse and at least I got a result from my Jidinco kit, even if I wasn't prepared to have a second go, they were very early in the field and there is much more accumulated knowledge now of what works and what doesn't.

Will

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John Bateson
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Re: To jig or not to jig

Postby John Bateson » Sat Mar 17, 2012 11:03 am

Little things like working out the finished length over a fold, the amount of undercut at the edges, and just how you get the curved bits the right length for instance. Will L

While not strictly related to jigs for setting wheel and rod positions, I can thoroughly recommend Hollywood Foundry at http://www.hollywoodfoundry.com/HowToPapers.shtm
While planning to do some etches some 18 months ago I was puzzled at the differences in published opinion in MRJ, Snooze and elsewhere. I think the Hollywood guys are definitive and their HowTo papers are well worth a read, they have been a guiding light to me.

As for getting curved parts the right length, it is surprsing the difference in things like splashers for inside and outside lengths. I have found that the inside length is a better estimate and my CAD package easily does this.
John
Slaving away still on GCR stuff ...

Mark Tatlow
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Re: To jig or not to jig

Postby Mark Tatlow » Sun Mar 18, 2012 11:18 pm

davidb wrote:Would these Jidenco/Falcon chassis perhaps benefit from being assembled on a jig?

David


Of course but it will not change the size of components that are simply wrongly sized. Like the footplate of the HR Barney that is 1.5mm short (bad) and 1.5 too narrow (appalling). I have not looked at the remaining bits yet, but it does not feel good!

I have made up Jidenco/Falcon Brass kits into nice models, but not without a lot of effort and a lot of additional/replacement parts.
Mark Tatlow

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Hardwicke
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Re: To jig or not to jig

Postby Hardwicke » Mon Mar 19, 2012 11:24 am

I did quite well with the Ratio/ Percy 2-4-0 chassis but the 4-4-0 one had the fixed wheel etched 2mm out to it sat too high. I had to adjust that one. It was on display on the Scalefour stand at Nottingham on the Saturday. The Midland 4F chassis went together well and ran well too as did the M7. I built a Branchlines BR 2-6-0 and a scratch BOB/WC and then I took a break from etched chassis building. Like a ten year break and converted diesels instead.
So there are some good Perseverance ones and some not so good.
I have some Jidenco/Falcon Brass to build too. Luckily I have an Avonside jig now.
Ordsall Road (BR(E)), Forge Mill Sidings (BR(M)), Kirkcliffe Coking Plant (BR(E)), Swanage (BR (S)) and Heaby (LMS/MR). Acquired Thorneywood (GNR). Still trying to "Keep the Balance".


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