Buffer Stops
Buffer Stops
Anyone got any recommendations for sourcing BR era buffer stops as used in sidings, suitable for P4 track gauge?
I have looked at Lanarkshire models version, but as my track is already laid down I don't fancy digging it up again to fit the rail lengths.
I have been told Mikes Models do them but not sure if they are a similar design to Lanarkshire.
Ideally something like the Peco design that fits on existing track would be best.
Thanks
Pete
I have looked at Lanarkshire models version, but as my track is already laid down I don't fancy digging it up again to fit the rail lengths.
I have been told Mikes Models do them but not sure if they are a similar design to Lanarkshire.
Ideally something like the Peco design that fits on existing track would be best.
Thanks
Pete
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Re: Buffer Stops
You don't specify period or location, which do make a difference. BR did have standard designs for buffer stops, but until the large scale clearance of redundant track in the later 1960s and the 1970s, following closures and rationalisation, pre-nationalisation and even pre-grouping stops were still in use.
I have a couple of Mikes Models stops, which I can't currently find [still unpacking from a house move], but from memory they are designed specifically for OO in the way they are assembled and would need some alterations for P4. I seem to remember that the running rail is bullhead cast in, but I haven't looked at them for a while. Like the LMS types they are whitemetal, so need isolation. They are much older in origin than the LMS ones, with a much smaller range and less specific in detail. Mikes Models' range disappeared some time ago, but were partially reintroduced by Holt Model Railways from 2007, apparently, so the design may have changed from the one I have. Their current list is here http://www.holtmodelrailways.com/search.php?search=mikes. The picture of MM86 on this site would seem to confirm my memory of cast in running rail.
Noel
I have a couple of Mikes Models stops, which I can't currently find [still unpacking from a house move], but from memory they are designed specifically for OO in the way they are assembled and would need some alterations for P4. I seem to remember that the running rail is bullhead cast in, but I haven't looked at them for a while. Like the LMS types they are whitemetal, so need isolation. They are much older in origin than the LMS ones, with a much smaller range and less specific in detail. Mikes Models' range disappeared some time ago, but were partially reintroduced by Holt Model Railways from 2007, apparently, so the design may have changed from the one I have. Their current list is here http://www.holtmodelrailways.com/search.php?search=mikes. The picture of MM86 on this site would seem to confirm my memory of cast in running rail.
Noel
Regards
Noel
Noel
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Re: Buffer Stops
Not sure which picture you looked at Noel, but this picture of Holt model railways MM79 appears to show the castings clipped over the rail in a similar way to the Peco ones.
Keith
Keith
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Re: Buffer Stops
Pete,
You might find this thread http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1058&p=7110&hilit=rail+built+buffer#p7110 useful, then you can think about bending your own.
Of course some rail-built buffer stops were assembled from cut lengths and heavy plates (see Pete Harvey athttp://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=74
regards,
martin
You might find this thread http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1058&p=7110&hilit=rail+built+buffer#p7110 useful, then you can think about bending your own.
Of course some rail-built buffer stops were assembled from cut lengths and heavy plates (see Pete Harvey athttp://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=74
regards,
martin
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Re: Buffer Stops
grovenor-2685 wrote:Not sure which picture you looked at Noel
MM86 http://www.holtmodelrailways.com/photo.php?code=MM86, Keith (it's in my post).
It may be the design is not the same for all types, or my memory is at fault. As I said, I haven't seen mine for some time.
Noel
Regards
Noel
Noel
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Re: Buffer Stops
This one is pretty common in ex LMS areas and Scotland Pete http://www.lanarkshiremodels.com/lanarkshire%20models%20and%20supplies%20website_144.htm
The one in this picture is more common in ex LNER areas http://www.holtmodelrailways.com/photo.php?code=MM88 although I have a recollection of ordering these from Holts a few years back and getting something completely different. MM92 sounds more like it but sadly there is no photograph
You can of course use any suitable pre grouping bufferstops from your chosen area. On my new layout I'll be sneaking a few ex Caledonian stops in amongst the LMS/BR type ones.
Cheers
David
The one in this picture is more common in ex LNER areas http://www.holtmodelrailways.com/photo.php?code=MM88 although I have a recollection of ordering these from Holts a few years back and getting something completely different. MM92 sounds more like it but sadly there is no photograph
You can of course use any suitable pre grouping bufferstops from your chosen area. On my new layout I'll be sneaking a few ex Caledonian stops in amongst the LMS/BR type ones.
Cheers
David
Modelling Clackmannanshire Railways in 1975
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Re: Buffer Stops
grovenor-2685 wrote:Not sure which picture you looked at Noel, but this picture of Holt model railways MM79 appears to show the castings clipped over the rail in a similar way to the Peco ones.
Keith
That one looks like a Peco one to me Keith!
You have backed yourself into a corner with the stops Pete, most designs had the track as part of the assembly, you may have to bite the bullet and pull up the track. Sleeper spacing was important too.
Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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Re: Buffer Stops
That one looks like a Peco one to me Keith!
May well do, but Holts claim it as Mikes Models. One of the others also looks to be added to extant track.
But I would go your way and dig up the track, not so hard to lift 2 or 3 inches.
Or go for a sleeper built one that can easily be built over the track.
Keith
Re: Buffer Stops
Thanks for the comments and suggestions chaps.
I need to get my thinking cap on and come up with a way that doesn't involve ripping up track work as that could just cause more issues.
Pete
I need to get my thinking cap on and come up with a way that doesn't involve ripping up track work as that could just cause more issues.
Pete
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Re: Buffer Stops
For info, link to a relevant posting in the Guestbook
http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=4263
http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=4263
Regards
Noel
Noel
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Re: Buffer Stops
One suggestion is to cut through the rail so that the part that will support the buffer stop can be slid out of the chairs, or if on soldered track, the rail unsoldered. Cut so that you have long enough piece of rail to be supported on two sleepers before the supports of the buffer stop are fixed. Solder the rail to two pieces of scrap brass or two copper clad sleepers at the correct track gauge. Assemble your chosen design of buffer stop on the rails.
If on chaired track, remove the chairs where the buffer stop is fixed to the running rail, and slide the rails back into the chairs left or re-fix to whatever rail fixing you have used. Then apply cosmetic chairs/rail fixings as required to the buffer stop and the sleepers using a suitable adhesive.
PH Designs make two nice BR buffer stops http://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/in ... duct_id=74
and we used three of these on Elcot Road. In the sidings we used LBSC pattern buffer stops built from scratch. You can see both types at http://www.scalefour.org/scaleforum/2013/elcotroad .
Making scratch built buffer stops is not that difficult. I have recently made three for the new board for Ravenscroft Sidings. A rail bending tool makes things easier but I have done it successfully without. Bending rail to an acute angle can cause it to break but the two parts van be soldered back together again. having made all the components I assemble the buffer stop on rail fixed to copper clad sleepers as above. When it is complete un-solder the copper clad sleepers and replace with what you want to use for the track.
Terry Bendall
If on chaired track, remove the chairs where the buffer stop is fixed to the running rail, and slide the rails back into the chairs left or re-fix to whatever rail fixing you have used. Then apply cosmetic chairs/rail fixings as required to the buffer stop and the sleepers using a suitable adhesive.
PH Designs make two nice BR buffer stops http://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/in ... duct_id=74
and we used three of these on Elcot Road. In the sidings we used LBSC pattern buffer stops built from scratch. You can see both types at http://www.scalefour.org/scaleforum/2013/elcotroad .
Making scratch built buffer stops is not that difficult. I have recently made three for the new board for Ravenscroft Sidings. A rail bending tool makes things easier but I have done it successfully without. Bending rail to an acute angle can cause it to break but the two parts van be soldered back together again. having made all the components I assemble the buffer stop on rail fixed to copper clad sleepers as above. When it is complete un-solder the copper clad sleepers and replace with what you want to use for the track.
Terry Bendall
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Re: Buffer Stops
Terry Bendall wrote:Making scratch built buffer stops is not that difficult. I have recently made three for the new board for Ravenscroft Sidings. A rail bending tool makes things easier but I have done it successfully without. Bending rail to an acute angle can cause it to break but the two parts van be soldered back together again. having made all the components I assemble the buffer stop on rail fixed to copper clad sleepers as above. When it is complete un-solder the copper clad sleepers and replace with what you want to use for the track.
Terry Bendall
Try annealing the rail, it will then bend easily without breaking.
Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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Re: Buffer Stops
I have just, purely by chance, come cross a Mikes Models buffer stop kit in my "track" box.
Sadly, the rail section is grossly over-scale, presumably to match Streamline or whatever, so would look poor when attached to scale rail.
I really think it will be simplest to dig up the short length of track involved and fit some of those nice stops made by Dave Franks. i.e.Lanarkshire Models and Supplies. http://www.lanarkshiremodels.com/
(Dave, can I have my commission in used fivers?)
Ian
Sadly, the rail section is grossly over-scale, presumably to match Streamline or whatever, so would look poor when attached to scale rail.
I really think it will be simplest to dig up the short length of track involved and fit some of those nice stops made by Dave Franks. i.e.Lanarkshire Models and Supplies. http://www.lanarkshiremodels.com/
(Dave, can I have my commission in used fivers?)
Ian
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Re: Buffer Stops
I wouldnt worry about digging up the rail Pete.
Sidings tend to rise up at the bufferstops anyway if you look at the real thing.
HTH
Jim
Sidings tend to rise up at the bufferstops anyway if you look at the real thing.
HTH
Jim
Re: Buffer Stops
A few picture showing how I modified the Buffer stops to suit what I needed to do.
File off the cast stock rail from the casting.
Build up the buffer stop as instructed.
Clamp each side to the true stock rail on the layout.
Fit bufferbeam
Done
Just need to tidy up the adhesive. The pics show right way up when clicked!
Pete
File off the cast stock rail from the casting.
Build up the buffer stop as instructed.
Clamp each side to the true stock rail on the layout.
Fit bufferbeam
Done
Just need to tidy up the adhesive. The pics show right way up when clicked!
Pete
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Re: Buffer Stops
I do like those clamps you used. Where can they be obtained?
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