simplest TOU/tiebar suggestions

[David Thorpe]

I thought I'd let you see my TOU method as no-one else seems to use it - which is probably not insignificant.

Anyway, I use Masokits tiebars. They're not difficult to assemble but they are fiddly and as my examples show, quite a lot of solder gets used. Anyway, if you have a look at the image below, from left to right you'll see a Masokits tiebar, a length of nickle silver strip about 1.6mm wide and 0.55mm thick (salvaged from the waste of an old etch kit - I hoard all offcuts), a very small length of 1.6mm diameter tube, and the finished article. Basically, I solder the tube to the end of the nickle silver strip, cut the latter to a length of about 8mm, and then solder it to the centre of the Masokits tie bar - there's a small isolated square of metal on one side. Hopefully the finished article makes things clear.

I use Tortoise point motors below the baseboard. Accordingly I drill a hole in the baseboard underneath where the tie bar will be and when the tie bar is soldered into position on the turnout the nickle silver strip and tube descends into the hole. I then position the Totoise motor below ensuring that its operating wire goes up through the tube. And that's about it. The second photo shows the completed assembly. As you'll note it is unobtrusive and it works well (when I get round to it I'll put a bit of card over the hole in the basebord leaving just enouth room for the point to operate).

TOU1.jpg

TOU2.jpg

[Hardwicke]

This is what I used on Forge Mill Sidings.
They are held in position by a sliding bar underneath.

IMG20240406125101.jpg

IMG20240406125114.jpg

IMG20240406125047.jpg

[Julian Roberts]

Equally and often overlooked is a blade that is lower than the stock and again in the trailing direction this can lead to derailment as the outer face of a wheel tread can become nipped by the stock rail and lifts its oppo up and off, particularly if the wheel tread edge is sharp and not bevelled as it should be. You would think it impossible to have a blade lower than the stock but all it needs is a fraction

This torpedoes my understanding about undercut blades rising from 0.24mm below rail level to full height over the length of the planing! I believe the NER had this height change happen over a much shorter length of the blade. Must say I haven't so far experienced this malfunction on my turnouts but I haven’t run a lot of light wagon trains yet, still in the building phase as I am. I wonder if this happens it could be mitigated by a properly rounded railhead as per the oft late lamented original profile

[Will L]

Equally and often overlooked is a blade that is lower than the stock and again in the trailing direction this can lead to derailment as the outer face of a wheel tread can become nipped by the stock rail and lifts its oppo up and off, particularly if the wheel tread edge is sharp and not bevelled as it should be. You would think it impossible to have a blade lower than the stock but all it needs is a fraction

This torpedoes my understanding about undercut blades rising from 0.24mm below rail level to full height over the length of the planing! I believe the NER had this height change happen over a much shorter length of the blade. Must say I haven't so far experienced this malfunction on my turnouts but I haven’t run a lot of light wagon trains yet, still in the building phase as I am. I wonder if this happens it could be mitigated by a properly rounded railhead as per the oft late lamented original profile

I think what Chris was referring to is a pretty significant error, with the switch rail far enough below the stock rail top before they meet to catch the edge of the wheel. Don't think it applies to your undercut blades so long as it is properly level with the stock rail top by the time the plaining runs out

[Barry Davis]

As a follow on from my posting yesterday.
With a break from my traditional TOU operation of wire in tube, I have attached a couple of photos showing one of my TOU’s operated by one of the excellent MP1 turnout motors as recommended by Charlie Bishop from his Chadwick model railway layout on YouTube.
I tried to load a short video of the MP1 in operation, but I was unable to load it, Can we post videos to this forum, if so how?
I’m very happy with the operation of my TOU’s either operated by wire in tube or a MP1 turnout motor. The next project on my model to do list is first to lay ballast and then attach the non-operational SR conductor 3rd rail to the sleepers. The last photo shows the west end of my Barnham Station, the pair of tracks going off to the left of the junction are going to be the main line down to the Bognor Regis branch. And to the right, my West Coastway main line to Southampton/Portsmouth and the West Country, passes to the right of the electrical substation and the parked BRCW Crompton locomotive.

[grovenor-2685]

You can post videos to You tube then link to them using the 'youtube' BB code in the button above the composition window.

[Barry Davis]

Hi Keith,

So I would need to open a public YouTube account first, before I’m able to post a video from them to the society pages.

Thank you for your help Keith.

Regards
Barry

[grovenor-2685]

See example at https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=139&t=9184
Videos take up a lot of server space.
The videos on Youtube can be marked as private, which means that a viewer needs the url, they won't turn up in searches.

[Chris Pendlenton]

Will is right, Julian. I referred not to undercut toes which are out of harm's way but further back where a wheel on the blade trails in to converge on a stock rail that is fractionally higher and catches the edge of the tread. Can happen if you like using up odd lengths of old rail in your new construction. Dropped rail tops are also anathema to check rails, particularly likely to feature old offcuts, a habit one should resist. The tread nipping at the blades can be mitigated by a bevelled edge which all wheels should have anyway. I dare say, Will, that coning probably helps also!
Chris P

[Barry Davis]

Hi Keith,
I understand now. It’s easier for us to use the much larger server capacity of YouTube to store our videos.
I’ll just have to sit down and work out how to send a video to YouTube first.
Thank you for the explanation.
Regards
Barry nz

[Will L]

... I dare say, Will, that coning probably helps also! ...

I'm sure it does but if the switch rail is low enough... but its odd things like that you not thinking about that catch you out. I wouldn't be beyond using odd bits of rail either.

[Julian Roberts]

Thank you for the clarification, Chris, and your previous anticipation of it, Will.

Barry - lovely SR unit and junction. Is it a 4COR? I grew up in the land of 2BILs and 4LAVs etc. (Edit - just remembered - of course it's not a 4COR!)

Its easy to share your videos onto YouTube. Once you've done that and want to share it, you can get a link that you can copy. To share it here see this fuller explanation from Keith

What's the technique for attaching YouTubes in the [youtube][/youtube] thing?

Hover the cursor over the 'youtube' button to see the usage, you need the short version. Just use the bit of the url between be/ and the ?
The red bit here,
https://youtu.be/Dckr5agln1g?si=Zar2BxdVBr7kyvlJ

[Barry Davis]

Hello Julian, it’s a 6PAN unit.

In my youthful mid twenties some 55 years ago before time out for marriage and three beautiful daughters, and to starve off boredom, I built with the help of some BSL very basic coach kits and Skinley blue prints, a 4COR unit, a 4BUF unit, and a 6PAN unit to operated on the late Bill Richmond’s (one of the pioneers of the P4 Model Railway Study Group) large P4 layout in the mid 1960’s.

While we complain about the lasting quality of models from China now days, these three units are now well over 55 years old have run literally hundreds of scale miles, each powered by a good old British built Tri-ang motor bogie. The only modification to the motor bogies was the removal of the original Tri-ang wheels with Studiolth coach wheels Araldited in their place, substitution of the 3 pole armature for a 5 pole armature and correct SR side-frames. Then I had to wait nearly 40 years for Hornby to release their 2BIL and 2HAL units and Bachmann to release their green 4CEP and 4BEP units

I must be one of the slowest modellers around, as I am still building but still enjoying my model of Barnham station after 40 years. I'm getting close to completion as I have just need to build 2.5 metres of my version of the start of the 3 mile Bognor Regis branch line, followed by the Barnham goods yard cir.1960’s then hopefully all track laying will be finished.

Looks likeI’m going to get side tracked again to workout this YouTube thing

Regards
Barry (nz)

[Julian Roberts]

Marvellous stuff Barry. My nephew is living in Wellington. My son lived in Christchurch then Queenstown while in NZ. Beautiful country with lovely rail trips still possible.

Ask if you need help re the video process.

[Barry Davis]

Thank you Julian,

I might just take you up on that offer if I get stumped.

I’ve lived here nearly 60 years now. I live in Napier on the east coast of the North Island facing the Pacific Ocean, which is about
325 km, or 4 hours easy drive north of Wellington, New Zealand’s capital.

Yes, New Zealand is a beautiful country and Queenstown in the South Island is really stunning and as a base for skiing, winter sports, hiking and mountaineering.

New Zealand track gauge is only 3ft-6inch and is not that well served by rail. It has quite an extensive freight system but really only three passenger train services which are very expensive and aimed at the tourist market. It has two large commuter rail systems, one in Wellington running on 1,500 volts DC oh and a new commuter rail system in Auckland running on 25kva oh. The majority of main lines outside Auckland and Wellington in New Zealand are single track.