In the interests of keeping rail ends aligned whist other works are carried out, with standard bullhead rail, would 'N' gauge or 'Z' gauge joiners be the best size to use?
Steve
Rail connectors
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Re: Rail connectors
N gauge ones will work well and I have found the DCC Concepts insulated joiners (where required) to be a better fit on bullhead rail than the Peco ones, so would assume that to be true for the nickel silver ones. However, I have used the new Peco bullhead fishplates almost exclusively on all joints on my new layout with success. They grip the rail in the web as well as the foot, unlike N gauge joiners which only grip the foot. Having said that, it's important that they are nice and tight, otherwise there is a slight tendency for the rail to move up and down in them. I also like them for the four embossed bolt heads each side.
I add a wire link, buried in the ballast later, either side of the joint to reinforce conductivity.
Philip
I add a wire link, buried in the ballast later, either side of the joint to reinforce conductivity.
Philip
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Re: Rail connectors
I have also found the Peco SL-114 rail joiners good, but have only used them for permanent fixing.
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Re: Rail connectors
Jol Wilkinson wrote:I have also found the Peco SL-114 rail joiners good, but have only used them for permanent fixing.
I would go further, they are brilliant! And the PECO N joiners for their code 80 FB rail.
I just wish I had those SL-114s when I made all my pointwork. Especially now that I don't care about conductivity.
Ted.
(A purists' purist)
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Re: Rail connectors
Thanks for that guys, I have just got hold of some SL-114s so I will try them out tomorrow night!
Cheers
Steve
Cheers
Steve
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Re: Rail connectors
As an experiment, I omitted power feeds from a rake of dead-end sidings and relied entirely on the SL-114s to carry power to them. It worked perfectly over a period of several years, so now I fit just one dropper to each length of rail and rely on the fishplates as the backup power feed from the adjacent rail.
I also have noted that the -114s allow the rail ends to shift up and down, but I will give them a bit of a squeeze to see if that helps - thanks for the tip, Philip.
Bob
I also have noted that the -114s allow the rail ends to shift up and down, but I will give them a bit of a squeeze to see if that helps - thanks for the tip, Philip.
Bob
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- Posts: 1953
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Re: Rail connectors
Bob, sometimes a squeeze helps but mostly they’re pretty tight already. As for droppers, I’ve not used them at all, just linking wires bridging the fishplates. In the early stages, there were no linking wires and I relied on the fishplates. All that happened was a trifle of voltage drop, sorted later on with the links.
Philip
Philip
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Re: Rail connectors
Well I installed 3 track panels tonight with the SL-114 connectors and they do everything claimed of them! good snug fit on the rail, and they look the part! definitely one of Peco's better efforts. Now, when will they be bringing out RTR P4 flexi=track I wonder....
Steve
Steve
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