I've been watching the Norman Solomon tutorials from virtual Missendon (maybe they are from the Right Track DVDs?) and he is very quick and experienced, obviously, but it's great in that you watch what he does with plastic chairs and can get a sense that it needs great care but can be done. It's the thing that has made me have a go at another test plank to see what works or doesn't for me. I'm re-reading track forum topics and starting in P4 topics and have begun jotting down a list of pointers/threads to come back to. I've realised I need some proper files so delving back in to the various topics on equipment. But again it was cutting rail lengths, trying bends and filing that have given me much more confidence to keep going rather than add to the list of reasons for putting it off. This afternoon I ended up with a 4" stretch of single rail running into checked rail using a few ideas I had for cast rail formation and, while it doesn't look quite right yet, it's given me another idea of maybe how to tackle it. My 10 year old said " you've spent all afternoon doing that tiny thing!" - I nearly pointed out the number of components and work on each and the 3 different ways I'd approached it and how this was the best but perhaps not final approach.....but said "yes, I have" and left it at that.
Andrew
common crossing vee angles
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Re: common crossing vee angles
ben mason wrote: I have always used cork sheet underlay, but I wonder if that’s necessary considering I will be working straight onto the paper template. Once the track is finished the paper will be concealed under paint and ballast I guess.
There seem to be a number of people who glue the paper down with the track on top. I could never see the point of this. The the sleepers are held down onto the template with double sided tape and the finished turnout can be lifted off the template and then glued in place. There is an argument that something larger and more complex is difficult to lift off but it can be done.
I have recently built an assembly that consisted of two tandem turnouts and two plain RH turnouts all built together using riveted sleeper construction. Before trying to remove it from the template I soldered lengths of scrap rail across all the tracks in about eight places so when it was lifted everything stayed together. Once glued down the scrap rail was unsoldered and the tops of the rail cleaned off.
BrockleyAndrew wrote:I've been watching the Norman Solomon tutorials from virtual Missendon (maybe they are from the Right Track DVDs?) and he is very quick and experienced,
There would have been a time, probably many years ago, when Norman built his first piece of track and had no previous experience. We learn and get quicker by doing the job. The longest part of the job described above was marking out, punching and riveting the sleepers but the rest was quite quick.
BrockleyAndrew wrote:I've realised I need some proper files
Some people will use a large file, perhaps an 8 inch one. I find I can work successfully with a 4 inch second cut and a 4 inch smooth cut but it is a personal choice. Nice new files, with a handle are a joy to use.
BrockleyAndrew wrote:But again it was cutting rail lengths, trying bends and filing that have given me much more confidence to keep going
The engineer's solution - Just ********** do it! Reading about it is helpful but you only learn by doing.
Terry Bendall
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Re: common crossing vee angles
I agree completely, Terry, too much theorising and too many test planks. You can end up trying to build the perfect model and never getting anywhere. The first turnout you make won't be as good as the 20th so the sooner you start the better. Priorities change when you're building a complete layout.
DaveB
DaveB
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Re: common crossing vee angles
Terry and Dave, quite right. It has taken me a while to get on with track building but once started, bits fall off the production line fairly steadily. I have just started on the 50 or so half metre lengths of track I shall need for the storage sidings, most of them dead straight so I am building them in a jig that way with double spacing. The biggest problem is getting them dead straight despite using lots of straight edges, but practice is making (almost) perfect. I can then lay them just like Peco Streamline.
Underlay has been mentioned. Can I ask if anyone has got any recommendations for bonding cork to white Contiboard? I don’t want a glue that soaks into the cork too much as that will remove some of the resilience. In the case of the storage yards it will be whole sheets of cork covering the entire board, out in the country it will just be strips or sections.
Philip
Underlay has been mentioned. Can I ask if anyone has got any recommendations for bonding cork to white Contiboard? I don’t want a glue that soaks into the cork too much as that will remove some of the resilience. In the case of the storage yards it will be whole sheets of cork covering the entire board, out in the country it will just be strips or sections.
Philip
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Re: common crossing vee angles
Thanks Terry, I was browsing the tools and equipment section of this forum but will get the two files you mentioned to start off with.
Thanks again
Andrew
Thanks again
Andrew
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Re: common crossing vee angles
Time Bond glue Phillip? The Evo stuff in tins rather than tubes. Or something equivalent.
BTW, when watching the Norman Solomon videos in the virtual S4Um, I'm sure he said that he purchases ready made blades rather than filing them up himself? If I'm correct I must admit to being a bit surprised at this.
BTW, when watching the Norman Solomon videos in the virtual S4Um, I'm sure he said that he purchases ready made blades rather than filing them up himself? If I'm correct I must admit to being a bit surprised at this.
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Re: common crossing vee angles
Thanks Paul, I’ll try the Timebond. And yes, Norman does (or did, not sure if they’re still available) buy his blades. I think it was a question of the time taken to file up his own against machined ones ready to go.
Philip
Philip
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Re: common crossing vee angles
I remember reading or being told that Norman had his blades specially finished, that was in the days of Brian Lewis, so am not sure if the changes in regime has changed this or not.
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Re: common crossing vee angles
Where can you buy ready made blades? I need a pair of E switches...
Edit. Just looked at Borgrail website. So no need to reply, anyone.
Edit. Just looked at Borgrail website. So no need to reply, anyone.
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