Scalefour Forum

I need to install two replacement FPLs on Ulpha. Just wondering what is available out there in the form of kits - and what they look like. Ideally, I need Economical FPLs i.e. one that is operated with the same lever as the points. I am happy to install non-working models.

I found FPL kits listed in the Masokits and Ambis price lists. The only Economical FPL I found listed is in the Ambis list, but marked NYA.

Does anyone have photos of any of the available kits please, ideally completed - or details of other sources of FPL kits that I have overlooked? I already have drawings, so could probably scratchbuild if necessary, I guess.

FPLs normally have a cover to protect the FPL so you can't actually see it.

regards

Alan

Very true Alan. The various connections etc outside the cover will show though? These should be different depending on the type of lock and what it is connected with?

Alan Turner wrote:FPLs normally have a cover to protect the FPL so you can't actually see it.

regards

Alan

Not all Railway Company’s covered their FPL’s. The Southern didn’t for example.

Steve Carter wrote:Not all Railway Company’s covered their FPL’s. The Southern didn’t for example.

Glad you said that Steve .... I might be wrong but I was sure on the trip into Marylebone yesterday that i saw a number of FPLs 'in the rude' ... but from the comments above assumed I must have been mistaken .... of course assuming I wasn't

Here is what could be termed an economic FPL, one lever moves the switch and sets the lock.

Note the colour of the lever.

Here's what the Ambis FPL kit looks like made up:

Many thanks That is just the information I wanted

CDGFife wrote:Here's what the Ambis FPL kit looks like made up:

CS-15-8-11.jpg

CS-15-8-13.jpg

I've just started working with one of these etches and I've hit a couple of problems. I'm not attempting to make them functional, so it's just assembly difficulties.

My initial approach was:
- form the lock bar and fill the gaps between the horizontal and vertical bits
- pin a lever to the lock bar (16 times!)
- form the brackets that fix to the rails
- attach the levers to the brackets (pin or just solder?)
- fix the bar to the rail.
The alternative of starting by fixing the brackets to the rail and then adding the lock bar would, I thought, be difficult because of the need to space the brackets at exactly the same spacing as the hole etched into the lock bar.

The T shaped etches for the bracket attached to the rails is extremely difficult to fold up especially the bottom U to get the holes to line up. Hints on how to do this would be appreciated. This is made more difficult by the half etches on the rail side of the clip proving to be fragile, any tweaking of the bracket results in one of these fracturing.

Initial fiddling suggest that when assembled the L, rather than T, shaped lock bar will foul the chairs resulting in the bar standing so far from the rail that a flange would run between it and the rail.

I've had these difficulties on the bench with just a piece of rail but I'll have to fit the bars to track already in place on a club layout: I expect the assembly sequence will make some of Masokits etches feel like a stroll in the park!

Am I approaching the assembly incorrectly?

Andrew,
It was quite a few years ago when I built the FPL pictured for Cadhay so I'm dredging my memory here, but I do recall that fouling bar being a right PITA. As you suggest the brackets are very prone to breaking as are the cams/levers and I'm pretty sure not all on the Cadhay bar are intact but enough are to make it work. I'm pretty sure I abandoned the brackets and drilled the rail to take wire lengths to rotate the cams on but I can't get at Cadhay at the moment to check.
I'm sure I ended up using the L shaped bar but to get over your stated difficulties I recall that I also had to space it away from the rail, however when mine moves up and over with the lock it does contact (and lifts, because the physics does not scale) the wheel flange of the vehicle. So it does work, but it derails the vehicle standing on it rather than making the lever un-pullable!! Several photos I've seen of prototype Fouling Bars do show a small gap to the rail

Sorry that's not more helpful, but I do clearly remember thinking "hope I don't have to do another one of these" once it was fitted.

Good luck

Chris

Didn't Steve Hall describe these in a 2 parter on point rodding a long while ago in MRJ?

DaveB

davebradwell wrote:Didn't Steve Hall describe these in a 2 parter on point rodding a long while ago in MRJ?

Issues 113 & 115

John Donnelly wrote:

davebradwell wrote:Didn't Steve Hall describe these in a 2 parter on point rodding a long while ago in MRJ?

Issues 113 & 115

Thanks, I've found them in my filing system and I'll be reading them tomorrow!

CDGFife wrote:Andrew,
It was quite a few years ago when I built the FPL pictured for Cadhay so I'm dredging my memory here, but I do recall that fouling bar being a right PITA. As you suggest the brackets are very prone to breaking as are the cams/levers and I'm pretty sure not all on the Cadhay bar are intact but enough are to make it work. I'm pretty sure I abandoned the brackets and drilled the rail to take wire lengths to rotate the cams on but I can't get at Cadhay at the moment to check.
I'm sure I ended up using the L shaped bar but to get over your stated difficulties I recall that I also had to space it away from the rail, however when mine moves up and over with the lock it does contact (and lifts, because the physics does not scale) the wheel flange of the vehicle. So it does work, but it derails the vehicle standing on it rather than making the lever un-pullable!! Several photos I've seen of prototype Fouling Bars do show a small gap to the rail

Sorry that's not more helpful, but I do clearly remember thinking "hope I don't have to do another one of these" once it was fitted.

Good luck

Chris

Chris, thanks for this. I saw at Scaleforum that Faringdon has FPLs installed and I was offered the opportunity to go round the back of the layout and to take a couple of photos of what would actually be visible to the public. I came to the conclusion that the cams/levers to make the bar work were not actually visible. And they confirmed that fitting them was indeed a PITA and an experience not to be repeated. I've proposed to my club that we don't fit all the tiny bits: that was agreed. Hopefully I'll make up just one to start with and see how it looks.