Turnout construction - Bullhead rail.
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 12:23 am
DEAR ALL. THE AIM OF THIS THREAD IS TO FOCUS ON THE VARIOUS STAGES OF CONSTRUCTING A TURNOUT. I UNDERSTAND THAT YOU MAY WISH TO ASK QUESTIONS AND SO HAVE NOW SET UP A SEPARATE TOPIC FOR THIS PURPOSE IN THE HOPE OF NOT INTERRUPTING THE FLOW OF THIS THREAD, WHICH I HOPE WILL BECOME A USEFUL REFERENCE SOURCE.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR CO-OPERATION.
Questions Thread
It has been my intention to update the society digest sheets covering Turnout construction for some time now. The meanderings of my Brimsdown thread into P&C (Point and Crossing) territory have convinced me of the need to explore this subject as a separate issue, hence this thread. It is my intent to break the subject down into parts. Starting with the tools I use, (of which there are quite a few) then the timbering and the Crossing Vee and its components. Whether I cover the rest of the turnout as a single thread or start a separate topic is something I have yet to decide.
Let me also apologise for the variability of some of the photographs. Indoor lighting is not the best to work under, but these dull winter days leave little option and close ups with macro lenses add another element of difficulty. Digital cameras amaze me sometimes with their capabilities. At least one can check the results quickly and try again to get a better result.
TOOLS.
Here are some pictures of my standard track building tool kit. It is possible to build track with fewer tools than this, but this collection has been amassed over a considerable period of time and they all have their uses, which I shall explain as I go.
Indelible marker pens (fine and coarse) for marking the rail. A selection of files mostly needle files. The large file is used for the switch blades, which I shall come to later.
Abrasive blocks and society filing jigs for Crossings and switch blades.
This is a bit of a bone of contention. A well used Exactoscale Crossing Vee assembly jig.
I find this item so very useful and yet it is currently unavailable. Etched in Stainless steel, one can solder Vees together with impunity knowing that the solder will not stick to it, unless that is you plan to use stainless steel rail. Prior to this, I needed to carry around a block of chipboard with a variety of crossing angle stuck to it with double sided tape if I was doing a demo.
A selection of gauges and fine drawing pens to mark the timbering.
Cutters and pliers.
The all important press and punch tool, in this case the Joe Brook Smith pattern.
The wooden block (supplied) holds the press tool at a more comfortable working angle. The only problem is that it also covers the holding screws for the combined punch a closure tool, so don't glue the block on permanently. I use foam double sided tape.
The soldering kit. The flux I use is Carrs orange label. This is a Rosin based flux that leaves behind a non corrosive residue. It can be removed or thinned with Meths if desired. I do not use an acid flux even for steel rail.
The double sided tape that I use. 12mm. This can be obtained on line from http://www.craftcreations.com.
Keep it in the bag between use as this helps prevent the adhesive drying out.
TIMBERING.
The template is stuck it down on a sheet of 6mm MDF with Pritt stick at the corners only, double sided tape is attached as shown.
The subject of this exercise will be the B-10 turnout at the bottom.
This unimposing little device is a jig to check for invalid timber lengths. The hashed area is the length between the longest standard timber and twice the shortest length, at least for 8'6" timbering. If you end up with a remnant in the no go zone, it won't fit anywhere, with the possible exception of a tandem turnout.
A selection of leftovers from a previous session, to be used first of possible.
The usable ones in place with the remainder compared with the test strip. The longer ones will be cut in two for shorter lengths, but the two to the left are in the no go zone. They will be cut down.
A long timber in place on the template.
Place the blade in position where the timber requires to be cut and press firmly down. By pulling up on the outer end whilst under tension, the timber will break cleanly.
The amount of pressure applied may be judged by the depth of the cut in the timber when the blade was removed before breaking the timber. It is roughly the thickness of the first layer of the ply.
All the timbers cut to length.
All the timbers are marked with a 0.2mm drawing pen to show where the rivet positions should be. I have only shown the crossing area as this is the part I shall be concentrating on first. The long line on the C timber is where a larger headed rivet will go.
The rivet press in action, punching the holes. The design has a self centring action by pushing the timber to one side. I proceed one timber at a time. Remove one, punch and rivet it, then replace and do the next and so on.
The fancy little gadget for placing the rivets into the holes. It is sprung loaded, so the action is fairly obvious. Place through timber into rivet shaft and press home. Not the sharpest of pictures.
Setting the rivets. I will of course align the rivets a bit better before pressing down. When closing the rivets is important to get consistent results. This is where a press tool scores, although even here there can be small variations between both sides when closing two rivets at once. Consistent pressure is the key. Even so I do still occasionally have to turn a timber round and repeat the pressing action.
The finished result. Note the single large rivet on the C timber, (third from the crossing nose) rather than using two standard rivets that would need the head cut down in width. This does happen with the check rail rivets and the blue handled flush face cutters are ideal for this task.
Finally give everything a clean with an abrasive block, then sweep off the debris with the dust brush, prior to the next step which will be fabricating and fitting the rails for the crossing area.
The cleaning blocks I use are made by Schleiffix (Klingspor). I have tried other makes, but some tend to leave a rubbery deposit on the surface afterwards. If the block smells of rubber it has too much solvent in it. These ones do not smell and are much drier as a consequence. This particular one is 60 grit, which is really too coarse. 120 grit would be better with a 240 grit for final cleaning up.
Tony.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR CO-OPERATION.
Questions Thread
It has been my intention to update the society digest sheets covering Turnout construction for some time now. The meanderings of my Brimsdown thread into P&C (Point and Crossing) territory have convinced me of the need to explore this subject as a separate issue, hence this thread. It is my intent to break the subject down into parts. Starting with the tools I use, (of which there are quite a few) then the timbering and the Crossing Vee and its components. Whether I cover the rest of the turnout as a single thread or start a separate topic is something I have yet to decide.
Let me also apologise for the variability of some of the photographs. Indoor lighting is not the best to work under, but these dull winter days leave little option and close ups with macro lenses add another element of difficulty. Digital cameras amaze me sometimes with their capabilities. At least one can check the results quickly and try again to get a better result.
TOOLS.
Here are some pictures of my standard track building tool kit. It is possible to build track with fewer tools than this, but this collection has been amassed over a considerable period of time and they all have their uses, which I shall explain as I go.
Indelible marker pens (fine and coarse) for marking the rail. A selection of files mostly needle files. The large file is used for the switch blades, which I shall come to later.
Abrasive blocks and society filing jigs for Crossings and switch blades.
This is a bit of a bone of contention. A well used Exactoscale Crossing Vee assembly jig.
I find this item so very useful and yet it is currently unavailable. Etched in Stainless steel, one can solder Vees together with impunity knowing that the solder will not stick to it, unless that is you plan to use stainless steel rail. Prior to this, I needed to carry around a block of chipboard with a variety of crossing angle stuck to it with double sided tape if I was doing a demo.
A selection of gauges and fine drawing pens to mark the timbering.
Cutters and pliers.
The all important press and punch tool, in this case the Joe Brook Smith pattern.
The wooden block (supplied) holds the press tool at a more comfortable working angle. The only problem is that it also covers the holding screws for the combined punch a closure tool, so don't glue the block on permanently. I use foam double sided tape.
The soldering kit. The flux I use is Carrs orange label. This is a Rosin based flux that leaves behind a non corrosive residue. It can be removed or thinned with Meths if desired. I do not use an acid flux even for steel rail.
The double sided tape that I use. 12mm. This can be obtained on line from http://www.craftcreations.com.
Keep it in the bag between use as this helps prevent the adhesive drying out.
TIMBERING.
The template is stuck it down on a sheet of 6mm MDF with Pritt stick at the corners only, double sided tape is attached as shown.
The subject of this exercise will be the B-10 turnout at the bottom.
This unimposing little device is a jig to check for invalid timber lengths. The hashed area is the length between the longest standard timber and twice the shortest length, at least for 8'6" timbering. If you end up with a remnant in the no go zone, it won't fit anywhere, with the possible exception of a tandem turnout.
A selection of leftovers from a previous session, to be used first of possible.
The usable ones in place with the remainder compared with the test strip. The longer ones will be cut in two for shorter lengths, but the two to the left are in the no go zone. They will be cut down.
A long timber in place on the template.
Place the blade in position where the timber requires to be cut and press firmly down. By pulling up on the outer end whilst under tension, the timber will break cleanly.
The amount of pressure applied may be judged by the depth of the cut in the timber when the blade was removed before breaking the timber. It is roughly the thickness of the first layer of the ply.
All the timbers cut to length.
All the timbers are marked with a 0.2mm drawing pen to show where the rivet positions should be. I have only shown the crossing area as this is the part I shall be concentrating on first. The long line on the C timber is where a larger headed rivet will go.
The rivet press in action, punching the holes. The design has a self centring action by pushing the timber to one side. I proceed one timber at a time. Remove one, punch and rivet it, then replace and do the next and so on.
The fancy little gadget for placing the rivets into the holes. It is sprung loaded, so the action is fairly obvious. Place through timber into rivet shaft and press home. Not the sharpest of pictures.
Setting the rivets. I will of course align the rivets a bit better before pressing down. When closing the rivets is important to get consistent results. This is where a press tool scores, although even here there can be small variations between both sides when closing two rivets at once. Consistent pressure is the key. Even so I do still occasionally have to turn a timber round and repeat the pressing action.
The finished result. Note the single large rivet on the C timber, (third from the crossing nose) rather than using two standard rivets that would need the head cut down in width. This does happen with the check rail rivets and the blue handled flush face cutters are ideal for this task.
Finally give everything a clean with an abrasive block, then sweep off the debris with the dust brush, prior to the next step which will be fabricating and fitting the rails for the crossing area.
The cleaning blocks I use are made by Schleiffix (Klingspor). I have tried other makes, but some tend to leave a rubbery deposit on the surface afterwards. If the block smells of rubber it has too much solvent in it. These ones do not smell and are much drier as a consequence. This particular one is 60 grit, which is really too coarse. 120 grit would be better with a 240 grit for final cleaning up.
Tony.