Prefabricated K-crossings

Discuss the prototype and how to model it.
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Paul Willis
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Re: Prefabricated K-crossings

Postby Paul Willis » Wed Sep 14, 2016 7:51 pm

QuentinD wrote:P.S., Why doesn't steel like my thin electronics solder? I found it necessary to use miniscule amounts of flux to get the job done, but by the corrosion it looks like I brushed the rail sides with it! The tops are clear, but I've been using 400-grit to clean the sides.

Thanks,
Quentin


Nicely done Quentin...

As someone who has tried steel rail and failed (one of these days I'll post the pictures and the story) then I understand your pain.

Even though you are using tiny amounts of flux, what happens when you apply the iron to the flux is it boils off from the joint. It will then splatter over more of the rail, and you may even have flux vapour condensing back on the rail.

I would suggest (if you're not doing it already) using a suitable neutralising agent and a very good scrub in running water, followed by a thorough drying with a blast from a hairdryer or similar.

HTH,
Flymo (not a fan of steel rail, no matter how good it looks)
Beware of Trains - occasional modelling in progress!
www.5522models.co.uk

CornCrake
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Re: Prefabricated K-crossings

Postby CornCrake » Thu Sep 15, 2016 4:56 pm

I have also made a pair of pre-fabricated K-Crossings, and used them in a scissors crossing formation. I used "track" gauges when fixing, and upon reflection should have used "check" gauges to get correct distance.
What is the correct procedure?

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RobM
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Re: Prefabricated K-crossings

Postby RobM » Fri Sep 16, 2016 8:11 am

QuentinD wrote:Well, I'm working through my first single slip. I tried and (I think I) succeeded in putting together my first K-crossing, using a bastardized variant of Howard Bolton's esteemed method.

Though I fear I've soldered myself into a corner here--how will I be able to go about building the other one? Do I use the check and track gauges (triangular gauges don't fit...), or can I build as I did before, using the flangeway gauges and hair clips? Obviously the other slip rail will have to be set off the existing one somehow. Ideas?
Quentin


I also use a variant of Howard's method. Not claiming to be an expert in track building but being able produce track that works I would start by building and fixing down the 2 common crossings with their opposite rails, then fit the first K crossing. From there on you should be able to fix the second K using gauges. I use the flange way gauge and a few of the Exactoscale roller gauges (E4XX TG02). I also use a combination of rivets and functional chairs. Rivets are strategically used in conjunction with Palatine Model's rail droppers to provide electrical feed. Rivets also provide support under the likes of the common crossing nose albeit not soldered.
That is the way I would do it and hope that helps.
Rob

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grovenor-2685
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Re: Prefabricated K-crossings

Postby grovenor-2685 » Fri Sep 16, 2016 8:38 am

CornCrake wrote:I have also made a pair of pre-fabricated K-Crossings, and used them in a scissors crossing formation. I used "track" gauges when fixing, and upon reflection should have used "check" gauges to get correct distance.
What is the correct procedure?

If you have set the crossing flangeways correctly with the CF gauge, then either the Track Gauge or Check Gauge can be used and should produce the same result.
Regards
Regards
Keith
Grovenor Sidings


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