Building a Double Slip

Discuss the prototype and how to model it.
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Russ Elliott
Posts: 930
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2011 6:38 pm

Re: Building a Double Slip

Postby Russ Elliott » Mon Sep 26, 2016 4:07 pm

Nice.
Enigma wrote:Now all I've got to do is lay it, wire it and fit tie bars.

Suggest fit the tie bars and the dropper wires first, while you can get at the undersides.

Enigma
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 2:49 pm

Re: Building a Double Slip

Postby Enigma » Mon Sep 26, 2016 5:36 pm

Thanks for the advice Russ but I've got my methods which have served me well for many years :)

Actually, I'm still not sure what 'tie-bar' system I will use. I used to make my own using aluminium curtain rail and milled perspex sliders but nowadays the curtain rail appears to be as available as the proverbial Rocking Horse waste. Movement will be provided by servos powered by a MegaPoints system which I am hoping (after a not insignificant 'investment') will offer a very simple method of powering and controlling the whole layout. I haven't got a clue how the modules work - and don't particularily want to! A bit like my missus who doesn't really know how her car works but just accepts that it does if she follows the correct procedures.

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grovenor-2685
Posts: 2945
Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 8:02 pm

Re: Building a Double Slip

Postby grovenor-2685 » Mon Sep 26, 2016 7:03 pm

I have found these, http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=922&product_id=2413 to be a good alternative to the curtain rail design and I have adapted them to use with Servos without difficulty.
Regards

JFS
Posts: 561
Joined: Wed Dec 16, 2009 3:47 pm

Re: Building a Double Slip

Postby JFS » Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:54 pm

billbedford wrote:Maybe, but I've heard stories about baseboards being mishandled (i.e. dropped) when being taken to shows and all the solder joints on rivet and ply track breaking.....


Since all the world pulled you to pieces Bill, I will come to your support! This "story" is true - I know the layout, and the Men who were there on the day.

This was in the very early days of P4, the rivets were Studiolith tinned steel. Investigation showed that the failure was not due to the soldering but was the tinning breaking away from the steel. However, the board was not dropped - it is my understanding that a sleeve was involved.

I would not hold your breath for any apologies from the vituperative assailants though if I were you Bill...

I had lots of these rivets fail in the early days (usually the ones to which the "wiring connector strip" or "Turnout bonding strip" were soldered. So the first evidence of disaster was when everything went dead. Hence as soon as functional plastic chairs came available, I threw the rivets in a drawer. They are still there if any one wants to buy them...

It was only a decade or two later that I learned that better rivets were now available...

Maybe nostalgia is not what it once was... But then I never had any issue with K&L chairs - still have a bag or two of them and they are all fine.


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