Modelling loose heeled switches in 4mm

Discuss the prototype and how to model it.
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Martin Wynne
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Re: Modelling loose heeled switches in 4mm

Postby Martin Wynne » Wed Feb 27, 2019 5:31 am

seanmcs wrote:I'd like to explore the GWR turnouts on Templot. Possibly would save me making up my own templates, as the printed ones are unsuitable. Can I look at it with a Mac?

Hi Sean,

Yes, there are 3 ways to run Templot on a Mac. Full details at:

http://templot.com/companion/for_you.php

cheers,

Martin.
40 years developing Templot. And counting ...

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Dave K
Posts: 206
Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 6:11 pm

Re: Modelling loose heeled switches in 4mm

Postby Dave K » Wed Feb 27, 2019 1:27 pm

seanmcs wrote:The switch rails need to be filed in the special loose heeled filing jig. This produces a switch rail that has its flat face to correspond with the straight of the stock rail. The running surface is concave curved at the radius of the switch rail for the selected turnout. These radii are in Smith's GWR Switch and Crossing practice.

Attached is a photo of the jig produced by my good friend Roger Sanders, of “Mint Gauge” fame, to make the “GW Old Type Curved Switch Blades” used on Hallatrow, and an example of a switch blade.

5011573B-C0F5-4853-BC27-F8F26B5B89D3.jpeg


Dave

seanmcs
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 12:57 am

Re: Modelling loose heeled switches in 4mm

Postby seanmcs » Sun Mar 03, 2019 7:27 am

Thanks for the picture of the loose heeled filing template. We will take a look at a couple we have here in Sydney next month, in our regular Sydney meeting. I wobder if they are now available again? With instructions.

Turning to the Brian Morgan joggling fret, Craig W was expectant, having failed to make any joggle with these frets.

Meanwhile I brought a section of early iteration of C & L Hi-NS rail, in a profile that does not splay out the C & L chairs at all. A small vice and some robust Alu alloy jaw covers, as suggested by Brian Morgan. Put a section of the rail into the fret to produce the GWR joggle, and screwed down the vice as tightly as possible. Result: Mangled fret, and no visible nor finger feelable joggle. Then tried using the top of the vice as an anvil and tapping hard with a machinist's hammer: Another mangled fret and a bit of bent rail. David M opined that the NS was probably as hard as the brass fret, and a much more robust profile then the 0.2mm flat brass. Maybe the fret is designed with soft steel rail in mind?

He demonstrated a jig that uses a couple of short sections of rail in parallel, a rail section placed thereupon and a screwdriver then tapped with the machinist's hammer. With practice, can do the job.

Any other solutions, please? I've read about small slivers of brass in a vice, but maybe the same problem with resistant NS rail?

David M printed out some Templot versions of the GWR loose heeled B7 turnout that will be studied closely . Probably my Timber Tracks B7 laser cut bases won't quite work.

All work in progress.

Sean

junctionmad
Posts: 255
Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2015 3:38 pm

Re: Modelling loose heeled switches in 4mm

Postby junctionmad » Tue Mar 05, 2019 12:18 am

seanmcs wrote:Thanks for the picture of the loose heeled filing template. We will take a look at a couple we have here in Sydney next month, in our regular Sydney meeting. I wobder if they are now available again? With instructions.

Turning to the Brian Morgan joggling fret, Craig W was expectant, having failed to make any joggle with these frets.

Meanwhile I brought a section of early iteration of C & L Hi-NS rail, in a profile that does not splay out the C & L chairs at all. A small vice and some robust Alu alloy jaw covers, as suggested by Brian Morgan. Put a section of the rail into the fret to produce the GWR joggle, and screwed down the vice as tightly as possible. Result: Mangled fret, and no visible nor finger feelable joggle. Then tried using the top of the vice as an anvil and tapping hard with a machinist's hammer: Another mangled fret and a bit of bent rail. David M opined that the NS was probably as hard as the brass fret, and a much more robust profile then the 0.2mm flat brass. Maybe the fret is designed with soft steel rail in mind?

He demonstrated a jig that uses a couple of short sections of rail in parallel, a rail section placed thereupon and a screwdriver then tapped with the machinist's hammer. With practice, can do the job.

Any other solutions, please? I've read about small slivers of brass in a vice, but maybe the same problem with resistant NS rail?

David M printed out some Templot versions of the GWR loose heeled B7 turnout that will be studied closely . Probably my Timber Tracks B7 laser cut bases won't quite work.

All work in progress.

Sean

I’ve tricked around with shim steel ( you could use feeler gauges ) and a big machinist vice. Easy to over do things , but it works

Phil O
Posts: 220
Joined: Sun May 05, 2013 5:23 pm

Re: Modelling loose heeled switches in 4mm

Postby Phil O » Sat Mar 09, 2019 8:47 am

I soldered some 10 thou wire to a couple of pieces of brass with an end stop on one the correct distance from the joggle to the rail end, also drilled the brass and fitted pegs to keep the bits in alignment. Sorry I can't post a picture, but I am away at my parents and due back home on Tuesday. I will try and remember to take a picture or two.

Phil.

Winander
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Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2014 12:19 pm

Re: Modelling loose heeled switches in 4mm

Postby Winander » Sat Mar 09, 2019 7:43 pm

seanmcs wrote:
Can I look at it with a Mac?


Sean,

I run Templot on a late 2011 Macbook Pro using wine. The OS is Mavericks 10.9.5

If you install wine in your users directory, you can run it with the command below - note you have to substitute <your username>. If you put the command in a script called templot.sh, you can then put that script on the Dock...

wine /Users/<your username>/.wine/drive_c/TEMPLOT_DEV/templot_2.exe

hope that helps, PM me if you have any problems.
Richard

Phil O
Posts: 220
Joined: Sun May 05, 2013 5:23 pm

Re: Modelling loose heeled switches in 4mm

Postby Phil O » Wed Mar 13, 2019 2:22 pm

Phil O wrote:I soldered some 10 thou wire to a couple of pieces of brass with an end stop on one the correct distance from the joggle to the rail end, also drilled the brass and fitted pegs to keep the bits in alignment. Sorry I can't post a picture, but I am away at my parents and due back home on Tuesday. I will try and remember to take a picture or two.

Phil.



Here's a couple of photos of my rough and ready joggling jig.

Jig 1.jpg




Phil.
Attachments
jig 2.jpg
Last edited by Phil O on Wed Mar 13, 2019 6:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Phil O
Posts: 220
Joined: Sun May 05, 2013 5:23 pm

Re: Modelling loose heeled switches in 4mm

Postby Phil O » Wed Mar 13, 2019 2:24 pm

I have no idea why it' put two of photo one in the post.

Phil

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grovenor-2685
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 8:02 pm

Re: Modelling loose heeled switches in 4mm

Postby grovenor-2685 » Wed Mar 13, 2019 2:49 pm

Phil,
It would be finger trouble, you did the 'place in line' twice, but both times for the same image, hence the other image just appears at the bottom.
You can just go back in and edit it.
Regards

Phil O
Posts: 220
Joined: Sun May 05, 2013 5:23 pm

Re: Modelling loose heeled switches in 4mm

Postby Phil O » Wed Mar 13, 2019 6:42 pm

grovenor-2685 wrote:Phil,
It would be finger trouble, you did the 'place in line' twice, but both times for the same image, hence the other image just appears at the bottom.
You can just go back in and edit it.
Regards


Hi Keith,

I have now sorted it, I saw two attachments and thought it was one of each, but turned out to be two of one.

Thanks

Phil.


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