Your solution looks OK.
Thank you Keith. That is what I was hoping to hear.
I am sure you will spot further issues - please feel free to let me know.
Tonycardall wrote:The nibs are nominally the same thickness as the tappets. Therefore, the nibs that are to be effected by the swinging bit (?) attached to the tappet, do not actually come into contact with it. I can't tell from your photos but I assume that the nibs need to be doubled in thickness for it to work.
I think that I can see in your images that the small circle in the fret is sweated onto the front of the dangly bit.
the next stage is to think about exactly how it will be translated into metal
Tonycardall wrote:Something that I had not spotted at the planning stage and, in fairness, unless you've done this before you are unlikely to notice, is that you cannot easily place a single, double ended nib, immediately above or below a conditional lock.
I am not sure I can see any problem
Tonycardall wrote:I have the most awful feeling that everything is going to have to be dismantled to access it!
assuming you did as suggested(!) and divided the pivot shaft into 5-lever lengths
Time for the Brown flux!
a liberal array of heat sinks
Tonycardall wrote:There is something in the instructions about using pins in the central holes in adjacent nibs to keep the bridles apart. I don't think that this would work on mine as there are no full sized nibs in close enough vicinity and, in any event, I didn't want to take it all apart again. However, I came up with a simple if unorthodox remedy.
Tonycardall wrote:Before anyone says anything about the guide wires, I haven't cut and tack soldered them yet as, with my usual lack of confidence, I want to use the frame for a while before committing it to any degree of permanence.
They can be fitted just the other side of the tappet in order to provide the necessary guidance
Do you know where I would find a wiring diagram that would facilitate the distant signal located on the same post as signal 31 automatically reverting to 'On' when my section signal is replaced to danger? I'm using servos. I've seen it demonstrated on YouTube but there is no mention of how it is wired.
a simple slot is not going to be difficult, worst case one relay.
Tonycardall wrote:They can be fitted just the other side of the tappet in order to provide the necessary guidance
On a slightly off topic but loosely connected set of questions. (I know that this is cheeky but you may be able to aim me in the right direction)
1. Should my levers for ground signals have a white band on the red background?
Very unlikely as that would imply they are locked by the Block/Token instrument.
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