Good luck with the decision

DougN wrote:Tim I think you have answered your own question in the last post. The universal which I think is the one you have in the photos has the clamp with both the cross slides/screws which is what you use to rivet the brass. There is graduations on the wheels so you can calculate the pitch on the rivets and space them correctly. I have one of these also when I am doing a lot of kit building I have found it invaluable. I have not had to do any scratch building recently but the design of the rivet press can produce straight lines there is a way to calculate the circular set out to do circles of evenly spaced rivets!
Good luck with the decision
petermeyer wrote:I have the cross slide; it's great for doing straight lines of evenly spaced rivets such as along the edge of a footplate.
It came with two 4mm points one of which is for half etched rivets. There are also 7mm and 2mm points.
Peter
petermeyer wrote:I have the cross slide; it's great for doing straight lines of evenly spaced rivets such as along the edge of a footplate.
It came with two 4mm points one of which is for half etched rivets. There are also 7mm and 2mm points.
Peter
andrewnummelin wrote:Here's an example, with different spacings and sizes that I could not have achieved by hand.
And not just straight lines:
(I'm happy with the rivets but not the rest of my modelling!)
For pushing out half etched rivets the cross slide is probably an inconvenience and a simpler piece of kit is preferable.
Embossing plastic does work, but the resulting distortion can lead to problems because the stresses induced may relax resulting in steady deterioration of the appearance.
The tool can also be used as a very sophisticated centre punch for marking out where to drill holes.
A limitation is the length of the slide: I've often thought of modifying it by making a slide a bit longer than the biggest model I intend to make. This is, naturally, in the roundtuit category!
davebradwell wrote:You're making a nice job of it and I noticed your attempts to introduce a bit of precision. Surely it deserves a cylinder front and rear - the rear is visible as a continuation of the smokebox and the front can be seen under the buffer beam. There's always a very prominent motion bracket to support the ends of the slidebars, too. The pick-ups for the front wheels can then be fixed under the cylinder and those for the other wheels under the ashpan to preserve the open feel of the frames.
Le Corbusier wrote:...I note that the CSB wire has to deflect slightly outwards from the frames to accommodate the Highlevel tag .. which suggests the handrail knobs could have done with being soldered in place projected slightly further out ... not sure how you would do this accurately and easily - hopefully the deviation will have negligible impact on the actual spring wire performance.
Will L wrote:....but in future you should be able to assemble the bits along a wire and place them on the chassis side so the wire is held the right distance form the chassis side as you solder in the fulcrum points.
davebradwell wrote:Did I see you were at Scaleforum Tim, if so it's easier for you to come over for a chat.
DaveB
Will L wrote:Tim
I will be interested to see how you get the motor into the body when fitting the chassis and how your torque reaction link in. If your in Scaleforum tomorrow you could bring the bits?
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