About to order some bits - could use a little advice

[MikeH]

Now I have a SGW layout planned, I'm at the stage where I need to think about ordering bits and bobs and I just have a few questions before I do If you don't mind?

I will be using the plastic sleeper and glue option for construction I think as I believe it might be abit easier, So I am wondering what type of glue is best? Would the revell plastic glue that I have be fine? I don't want to be destroying chair detail!

Logic would dictate that brass fishplates are used to help pass the current along, So I need brass and Plastic ones (for the turnouts) but what is the difference between the brass and plastic chairs? Are the brass ones just used when soldering it onto riveted ply sleepers or something?

For chairs are C&L or exactoscale one's better? Or not much in it? I will need the 2 bolt one as im going GWR location, Iv'e heard that the key is supposed to face the on-coming locomotive, however which way do they go around on a branch line terminus? lol

Last one is quite important I think, Gauges! Do I go for the fixed 18.83, or the one's with slight variations and make things slightly bigger at say +0.1 or + 0.2?

My shopping list currently contains..

Bullhead rail
1x C&L B7 turnout kit if its bullhead rail? (1 to learn from, 2nd to scratch build)
2 bolt chairs of some sort and slide chairs
plastic and brass fishplates
plastic sleepers
glue
cork base
track cutters
Gauges
Tiebars

I think that is everything, If I have missed something please let me know and I'll add it to the shopping list!

They may be silly questions but it saves ordering twice if I miss something, Hopefully will get started on the baseboard this week!

Thanks for your help

Michael

[garethashenden]

One novice helping another but I have built an EM layout and the techniques are the same.

You want butatone for attaching the chairs. Apply it with a small paintbrush that you will use for only that.
I like the Exactoscale chairs more, the tooling is newer and the detail sharper.
I believe that brass chairs can be used near board joints or on copperclad, but I've not used them.

As for gauges, I'm planning on getting some from Scalefour Stores rather than C&L. I don't really like the look of their gauges, I think a three point gauge would be a better idea.
#190 triangular gauge, #192 flangeway gauge, #193 checkrail gauge should get you started although you should get #290 back to back gauge as well. The triangular gauges are nice because they do the gauge widening automatically without you having to think about it too much.

[Alan Turner]

A few suggestions:

don't bother with turnout kits - too expensive just buy the components.

suggest plywood sleepers - no more/no less difficult than plastic and look better. You need 12" timbers and depending on your prototype you may also need 14".

Solvent that you know is good for ABS - EMA Plastic Weld works.

Think about foam rather than cork

most important gauge is the check gauge - learn how to use that one properly.

Get a copy of Templot and print out your own templates or down load some templates from the S4 site. At least join the Templot Forum.

regards

Alan

[Tim V]

Glue - you need a solvent in a bottle -such as Daywat poly. The plastic is a form of ABS, so your Revell glue would be no good.

Fishplates are not used to conduct electricity, unless you want big problems. All rails are bonded together using wire from underneath.

Not much between the chair makes, but I think from memory they were differently shaped - check this out, you might want to use one on the main, the other in sidings.

You only need the 18.83, the others are for sharper curves.

[MikeH]

Thanks all,

I will get the gauges from the s4 society then, and I will look into getting those ones

I'll just buy the components then for the turnouts and just build it on my templot plan. With regards to the wooden sleepers, I assume you just glue the chairs on like you would with the plastic ones? I will look into the foam

I didn't know about bonding the rails underneath with abit of wire so thanks for mentioning that, Saved me some issues later.

[Will L]

Think about foam rather than cork...

..then remember that while foam has worked for some people, others have come unstuck. The only way that cork ever lets anybody down is that the layout may be a bit noisy.

[FCA]

Glue/solvent - make sure you apply some weight to the chair/sleeper joint when bonding the two.

[RedDragon]

If you are not buying point kits it would probably be worth considering buying the common crossings from C&L, unless you are confident in filing rail accurately along with your soldering skills.

[Alan Turner]

If you are not buying point kits it would probably be worth considering buying the common crossings from C&L, unless you are confident in filing rail accurately along with your soldering skills.

The sooner you learn how to file up a crossing nose the better so you might as well start doing it now.

regards

Alan

[MikeH]

If you are not buying point kits it would probably be worth considering buying the common crossings from C&L, unless you are confident in filing rail accurately along with your soldering skills.

The sooner you learn how to file up a crossing nose the better so you might as well start doing it now.

regards

Alan

I will buy a couple, but also have a go at filing some to compare against, Afterall if this sgw layout works then I will need more for later anyway

Thanks all, I shall place some orders tomorrow.

[RobM]

Although suggested before in another post come along to the Nottingham Area Group, only 20 miles from you just off Junction 25 M1. You will get loads of practical advice and help. I learnt so much from our track building experts Tony Wilkins and Howard Bolton.
Rob (Taking off my Ken Kirk's hat)

[Terry Bendall]

don't bother with turnout kits - too expensive just buy the components.

Yes they are, but they work first time every time. However building your own is a valuable skill to learn.

..then remember that while foam has worked for some people, others have come unstuck. The only way that cork ever lets anybody down is that the layout may be a bit noisy.

Yes it is and for my money cork is one of the tied and tested methods that always works.

Although suggested before in another post come along to the Nottingham Area Group

For those who are near to one, joining an area group is an ideal way of learning the skills.

Terry Bendall

[Guy Rixon]

A few suggestions:

don't bother with turnout kits - too expensive just buy the components.

Alan

Possibly buy just one as a beginner's exercise? Do they still include the gauges?

[MikeH]

Although suggested before in another post come along to the Nottingham Area Group, only 20 miles from you just off Junction 25 M1. You will get loads of practical advice and help. I learnt so much from our track building experts Tony Wilkins and Howard Bolton.
Rob (Taking off my Ken Kirk's hat)

Thanks Rob, I will do that and hopefully pop along to your next meeting if that's ok?

Possibly buy just one as a beginner's exercise? Do they still include the gauges?

They do yes, Although they knock the price down I think if you don't need them, Which I might get from the s4 store anyway

[Winander]

One novice helping another but I have built an EM layout and the techniques are the same.

like the Exactoscale chairs more, the tooling is newer and the detail sharper.

Another novice helping...

I would second the fact that Exactoscale chairs are preferable. Some of the C&L ones I got had flashing bridging the gap where the rail web fits.

I only bought one triangular track gauge at first and quickly found having two made things easier.

I tried to buy a back to back gauge at Scalefour North, and they had no stock. Don't know if that was just at the show or generally, so may be wise to check first if you decide to get one, although not needed for track building.

Have you decided on steel or nickel silver rail?

Bon chance!

[MikeH]

One novice helping another but I have built an EM layout and the techniques are the same.

like the Exactoscale chairs more, the tooling is newer and the detail sharper.

Another novice helping...

I would second the fact that Exactoscale chairs are preferable. Some of the C&L ones I got had flashing bridging the gap where the rail web fits.

I only bought one triangular track gauge at first and quickly found having two made things easier.

I tried to buy a back to back gauge at Scalefour North, and they had no stock. Don't know if that was just at the show or generally, so may be wise to check first if you decide to get one, although not needed for track building.

Have you decided on steel or nickel silver rail?

Bon chance!

Thanks, I will try and buy a couple of those triangle ones then and the Exactoscale chairs. I am thinking Nickel silver, although this one will be in the main part of the house so steel wouldn't be an issue, any leftovers will (hopefully) go into my loft layout where I hear that Nickel silver is best.

[RobM]

Thanks Rob, I will do that and hopefully pop along to your next meeting if that's ok?

Next meeting is 14th May, you'll be made most welcome although Ken and myself will not be there.
Rob

[ken kirk]

Hi Mike,
Regarding your bits (!)

Your next opportunity to see the goodies available to members is on Sat 20th June when NAG hosts the AGM in Derby,The Stores will be delighted to help you part with your dosh.

Details will be published in the Scalefour News shortly.
Eileen's will also be there for your tools and bits.
Regards,
Ken

[MikeH]

Hi Mike,
Regarding your bits (!)

Your next opportunity to see the goodies available to members is on Sat 20th June when NAG hosts the AGM in Derby,The Stores will be delighted to help you part with your dosh.

Details will be published in the Scalefour News shortly.
Eileen's will also be there for your tools and bits.
Regards,
Ken

Nice, I will get saving then