First dabble in P4

[21C141]

Here's an update on the build. Detail sole bar foils fitted along with brake rodding, hangers and brakes. The B2B (and track) gauge arrived (17.7mm) and the wheels set. Still have to fit the white metal spring/axle boxes but will leave this until I'm sure it runs ok on some track. Once fitted I don't think the wheels can be easily removed.

image.jpg

No prizes for spotting the obvious mistake.

Still haven't got the hang of invisible soldering but considering this is only my second build (first was a High Level 14xx chassis) I'm fairly pleased at how it's coming on. Also need to look at producing better rivets.
Will start work on the body over the weekend, unless the bits from C&L arrive, then it's down to track making.
Ray

[Lindsay G]

Excess solder may not show up when painted. However, you can easily get rid of the excess solder before painting. Just give it a good rub with a fibreglass brush - if it is too deep for that, fibreglass the surrounding area, cover with flux, then spread the solder around with your soldering iron (having given the tip a good clean beforehand). Get going with the fibreglass brush again and it will all disappear - if not repeat the process.

Lindsay

[doktorstamp]

Dear Ray,

For your second try at soldering, I think you have done commendably well.

With the axle boxes many, I won't say all, machine or file away the base from underneath, thus facilitating removal of wheel-sets (effectively extending the bearing hole downwards)

Seasonal Tidings and wishing you well with your next venture.

kind regards

Nigel

[21C141]

Thanks for the comments Lindsay, Nigel.

Heres another update on the LSWR van build.
Attention turned to the body.

image.jpg

This went together quite well, the instructions suggested using superglue for some of the white metal parts but I didn't think that this would stand heat too well with the rest of the soldering, so I used 100deg solder where appropriate.

The biggest problem I had was with the lamp irons, any suggestions as to how to fit these would be appreciated. I managed it in the end but it was very hit and miss and to be honest 'could do better'.

Also made up a bit of track using C&L plastic chairs and timber tracks sleepers. Another first, but was simple enough. Once I've finalised the track plan for my layout I'll have a go at some point work.

Comments welcome.
Ray.

[Will L]

The biggest problem I had was with the lamp irons, any suggestions as to how to fit these would be appreciated. I managed it in the end but it was very hit and miss and to be honest 'could do better'.

Looks a good good job Ray, but I see what you mean about the lamp irons.

I don't think your getting them hot enough for the solder your using. Use 145 solder and the biggest bit you can mange with so the area being soldering iron heats up fast. Doing it before attaching the white metal would be good, not necessarily because you'll melt it, more because it make a good heat sink which can make it hard to get enough heat into the job. Also, when attaching items from the awkward squad, I'd err on getting too much solder on and cleaning up afterwards than trying to avoid making a mess in the first place.

Will

[andrewnummelin]

Personally I'd use a resistance soldering unit for this sort of item. The biggest problem with tiny objects, like lamp irons, is often the lack of positive location to hold them in place while soldering. Next time, have a think about drilling and pinning - epoxy, or even super glue, will then work fine and you can avoid the need to solder.

Keep up the good work!

[allanferguson]

The biggest problem I had was with the lamp irons, any suggestions as to how to fit these would be appreciated. I managed it in the end but it was very hit and miss and to be honest 'could do better'.

For these wee buggers I have taken to using solder cream and a hot iron -- usually gets a good joint with minimum surplus solder to clean off, and it's quick enough not to disturb stuff round about. (The green is a reflection)

Allan F

DSCF0197.JPG

[DavidM]

I agree with Andrew - I usually use resistance soldering for these sort of details as well. I usually tin with 145 solder first, seems to hold better on small details because it forms a better fillet, possibly. But you do need to be careful how much power you use - practice with a similar piece of scrap first to get the right setting. The advantage of resistance soldering is that you can continue to hold the piece in place with the tip of the "iron" as heat dissipates and the solid joint forms.

David Murrell

[Paul Willis]

I agree with Andrew - I usually use resistance soldering for these sort of details as well. I usually tin with 145 solder first, seems to hold better on small details because it forms a better fillet, possibly. But you do need to be careful how much power you use - practice with a similar piece of scrap first to get the right setting. The advantage of resistance soldering is that you can continue to hold the piece in place with the tip of the "iron" as heat dissipates and the solid joint forms.

Just one observation...

Using a Resistance Soldering Unit is undoubtedly a very easy way of fixing this sort of part. I have one, and it's the tool that I always reach for with items like this.

However we should remember that buying one new is going to cost not much short of two hundred quid these days! They are a great investment, but particularly in the first steps of finescale modelling, folk may not be willing or able to make such a commitment.

So there is still very much a place for a good description of how to use a hot, clean iron and the right solder, with a bit of cleaning up afterwards...

As someone once said, "Let's keep it real, people"

Cheers
Flymo

[Tim V]

To back up Paul's comment I don't have a resistance soldering tool. I do use different temperature solders in such circumstances.

[Philip Hall]

I use a resistance unit for things like this, but for lamp irons I always use ordinary resin cored solder - I think it melts at about 190 degrees - and find that it's a lot stronger for delicate small details which can easily get snagged and broken off.

Philip

[21C141]

Many thanks for all your contributions to my lamp iron soldering problem.

I did see a resistance soldering iron demo at Worley earlier this year and was well impressed. Hopefully one should be dropping down the chimney in the next few days.

Merry Christmas to you all.

Ray.

[DavidM]

I did see a resistance soldering iron demo at Worley earlier this year and was well impressed. Hopefully one should be dropping down the chimney in the next few days.

Just watch out - the transformer is very heavy!

David

[Knuckles]

You have inspired me to have a go at a brass wagon sometime. I have never tried a brass wagon but what you have done so far looks crisp. How's you P4 venture been reciently? Has been a while since you posted here so just wandering.

[21C141]

You have inspired me to have a go at a brass wagon sometime. I have never tried a brass wagon but what you have done so far looks crisp. How's you P4 venture been reciently? Has been a while since you posted here so just wandering.

Hi Knuckles.
Sorry for the lack of recent posts, been distracted with my 00 (wash my mouth out) layout recently. The resistance soldering iron arrived but not had a chance to get to grips with it yet. Will be back on the case and hope to get the wagon finished over the next few weeks. Will post some more pictures shortly.
Ray.

[DougN]

Ray, good luck with the Resistance soldering unit. I have one but have not used it for a number of years due to purchasing a temperature controled iron (150 to 350d.) I havn't used it since a member of the local group mentioned that he uses a steel brush in a dremel to clean off excess solder, then purchased a bag for me of about 10... only 20bucks! They worked beautifully.

Resistance does have its uses. I did have a 1mm x 1mm to the bottom of a die block to a B1's valve gear came off and with the RS unit I managed to zap it on with out the other bits comming loose or being gumed up with excess solder.

[Andy W]

If you're building anything with overlays and small details an RSU can save hours of frustration and cleaning up.

[21C141]

Been looking at what couplings to put on the wagon and decided to give the AJ couplings a try. Never used these before so will buy the book from the stores. While I'm at it I may as well get the jigs but there seems to be a vast array of them including:

Coupling hook bending jig
180deg bending jig
Pivot bending jig
Pivot plates ( with and without block)
Buffer height gauge
Mounting jig.

Without the book I don't know if all this is necessary so any help would be much appreciated.

The wagon has a bend down prong near each end with a small hole in the end which the manual says is specifically for AJ couplings. But no information as to how to fit them.

Ray.

[Tim V]

The only one essential is the bending jig.

The rest are "luxuries" but perhaps you'd better look in the book. The original articles showed ways of making the other jigs - so you didn't have to "buy" jigs.

[John McAleely]

The only one essential is the bending jig.

Um, three have the phrase 'bending jig' in their name. Which do you mean?

[21C141]

The only one essential is the bending jig.

Um, three have the phrase 'bending jig' in their name. Which do you mean?

Just what I was thinking, I'd like to get the book and jigs at the same time to save postage.

[21C141]

The bending jig(s) arrived from the stores and I've made them up and bent my first Alex Jackson coupling.
It sort of looks like a AJ coupling but not sure if one of the angles is right.
I did try photographing it but its so small it's beyond my iPhone camera capability.
Will take it along to Scalefour North and see what the experts think.

[Terry Bendall]

Will take it along to Scalefour North and see what the experts think.

And I am sure you will get some help if you do. If Committee member Tony Williams is there, and he usuualy is, I am sure he will be pleased to help since he contributed to the book and Alex Jackson Couplings that the Society published a few yearsd ago.

Terry Bendall

[Tim V]

One of the most useful things I've seen with AJ couplings is to make a couple of them massively oversized out of wire coat hangers. By copying the diagrams, you can get the angles right. Also when you bend up proper sized ones, you've got a 3D model to copy.

[21C141]

One of the most useful things I've seen with AJ couplings is to make a couple of them massively oversized out of wire coat hangers. By copying the diagrams, you can get the angles right. Also when you bend up proper sized ones, you've got a 3D model to copy.

Thanks Tim, that sounds like a good idea, will have to raid the wardrobe.

Here's an update on the LSWR wagon. Construction nearly finished, just needs screw links making up and the roof,body and chassis gluing together.

image.jpg

Of course it all needs painting before then, and the AJ couplings.

Ray.