Backscene catastrophe!

[Ben Mason]

I am starting work on a new layout, so I'm trying to iron out a few problems before I begin. One of the worst mistakes I made last time I tried was that the backscene didn't glue to the board successfully, and became badly wrinkled which ruined the overall effect. Can anyone suggest a method or brand of glue that would ensure a smooth result ?
I have already decided to apply the paper before mounting the board (in case it goes wrong) and should be helped by the scenery which will be in a cutting so I won't be painting onto the sky paper, which I've decided to buy on a roll to avoid unsightly joins. Any suggestions will be read gratefully!

[Guy Rixon]

I believe that graphics professionals would use a spray adhesive for this kind of job: something like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-400ml-Spray-Mount-Adhesive/dp/B000J6D4SA.

I have an old can of a similar product. The instructions say, for permanent bonding of absorbent materials, to spray one surface throughly and then join the two surfaces while the glue is wet. Alternatively, for a bond that can separated later, spray and let the glue go tacky before joining. It sets in a few minutes.

Possibly the wrinkling of your previous back-scene was because the paper got wet and cockled before the glue set? The spray-mount adhesive should get you round that.

Two points to beware of. First, it's not cheap and the shelf-life is limited (my old can is still half full but the gas has escaped so it can't be sprayed). Second, the spray is really bad for your lungs so you need a vapour mask.

[JFS]

Just a long shot here - what about wall paper paste? It is infinitely repositionable, it is cheap as chips and if you are careful, all the bubbles disappear on drying.

Obviously I am assuming you have not painted your backscene with water colours!

Oh, but it does cause the paper to grow a fair bit so don't use it for track templates (how do I know this?)

Cheers,

Howard.

[martin goodall]

It's purely a matter of personal choice, but I prefer a firm surface to paint on, rather than paper or other flexible surfaces.

I use 3mm hardboard (painting on the smooth side). It can be fixed to the baseboard frame with screws (which makes it readily removable whether for transport or for any additional painting or amendment).

Most members will be aware that I wrote up my methods for backscene painting in MRJ 220 and 221.

I appreciate that there are other methods and other materials, but I am very happy with 3mm harboard, curved to shape as required, and painted with artists' acrylics. Admittedly, you then have the problem of disguising joints, but I used 8-foot long sheets of hardboard for the Burford backscene, which left only two joins to deal with, one of which is partly disguised by a mill chimney.

[newport_rod]

Ben
You may like to consider laminating your paper backscene in matt plastic, as Bernie Baker did on Allt-y-Graban Road and our club has on our 7mm layout Frecclesham (no doubt googling either will bring up images). Commercial laminators can laminate substantial lengths and the result should be strong enough and impervious.
Rod

[Armchair Modeller]

One of the best very large backscenes is on County Gate, an OO9 layout. The relevent page describing the technique says

"The printing was done on self adhesive vinyl then laminated with a matt surface vinyl film. This last process is essential as it gives the sky some depth and luminosity and the delicate inks are protected."

.........but that's all

The page is here - http://www.009.cd2.com/members/how_to/f ... s_page.htm

[Russ Elliott]

A good example of a printed vinyl laminate backscene is Leysdown. It's stored as a roll, and is strong enough to hang well on the rear framework of their proscenium arch. The laminating process is not cheap though.

[martin goodall]

One of the best very large backscenes is on County Gate, an OO9 layout.

I absolutely agree. Although I chose to paint my own backscene, I very much admire some of the photographic backscenes produced in recent years. The backscene on "County Gate" perfectly matches the exquisitely modelled trees on that layout - a real feast for the eye.

Another fine example which greatly enhances the atmosphere of the layout can be seen on Chris Nevard's "Catcott Birtle" - such a simple layout and yet hugely appealing; a beautiful piece of model-making.

In these cases, a satisfactory material on which to print the image and a suitable adhesive are clearly essential.

[Mark Tatlow]

The page is here - http://www.009.cd2.com/members/how_to/f ... s_page.htm

Actually, there is a much better page here on his website - http://www.009.cd2.com/members/how_to/backdrops.htm

[Bawdsey]

On the subject of printed backscenes I did one in 2011 with assistance from Chris Nevard who kindly allowed me to blag one of his images.

It was featured in March Railway Modeller this year, and there a small bit about in on my blog here
http://albionyard.wordpress.com/2013/02 ... arch-2013/
http://albionyard.files.wordpress.com/2 ... 58-001.jpg

Key to using this method is a good high quality large file sized image, too small and as you enlarge them they get very chunky and pixelated.
Well worth investigating if you don't like painting and/or backscene joins. Martins MRJ article is well worth reading too to help visualise how a backscene will look and things to avoid, as the key elements are the same regardless of the methodology used to get a picture behind the train set.
brgds
Paul M-P