Scalefour Forum

junctionmad wrote: Im concerned that damage might ensue from members forgetting to release the catch etc

In the Society stand we have an example of the original design of lever frame and lots of people play with in including numerous children. We have never yet has a breakage and I am sure that the design that Howard has produced will be equally robust. The one I am building will be for the stand when it is finished and will have all the interlocking needed so it will get a good test.

The Stores will continue to stock both versions.

Terry Bendall

Having built the original lever frame and just recently built the new frame I can tell you that the new frame is far more robust than the original.

regards

Alan

I’m convinced , building 8 kits is soon to be an undertaking I’m involved in

Just to confirm Terry's comments on the robustness of the catches the NAG group have one on our Scalefour stand which goes to local exhibitions and is as good as when it was built despite many children, and heavy handed grown-ups, thrashing the levers back and forth!
Bevis

Just a note to add to the use of piano wire in the locking mechanism.

Although Carr's Brown Flux has been recommended for soldering steel, I have found that piano wire solders very easily when using a German flux called 'Loet Honig' - available from Expo Tools stockists. The piano wire that I have from Eileen's (and I expect from all other suppliers) has an oily protective coating. Once to coating is removed and the area to be soldered is dressed with a fine file to bright metal finish, soldering is 100% successful with good flow properties.

This is a question directed at Howard: knowing your preference for 179 degree silver bearing solder, can you advise us of a UK stockist for this grade of solder?

Does this type of solder also work with piano wire/steel (i.e. for the drive pins)?

Colin

Colin Parks wrote:This is a question directed at Howard: knowing your preference for 179 degree silver bearing solder, can you advise us of a UK stockist for this grade of solder?

Its in the Carr's range, though seems very expensive compared to what I paid not that long ago.

Hobby Holidays list 179 degrees, and at one point describe it as tin/lead with 2% silver (the usual combination). Prices seem to be better: http://www.hobbyholidays.co.uk/products.php?cat=40

Probably others.

- Nigel

Colin Parks wrote:This is a question directed at Howard: knowing your preference for 179 degree silver bearing solder, can you advise us of a UK stockist for this grade of solder?

Does this type of solder also work with piano wire/steel (i.e. for the drive pins)?

Colin

As Nigel says, there are other "hobby" suppliers but "industrial" sources can be cheaper. For example, if you look at the RS site there are quite a few variations of diameter, package size etc to choose from - for example:- https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/4364869/

have a bit of a search round to see all the options. Unfortuntanely, because it contains silver it is not cheap - but it is a lot nicer to use than 188 and stronger than 145.

It is fine for the piano wire joints - given the right flux!! EDIT:- Should have said - 179 is the strongest of all the tin/lead solders - and there are many!

Very Best Wishes,

Many thanks Howard and Nigel for the links.

Having read the specifications of the solder wire on each website, I am slightly confused in that both solders only contain 2% silver, whereas silver bearing solders that I have found are around 4%. (Most of those being sourced from America.)

If the 179c is the best, regardless of the lower silver content, then the Hobby Holidays product looks to be a better proposition finacially, rather than paying over £50 for a 500g reel. To put this into context, I have happily been using a 1/2 lb reel of unmarked lead solder for the past ten years without making much of an impression on it!

Colin

Colin Parks wrote: I have happily been using a 1/2 lb reel of unmarked lead solder for the past ten years without making much of an impression on it!

... that will soon change when you start soldering levers together. That said, I have only just started my second 500g reel after about 110 levers (and a few building / locos / etc...

Very Best Wishes,

Yes, a little solder goes a long way. I use 500g reels of 0.7mm multicore solder for track making and a reel lasts me several years, indeed, I am currently still using a reel I purchased from RS a couple of decades ago (in the Electromail days) and I thought I used more than most. I also have two 2.5 Kg reels of thicker solder for heavier jobs that will almost certainly outlast me.
Regards
Tony.

Well , how much solder does go into the construction of a lever and locking frame? It sounds like quite a lot! I shall have to order the 500g reel and pass any remainder on to future generations!

Just received my 11 kits . Suggestion : It should be mentioned in the shop that you need a number of items in order to complete the kit like various tubes and wire, Now I have to order those, I dont like " serial discovery !"

junctionmad wrote:Just received my 11 kits . Suggestion : It should be mentioned in the shop that you need a number of items in order to complete the kit like various tubes and wire, Now I have to order those, I dont like " serial discovery !"

Did you not download and read the "instructions first?

Eileen's Emporium stock all the relevant metal sections for both the lever frame and the interlocking mechanism.

JFS wrote:

junctionmad wrote:Just received my 11 kits . Suggestion : It should be mentioned in the shop that you need a number of items in order to complete the kit like various tubes and wire, Now I have to order those, I dont like " serial discovery !"

Did you not download and read the "instructions first?

not the old RTFM advice ,

junctionmad

not the old RTFM advice ,

RTFM being old does not make it useless advice