GWR Fruit D

[Jeremy Good]

As part of my quest to get a large number of nearly completed projects over the finishing line my Fruit D has come to the front of the queue.

The model is built from a Parkside kit utilising a Morgan Design chassis (Fruit D to Y 11) with solebars of a suitable (though not 100% correct) type from the Morgan Design range. The project has stalled as I have been unable to work out where to source the individual steps that hang down from the solebars to axlebox level alongside each of the three doors.

From what I can work out there are some items in the Frogmore range that might be suitable but rather than taking a risk I wondered if anyone knew of a suitable and available etch or other source of these steps? Etched brass/nickel silver would be best to allow easy attachment to the underframe?

Any suggestions gratefully received! Thanks for your help.

Jeremy

[Joe Newman]

Jeremy,

I have used the Frogmore steps (3915 GWR long steps) on my Y11. As you say, being able to solder them makes them much stronger than the Parkside plastic ones.

To find where they were located I suggest you look at Paul Bartlett's photos at the following.

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/fruitd

I hope this helps.

Joe

[Jeremy Good]

Thanks Joe.

I thought they looked like the correct part but its difficult to tell from the photos on the website - one of the problems of not being able to look at things at a show!

I'll get an order in to them shortly.

Jeremy

[Steve Carter]

As part of my quest to get a large number of nearly completed projects over the finishing line my Fruit D has come to the front of the queue.

The model is built from a Parkside kit utilising a Morgan Design chassis (Fruit D to Y 11) with solebars of a suitable (though not 100% correct) type from the Morgan Design range. The project has stalled as I have been unable to work out where to source the individual steps that hang down from the solebars to axlebox level alongside each of the three doors.

From what I can work out there are some items in the Frogmore range that might be suitable but rather than taking a risk I wondered if anyone knew of a suitable and available etch or other source of these steps? Etched brass/nickel silver would be best to allow easy attachment to the underframe?

Any suggestions gratefully received! Thanks for your help.

Jeremy

Hi Jeremy

I have a Parkside Fruit D to do and have got the Morgan chassis. Why did you go with the suitable Morgan solebars (which ones for a Fruit D?) rather than the Parkside kit ones please?

Thanks

Steve

[Jeremy Good]

Hi Steve

Largely because I hate thinning down plastic solebars from kits and with the Morgan chassis (or most W-irons) they end up too wide apart on the model. I also usually end up breaking them or breaking off any detail when I do try to thin them down!

Using the brass ones usually gives a better appearance, in my view, and I can solder delicate parts like steps to them which I think are more robust.

I think I used one of the Morgan Mink D solebars as there isn’t a specific one in the range but can’t remember which was the closest match. I’ll have a look when I venture into the workshop to see if I can work out which one it was.

Take care

Jeremy

[Jeremy Good]

Steve

That was easier to find than I feared!

It seems I’ve used solebars ref 4697 which are Mink D ones. These were the closest of the options in the range. I seem to recall that I thought about filing off some of the half etched rivets to correspond better with the underframe but not sure whether I did or not.

Jeremy

[Steve Carter]

Steve

That was easier to find than I feared!

It seems I’ve used solebars ref 4697 which are Mink D ones. These were the closest of the options in the range. I seem to recall that I thought about filing off some of the half etched rivets to correspond better with the underframe but not sure whether I did or not.

Jeremy

Thanks Jeremy.

I assume as I'm modelling a Fruit D in the 1950s that the Mink D solebars are a better option than the plastic Parkside ones in the kit?

Steve

[Jeremy Good]

That’s the route I’ve taken. Mine is for Bodmin set in 1955.

I need to sort out the steps as well and I’ll let you know once I’ve received the bits from my Dart Castings order.

Jeremy

[Steve Carter]

That’s the route I’ve taken. Mine is for Bodmin set in 1955.

I need to sort out the steps as well and I’ll let you know once I’ve received the bits from my Dart Castings order.

Jeremy

Thanks

I got some etched door latches that are suitable from Hubert Car but I went to check on his MRD website to check and it says they are stocktaking and to come back after 16/11/2020!!!!

Glad to see Hubert is still on the ball

[PeteT]

I can't add any value, but to ask for a few photos when completed - & thanks for the suggestions of which MRD bits to use.

I have a Dapol body to do one day, so thats in need of a complete underframe & my knowledge (& library) of GW rolling stock is minimal.

[Noel]

I have a Dapol body to do one day, so thats in need of a complete underframe & my knowledge (& library) of GW rolling stock is minimal.

There were only three batches, so there was not much variation. The main one is that the 1939 GW version was gas lit, the BR 1958-59 version electric lit. There is a drawing in Atkins et al, GW Wagons [diagram Y11] - although apparently always treated as NPCCS, they were officially goods stock. I would check the body against the drawing, as it always looks slightly odd to me, although I can't tell you why, not having one to hand to compare. If you do a BR one, the numbering is a bit peculiar.

[PeteT]

Thanks Noel - I'll try and remember to bring it next time we're allowed in viewing distance of Gordon's library!

[Andrew Ullyott]

I’ve built a few now for Cheddar. The info on single steps is helpful thanks. I’ve stuck with the Parkside sole bars but used Bill Bedford sprung W irons.

[Noel]

Andrew, so far as I know, there were no three door GW or BR Fruit Ds with high vacuum pipes [there was an earlier use of the code, for a two door Fruit C also equipped with air brake, which ceased in the mid-1930s], and the vacuum pipe was always on the left of the hook as you looked at the end, with the train heating pipe on the right. Also so far as I know, this was standard post-grouping practice, with the exception of some early LNER stock with high pipes which sloped so that the hose was above the hook at both ends, but with the slope from the left at one end and the right at the other. Otherwise the brake pipe, and the steam heat pipe if present, always changed side under the chassis.

I see that the brown one [I can't read the other two] has a W92xxx number, which makes it a BR built vehicle, which had electric lighting.