Accurascale Class 37

[John Donnelly]

Got my 37001 today, looks great, runs great and sounds great (albeit a bit quieter than I expected although I know that can be changed) but...

One of the buffers has been fitted at a rather jaunty angle - easy enough to fix.
I lost the sound completely at one point and it only came back after a reboot of the DCC system - have to keep an eye on that.
Missing a windscreen wiper at one end.

Biggest issue so far was the conversion to P4. There is a post on the Accurascale Facebook page that says you 'simply pop the keeper plate off' to replace the wheels. There are 6 clips holding it in place and what I didn't realise was that there are also four prongs on each plate that fit in to the rear of the bogie side frames. Whilst this didn't cause a huge problem getting the keeper plate off, it would only go back on with the bogie sides removed leaving them hanging precariously from the chains. I've not managed to get them back on fully yet but at least I have the loco running on South Pelaw.

Other bogie related issue was there was enough grease in each bogie to lube up a full size 37.

Overall though, a great addition to the fleet, short video after the wheel swap but nothing else done so far...

[Triode]

Good to see a blue 37 running on South Pelaw - the first of several I suspect! I'm also waiting for 37001 from Accurascale but no word yet.

I've P4'd a couple from the Scottish car headlamp fitted batch and had a similar experience to you. I ended up glueing the brake gear to the bogie sides, effectively making them one combined assembly per side of each bogie. This reduces the number of separate parts to keep track of and makes adding or remvoing them much easier.

[John Donnelly]

Good to see a blue 37 running on South Pelaw - the first of several I suspect! I'm also waiting for 37001 from Accurascale but no word yet.

Indeed I should have had 2 but my retailer made an error on the order but I managed to pick up a second, albeit not sound fitted from another retailer last night...

[Steve Carter]

Hi John

Accurascale are at Warley so maybe a chance to give them some feedback?

Se you there.

Steve

[John Donnelly]

Hi John

Accurascale are at Warley so maybe a chance to give them some feedback?

Se you there.

Steve

I may well do that.

See you next weekend.

John

[Tony Wilkins]

Hi John.
I recently received the D6702 version in green. Without the "benefit" of social media, I had to work out how to get into the bogies for myself. The arrangement does seem to be overly complicated. I have had some P4 conversion sets for quite a while. I did eventually manage to do so by pulling the front brake rod out of the the shoes and springing the clips out although I did break one in the process. I also ended up removing the chains from the underside of the loco body to spring the sideframes out to get them off the horizontal pegs. The wheelsets were swapped and things reassembled. The loco performed well on plain track, but does not like my pointwork and before anybody asks, they were re-gauged for S4. I have my suspicion that the center axle is fractionally lower than the outer ones and with all three axles driven on each bogie, this can also be problematic. Oh well, back to plan B.
Regards
Tony.

[John Donnelly]

I have my suspicion that the center axle is fractionally lower than the outer ones

Funny you should say that as, at one end of mine, I've noticed that the wheels do have a tendency to lift off the track but only at the one end. I've not had a chance to investigate further yet though.

Whilst not a P4 conversion, this video would have been extremely useful if I'd come across it before embarking on the conversion, still, the second one should be a lot easier...



I mentioned earlier about the loss of sound - this was worse on Saturday when I ran the loco and further investigation suggests that it may be due to the DCC system that I currently use (Gaugemaster Prodigy Express). Apparently the ESU chip requires at least 14v to function correctly and, as my system outputs 13.8v, it makes the sound a bit hit and miss.

John

[Triode]

I use an NCE Powercab which also has a rating of 13.8V DC from the power adapter. I've not had an issue with Loksound chips up to now.

[John Donnelly]

I use an NCE Powercab which also has a rating of 13.8V DC from the power adapter. I've not had an issue with Loksound chips up to now.

Thanks for that, I'm going to try a Powercab to see if it makes a difference but there is definitely an issue with the Prodigy, others have reported it.

[davebradwell]

Are you sure it's 13.8 volts - how are you measuring it? With apologies if you know about RMS values and all that.

DaveB

[Porcy Mane]

Are you sure it's 13.8 volts - how are you measuring it? With apologies if you know about RMS values and all that.

DaveB

I used my Fluke 289 to measure the V on Johns layout. I have a record of it somewhere but can't remember the exact value. What I do remember is the RMS voltage was comparatively high. Reason for measuring the voltage was I have a sound fitted class 08 that produces a loud buzzing from the speaker if the track voltage is above. 12.8 (RMS). The buzzing gets louder when adjusting track voltage upwards and vice versa.
The source of the speaker interference has been isolated to the voltage stabilizer circuitry for the stay alive but I haven’t investigated further.

When Bachmann redesigned their 37’s (& 47’s) to all wheel drive they had a tendency to derail. Even on 00 track.

John, if no one has found a solution whilst we're busy over the next few weeks or so there’s always the option of turning a few thou off the tyres on the centre wheelsets to see if that improves matters.

P

[John Donnelly]

Cheers Porce, you might get to see it running on Thursday...

[Terry Bendall]

I have my suspicion that the center axle is fractionally lower than the outer ones and with all three axles driven on each bogie,

This is also a problem with the Bachmann 37s.

Oh well, back to plan B.

I am sure Tony will have a solution. Some people use different makes of wheels on the centre axle that are slightly smaller in diameter.. I usually pare away the botton of the middle slots which allows the bearings to move up a bit more.

Terry Bendall

[Jollysmart]

I use an NCE Powercab which also has a rating of 13.8V DC from the power adapter. I've not had an issue with Loksound chips up to now.

Thanks for that, I'm going to try a Powercab to see if it makes a difference but there is definitely an issue with the Prodigy, others have reported it.

Accurascale say that there is a requirement for a minimum of 14v but they recommend 16V as the issue is related to charging the stay alive, one solution being to wait for 30+ seconds before starting the sound once the loco is on the track and being powered up and to lower the sound level.

There is much discussion on RMweb about this subject with the revised values etc on the trade/accurascale/class 37 section.

[Hardwicke]

I have my suspicion that the center axle is fractionally lower than the outer ones and with all three axles driven on each bogie,

This is also a problem with the Bachmann 37s.

Oh well, back to plan B.

I am sure Tony will have a solution.

Terry Bendall

Penbits?

[Tony Wilkins]

Penbits would certainly be the most drastic solution.
I have some Bachmann 37s with the drive on the outer and center axles of each bogie, with the innermost axle lightly sprung. I have not found this arrangement very satisfactory either as the down force on the outer axles is mainly dependent on the strength of the springs pushing down on the inner axles. I have played around with different strength springs with limited success. I finally resorted to chassis transplants, substituting Vitrains chassis for the Bachmann ones to obtain the standard of reliability I desire. These only drive the outer axles of each bogie effectively being an A1A A1A. Heljan use the same arrangement on their class 47s and these are very reliable and easy to convert.
I discovered the problem of 3 axle drive when Hornby first introduced their tender drives. The problem is that as the drive train is through the spur gears using the center axle as one of them, if there is vertical play on the center axle, in one direction the gears tend to push the center axle downward and in the reverse direction, lift the center axle, with undesirable consequences. In a bogie locomotive there will always be one being pushed down and one being lifted, so I have generally tended to avoid 6 axle drive locos.
Regards
Tony.

[zebedeesknees]

My Bachmann 37 suffered the same issues so I purchased the Penbits kit. On seeing that it suited both the original two-axles-per-bogie drive, and the all axle drive later ones, I shelved it as my purist cells considered it a waste of time. But - since the Bachmann spares site arrived, I thought to obtain a pair of all-wheel drive bogies (for a tenner each!) after asking Bachmann if they would fit, and am now at the rolling chassis stage with the Penbits conversion.

The brakes are next, then batteries in the fuel tanks since with sprung bogies the weights are redundant. Then pickup conditioning circuits and an MR601a in the roof space. Though the 601 does not have a sound unit trigger like the MR 603, I find that setting the pwm to the minimum, 120Hz, does it well enough for me.

Ted.

[Daddyman]

My Bachmann 37 suffered the same issues so I purchased the Penbits kit. On seeing that it suited both the original two-axles-per-bogie drive, and the all axle drive later ones, I shelved it as my purist cells considered it a waste of time. But - since the Bachmann spares site arrived, I thought to obtain a pair of all-wheel drive bogies (for a tenner each!) after asking Bachmann if they would fit, and am now at the rolling chassis stage with the Penbits conversion.

The brakes are next, then batteries in the fuel tanks since with sprung bogies the weights are redundant. Then pickup conditioning circuits and an MR601a in the roof space. Though the 601 does not have a sound unit trigger like the MR 603, I find that setting the pwm to the minimum, 120Hz, does it well enough for me.

Ted.

Are you saying that the Penbits bogies fit the all-new 2022 model?

[Tony Wilkins]

My Bachmann 37 suffered the same issues so I purchased the Penbits kit. On seeing that it suited both the original two-axles-per-bogie drive, and the all axle drive later ones, I shelved it as my purist cells considered it a waste of time. But - since the Bachmann spares site arrived, I thought to obtain a pair of all-wheel drive bogies (for a tenner each!) after asking Bachmann if they would fit, and am now at the rolling chassis stage with the Penbits conversion.

The brakes are next, then batteries in the fuel tanks since with sprung bogies the weights are redundant. Then pickup conditioning circuits and an MR601a in the roof space. Though the 601 does not have a sound unit trigger like the MR 603, I find that setting the pwm to the minimum, 120Hz, does it well enough for me.

Ted.

Are you saying that the Penbits bogies fit the all-new 2022 model?

According to the Penbits website, the answer is no.
http://www.penbits.co.uk/Content/Compatibility.html
Regards
Tony.

[zebedeesknees]

Are you saying that the Penbits bogies fit the all-new 2022 model?

Not exactly, somewhat the opposite. Ian P. is on here, so hopefully can give the definitive answer.

The bogies I ordered, E3237-241-04, were from a later model with all-wheel drive, and fitted with a little adjustment* to my original (32-776) D6707 chassis. They were test run in 'OO' form and then converted using the Penbits PK007 which included the fret pack F008. The latter hasn't been approached yet... The Hymek and the Sulzer 2s were a doddle, these are not really for beginners...

*The tower tops of the replacements are wider than the originals, and the inside chassis casting width is nominally exactly the same. Therefore any roughness of the casting will inhibit the rotation freedom of the bogie. A few wipes with a file of the insides of the casting sorted that.
Also, the excellent instructions suggested spacing the sprung bogies to ride height by 0.5 to 0.75mm, with this combination I found that double that was appropriate.

Ted.

[Daddyman]

Are you saying that the Penbits bogies fit the all-new 2022 model?

Not exactly, somewhat the opposite. Ian P. is on here, so hopefully can give the definitive answer.

The bogies I ordered, E3237-241-04, were from a later model with all-wheel drive, and fitted with a little adjustment* to my original (32-776) D6707 chassis. They were test run in 'OO' form and then converted using the Penbits PK007 which included the fret pack F008. The latter hasn't been approached yet... The Hymek and the Sulzer 2s were a doddle, these are not really for beginners...

*The tower tops of the replacements are wider than the originals, and the inside chassis casting width is nominally exactly the same. Therefore any roughness of the casting will inhibit the rotation freedom of the bogie. A few wipes with a file of the insides of the casting sorted that.
Also, the excellent instructions suggested spacing the sprung bogies to ride height by 0.5 to 0.75mm, with this combination I found that double that was appropriate.

Ted.

Thanks, I've spoken to Ian (we're in the same area group) and it's probably just a question of me (or someone else; I'm currently under the NER yoke) taking a punt on the 37 bogies that he does, and hacking what if anything needs to be hacked to fit the new model.

[DaveHarris]

Having read the forgoing remarks regarding the conversion of an Accurscale 37 to P4, and watched the video clips referred to; and read Steve Hall's article in the current issue of MRJ (301) in which he advocates a drastic soulution which he remarks in the title '(or dont try this at home)' regarding the removal of the central wheel bearings in each bogie, i decided to approach Accurascale for some assistance/clarity on such a wheel swap.
The answer i got was that the conversion was the same as for their earlier Deltic loco. They say the removal of the bogies side frames is not necessary and that the only part requireing removal is the keeper plate (hmm!). They also referred me to a photo sequence of the conversion of the Deltic and provided me with the following link: https://accurascale.customerdesk.io/#rp ... 2611541f1c.
I have viewed the phot sequence and whilst it does only appear to need the removal of the keeper plate it does not cover the small end items which everyone seems to have problems with to varying degrees.
I also mentioned Steve Hall's soultion to derailments (removal of the center axle bearings on each bogie), but this action was ignored in their reply.

Not sure if this helps or muddies the waters concerning this conversion

[DaveHarris]

Not sure why but the link given to me doesnt seem to translate between draft and the reply page properly. The link should read:

https://accurascale.customerdesk.io/#rp-customer-widget-fag-ce467992-4a82-4f4f-a9c9-a02611541f1c

[DaveHarris]

Hmmm! the link misses out part of the detail given to me and certainly doesnt take one to the shots of the Deltic conversion. Not sure why part of the link doesnt go across when retyped?
As the Deltic conversion doesnt appear on the Accrascale min site i am at a loss to understand their claim and their approved way of undertaking the conversion

[Winander]

Hmmm! the link misses out part of the detail given to me

It doesn't matter that part of the link is not displayed in your post, it will still work. It is best practice to include links in the URL tag that you see in the buttons above where you are composing the post.

Code: Select all

[url]https://accurascale.customerdesk.io/#rp-customer-widget-fag-ce467992-4a82-4f4f-a9c9-a02611541f1c[/url]

The link you supplied https://accurascale.customerdesk.io/#rp-customer-widget-fag-ce467992-4a82-4f4f-a9c9-a02611541f1c is sending you to a generic contact page. I would guess part of it is missing.