Can anyone tell me how you separate the body from the chassis on a Heljan class 14 0-6-0 please?
Many thanks
Gordon A
Heljan class 14 0-6-0. Seperating the body from the chassis.
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Re: Heljan class 14 0-6-0. Seperating the body from the chassis.
If you go to the Ultrascale site and have a look at the Heljan list for the Class 14 , and then open the data sheet it explains how to separate the chassis from the body.
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Re: Heljan class 14 0-6-0. Seperating the body from the chassis.
Thank you Dave.
However the data sheet only refers to the removal of the keeper plate.
What I am after is a how to for separating the body from the chassis.
Gordon A
However the data sheet only refers to the removal of the keeper plate.
What I am after is a how to for separating the body from the chassis.
Gordon A
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Re: Heljan class 14 0-6-0. Seperating the body from the chassis.
Gordon,
I have just dug out my Class 14 from the 'to do' pile, gathering dust at the back of my cupboard. I have extracted the leaflet which comes with the locomotive, which gives a breakdown of the individual parts used to manufacture the loco, and more relevant 4 photos and a brief description on how to first remove the drivers cabin then a screw which holds the front body in place. If you would like I could get it photocopied and drop a copy in the post to you? I have just followed the instruction and whilst the cab unit it a very tight fit, with some firm 'wiggling' and a little help from a thin flat blade it will lift off, revealing a screw which needs to be removed to allow the front engine cover to be removed, there is a similar screw the other side of the cab unit which will allow the removal of the shorter engine cover. Be careful how you hold the loco, my firm grip whilst wiggling the cab unit resulted in one of the cab steps breaking of! Now I have a job to do this evening! All in a days modelling! Hope this helps?
Oh, watch out for the little 'cowling' in front of the cab unit on the longer side of the cab, it isn't part of the main cab unit and comes away on its own, luckily the carpet gremlin didn't have time to hide it! When you have removed the cab unit and the cab control panels, one of which will pull out and the other is stuck in! You will find two holes in the main cab body weight, in which when removed will allow the main bottom weights and the electronics panel to be removed from the running board and wheels unit.
I have just dug out my Class 14 from the 'to do' pile, gathering dust at the back of my cupboard. I have extracted the leaflet which comes with the locomotive, which gives a breakdown of the individual parts used to manufacture the loco, and more relevant 4 photos and a brief description on how to first remove the drivers cabin then a screw which holds the front body in place. If you would like I could get it photocopied and drop a copy in the post to you? I have just followed the instruction and whilst the cab unit it a very tight fit, with some firm 'wiggling' and a little help from a thin flat blade it will lift off, revealing a screw which needs to be removed to allow the front engine cover to be removed, there is a similar screw the other side of the cab unit which will allow the removal of the shorter engine cover. Be careful how you hold the loco, my firm grip whilst wiggling the cab unit resulted in one of the cab steps breaking of! Now I have a job to do this evening! All in a days modelling! Hope this helps?
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
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Re: Heljan class 14 0-6-0. Seperating the body from the chassis.
Thank you David.
Unfortunately my loco is with Mike Edge to produce an etched replacement chassis for P4.
I will past you last post on to Mike and wait for his response. Mike may be being very cautious as the loco is not his.
Gordon
Unfortunately my loco is with Mike Edge to produce an etched replacement chassis for P4.
I will past you last post on to Mike and wait for his response. Mike may be being very cautious as the loco is not his.
Gordon
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Re: Heljan class 14 0-6-0. Seperating the body from the chassis.
I have just been looking at the website 'EM Gauge 70s'. This has a section dealing with the conversion of various locomotives, to EM Gauge, but irrespective of gauge it provides some useful information for you and your 'Loco man'.
Regards
Dave
Regards
Dave
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Re: Heljan class 14 0-6-0. Seperating the body from the chassis.
DaveHarris wrote:I have just been looking at the website 'EM Gauge 70s'. This has a section dealing with the conversion of various locomotives, to EM Gauge, but irrespective of gauge it provides some useful information for you and your 'Loco man'.
Direct link to Class 14 wheel conversion
That would be an ecumenical matter.
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Re: Heljan class 14 0-6-0. Seperating the body from the chassis.
Thanks chaps.
However I believe a wheel conversion does not require the removal of the body, just the removal of the keeper plate on the underside of the chassis.
Surely someone has fitted a DCC chip to this beastie?
Thanks for trying.
Gordon A
However I believe a wheel conversion does not require the removal of the body, just the removal of the keeper plate on the underside of the chassis.
Surely someone has fitted a DCC chip to this beastie?
Thanks for trying.
Gordon A
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Re: Heljan class 14 0-6-0. Seperating the body from the chassis.
Does this help? https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/magento/media/downloads/OO_Class_14_Spares_Diagram.pdf
That link about the EM conversion does mention that the Heljan instructions tell you how to take the CAB off.
That link about the EM conversion does mention that the Heljan instructions tell you how to take the CAB off.
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Re: Heljan class 14 0-6-0. Seperating the body from the chassis.
Thanks Grovener, I believe that drawing was packed with the loco.
Unfortunately the loco is many miles away with a third party who is stumped, but as it is not his is not
willing to guess on how the body is removed.
Gordon A
Unfortunately the loco is many miles away with a third party who is stumped, but as it is not his is not
willing to guess on how the body is removed.
Gordon A
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Re: Heljan class 14 0-6-0. Seperating the body from the chassis.
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I thought my recent experiences with the Heljan Class 14 might be helpful.
I too was baffled by how to do a complete disassembly, and I didn't fancy the risk of forcing anything apart. My hand was forced though when I accidentally broke one off the wires to the pickups, so I ended up having to get drastic.
I can confirm that it is possible to remove the plastic upperworks/running boards from the metal chassis block. The block is much too wide at the motor mount area for it to lift off cleanly, so the only way is to bend it up/down at opposite sides to allow the block to drop out at an angle. As risky as it sounds, there is enough flex in the plastic moulding to do this without damage. I've now disassembled and reassembled it several times without any problems.
Once the chassis block is separate from the upperworks, the cosmetic side frames remain attached to the chassis block by glue. It is possible to separate them with care, working from the ends inwards. This finally gives access to the pickups – although I ended up replacing mine with some DIY ones mounted on the bottom of the chassis keeper plate.
I’m planning to do a mini writeup of the project soon, which will include some photos to hopefully make things clearer.
Cheers,
Liam
I too was baffled by how to do a complete disassembly, and I didn't fancy the risk of forcing anything apart. My hand was forced though when I accidentally broke one off the wires to the pickups, so I ended up having to get drastic.
I can confirm that it is possible to remove the plastic upperworks/running boards from the metal chassis block. The block is much too wide at the motor mount area for it to lift off cleanly, so the only way is to bend it up/down at opposite sides to allow the block to drop out at an angle. As risky as it sounds, there is enough flex in the plastic moulding to do this without damage. I've now disassembled and reassembled it several times without any problems.
Once the chassis block is separate from the upperworks, the cosmetic side frames remain attached to the chassis block by glue. It is possible to separate them with care, working from the ends inwards. This finally gives access to the pickups – although I ended up replacing mine with some DIY ones mounted on the bottom of the chassis keeper plate.
I’m planning to do a mini writeup of the project soon, which will include some photos to hopefully make things clearer.
Cheers,
Liam
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