Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Thu Mar 19, 2015 11:08 am

Hi Mike, thanks for the comments and I hope you continue to enjoy Justin's kit.mthe trick with glue... or what I do, is to decant a little glue onto an old Pringles plastic lid and then use a cocktail stick to pick a little up and apply to the model; for the thinnest glues., it's worth sharpening the eend of the stick ... With a flat, a bit like a quill so it picks the glue up... wicks it up, then you can apply and use capillary action for it to flow where you want it to go. Well, it works for me.

Update on my pivot attachment idea... It worked! Pivot is now firmly attached using 1mm wire U shape to anchor it in place and 4 14BA screws ... all nice and tight and feels strong... and body still fits.
Photos to follow.
Cheers

Jon.

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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Thu Mar 19, 2015 9:50 pm

As I mentioned above, the pivot frame is now well and truly attached. Having taken Ian's idea of the 14BA screws I supplemented this by adding a bracing link to the chassis block using 1mm wire bent at 90 degs twice. Firstly, I used two pieces of plastic sheet cut to size to position the pivot frame... these were sized to wedge behind the existing pivot frame (fitted the proper way) - per photo
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...and then these were placed at the no.1 end and the pivot frame offered up adjacent to these so that its position could be marked... and the position for the 4 small holes marked on the block.

To give the frame the necessary load bearing capability I drilled two 1mm holes through the body block... I cut two pieces of plasticard to fit inside the pivot frame mount (that would have been used normally) through which I then drilled another 1mm hole to take the clamp wire.
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I bent the 1mm clamp wire to size and added this through both sets of holes:
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And finally trimmed the clamp wires to length, fitted the 14BA screws and secured the clamp wires back in place with a little superglue, which I could break if I needed to extract it all again.
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I held my breath and attached the body, hoping that the clamp wire would not fowl the radiator pieces (preparing to cut away a little if needed)... but it all fitted fine (just)
Seen here, looking down,
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... and with the radiator plate removed, through the opening awaiting the grill mesh
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A success, I thought!

Then it was time to tackle the bearing carriers. Instructions were followed carefully, with the only change made being to strengthen the upper bent-in pieces with superglue rather than solder as I couldn't get my iron's tip into the small space available. But... cleaned up (and please ignore the poor soldering; I'm getting better; honest) and trial fitted in the bogie frame (after a little fettling) all seemed good:
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All in all a successful two evenings work. As mentioned, previously, I've now got a very short 14BA tap... but I suppose these are the lessons we learn as we go along.

I've been very pleased with the way in which the Penbits kit has come together, as this is my first time using these and I'll certainly not shy away from them again.
Springing next...

Jon

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iak
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby iak » Fri Mar 20, 2015 9:32 am

Very impresive Jon.
Fascinating to see this beastie come to life.
I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it....

Perfection is impossible.
But I may choose to serve perfection....
Robert Fripp


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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Fri Mar 20, 2015 4:34 pm

mikeknowles wrote:Many thanks for the link to your Flickr site there is certainly some helpful photos on there. We’re planning a trip to the Barrow Hill diesel gala in April where 27066 (I think) will be amongst the line up so hopefully I’ll get some more photos there. Failing that I’ll just have to drag myself up to one of the Scottish preserved railways to have a look (it’s a hard life doing research)! I share your view about books, all they seem to show is standard front three quarters views, rarely do they show any good underframe detail as this area is usually under exposed as well.
I note some of your photos show one of the bogie steps as having holes in the main side frames. All my research seemed to suggest this type were only fitted to Class 27s, the ones on Class 26s being solid so maybe it was a replacement for a damaged one (the others seem quite battered)! If you’re thinking of fitting the Pete Harvey etched bogies steps note they only have the solid sides so for Sean’s 27025 I drilled them out accordingly as per the photos below. I drilled them after assembly as they were more rigid and less prone to distortion then and I made up a template made from a strip of plasticard to get them all(roughly!) the same.

RSCN4171.JPG


RSCN4169.JPG


Hi Mike,
I re-read your note today having received the steps from Pete Harvey to find they had the sides with the holes and not solid as I'd expected. Thus, these are not class 26 steps and only suitable for 26s that had 27 steps. I've asked whether he does the solid sided ones for the 26 (which is what I expected to see) or whether I've just been sent the wrong part.

Update: the steps are as they are... They're 27 steps as sometimes fitted to 26s later on,but they are not 26 steps. However, to fix this, I'll just need to fill the holes in... so I'll be looking at a means to achieve this and comparing details of the steps closely to check for any other differences... They're still far better than the plastic ones, so definitely a part to be included but as with many parts I use, little gets fitted just "as is"... where would we get all the fun if that was always the case ;)
Jon.

mikeknowles
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby mikeknowles » Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:27 pm

Hi Mike,
I re-read your note today having received the steps from Pete Harvey to find they had the sides with the holes and not solid as I'd expected. Thus, these are not class 26 steps and only suitable for 26s that had 27 steps. I've asked whether he does the solid sided ones for the 26 (which is what I expected to see) or whether I've just been sent the wrong part.

Update: the steps are as they are... They're 27 steps as sometimes fitted to 26s later on,but they are not 26 steps. However, to fix this, I'll just need to fill the holes in... so I'll be looking at a means to achieve this and comparing details of the steps closely to check for any other differences... They're still far better than the plastic ones, so definitely a part to be included but as with many parts I use, little gets fitted just "as is"... where would we get all the fun if that was always the case ;)
Jon.[/quote]

Hmmm, most strange. I know the steps I was referring to were the 7mm scale ones but it seems odd the "error" (if that's what you call it) isn't the same in both scales. In theory if they're being sold as 26/27 steps the fret should contain both types.
With regard to looking at other details I did find (on the 7mm ones) that the etched chequer plate overlays for the tops of the steps were too small so I had to make up new ones from some sheets I'd purchased previously. As you say, all part of the fun!
Do agree though they are an improvement on the standard plastic Heljan steps.

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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Fri Mar 27, 2015 7:45 pm

Dear all,
just a brief update this evening as I seem to be really rather tired... which I hope is purely down to the exercises to strengthen the knee as the recovery continues rather than old age creeping up on me ;)
I've continued working the bogie frames per the Penbits instructions. A jig was constructed (as in the penbits photos) to help with the brake shoe/hangars and my soldering was really put to the test with all of the cosmetic details that I've so far added. Some plastic surgery to the sideframes has seen much material cut away and it's slowly getting there. I've one bogie frame now with brake link pieces fitted and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the clearances with the outside wheel faces will still be there once its all reassembled... but yes it is very tight. I think there are some lessons to be learnt before tackling the next one of these - leave plenty of room for the brake links to clear the wheel faces.
So... a quick progress photo to show a more complete bogie frame with plastic side frames in the background ... now devoid of brake detail.
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Jon

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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Mon Mar 30, 2015 8:12 pm

Well, having just commented on Jeremy Good's post, I thought I ought to add a photo of my sprung bogie frames that are now almost complete sans primary springing cosmetics.
Some bits to be added include the piece of wire that presumably represents the brake rod tensioner screw thread and Ive yet to fit the end piece of which Ive cut the guard irons from. My loco will have snow ploughs fitted ('cause I like them) and these will be made up soon (PHD Designs ploughs for 20s, 37s, 47s.... but should fit the 26). Looking at photos I have of 26038 (which as ploughs) there are no guard irons. But that's a preserved loco.... looking at photos in numerous books (and its difficult to see) but it does seem to be the case that the irons were removed if ploughs were fitted (limited clearance... and why would they be needed?) Looking at some photos (Including the recent "looking back as 26s and 27s")... theres a good photo of a 26 being scrapped with ploughs on the floor and guard irons nowhere to be seen - other photos show nothing where a hint of a top of a guard iron should be visible... so I'm happy to not fit them.
The handbrake linkages went on well, with good clear instructions... although it seemed a little insane to be working in parts so small... but they look good and seem quite resilient.
The frames have been given a coat of brass blackening fluid too (not a brilliant finish but good enough considering that most of it will be hidden anyway), but enough to remove the brass bling shine... overall, I'm quite pleased with all of this.
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I've now moved on to the plastic side frames... something I'm more used to working with. Here, there is more to do than expected, but I'm not going to the extreme that I might otherwise do.
I had considered replacing the brake pistons, but with a little more cleaning up and use of a piece of wire to represent the piston arm ... and long enough to (hopefully) engage (ish) with the Penbits brake lever. I've also looked at the excuse for a bogie lifting point and removed these carefully, and made new ones with a small triangular piece of evergreen sheet (two for each point) with a 0.45mm hole drilled through each face. I use this to thread a short length of 0.4mm wire and glue them in place to the bogie frame. Once the glue has dried, I removed the piece of wire to leave the through holes ... and then slightly shape the outer edge, and run a piece of abrasive paper between the pieces to open the slot and thin the side pieces. If this can be modelled in 7mm (JLTRT) then I can model it here too.
Other corrections are a change to the filling cover for the sand box... I think these bogie frames are modelled on the 27 rather than the 26, so I smoothed the upper face to remove the rectagular door and added a small piece of evergreen rod that I then sanded down to represent the circular cover. The plastic representation of the outlet hose is cut off and I'll add a new one with wire or elastic (I'll see as I get further in to it).
One point that I've been looking at is the representation of the wires/pipes on the frame; looking at these, they look nothing like those on the 26. I will remove those provided and look to make some new ones along the lines of the way I made them for my 47 (Rail Express Modeller recently)... theyre all different by the looks of it, so it'll be a case of care to be taken.

The bogie steps will need some work; as has been said before; the set I got from PHD Designs were described as being for the 26 and 27 but they're only suitable for the 27 (a little annoying) ... or I suppose a 26 that's got 27 steps (which later on some did have as their got bent) so I've yet to work out how to salvage these... so that's something else to ponder. I'll provide a further update once I've more progress to share.
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Jon

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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Tue May 12, 2015 8:11 pm

I think it’s been a while since I last provided an update, but then it’s been a while since I was last able to spend any real time on this project... such is life when work and other things beckon. But, some progress has been achieved and a short write up can bring this up to date.
Whilst the metalwork for the bogies have languished within their individual trays, I spent some time looking at the Heljan bogie sideframe mouldings. These aren’t bad but some improvements are worthwhile when it starts to become clear that along with the aftermarket etched steps that I acquired, the frames resemble the class 27 frames more than the 26. There are few differences and these are addressable... but care needs to be taken looking at detail photos of preserved locos and avoiding later-modification standards... so look carefully at contemporary photos too, although these can be hard to see detail in.
The final stage of my last post identified the initial work whereby I removed the moulded lifting covers and added new ones made from evergreen sheet; in each of these, I’d drilled a 0.6mm hole and threaded a short length of 0.6mm wire to hold them in place whilst I attached them to the bogie frame, removing the wire once the glue dried (zap-a-gap green).
As stated in my earlier post, the pipework representation was incorrect for a 26, so this had to change. To remove the existing moulded relief, I used a grinding wheel to sharpen the flat blade of a jewellers screwdriver blade to form a small chisel; I then used this to cut away the moulded pipework taking care to not cut into the frame’s surface... cleaning up with some fine paper afterwards.
With careful attention to photographs, I constructed a representation of the pipework using 33swg nickel steel wire onto which I threaded small pieces of evergreen rod, through which I drilled a 0.4mm hole to enable it to slide over the wire; a thicker piece was used for the pipe hub... this having a small hle drilled in the lower face to act as the T junction as shown in photos. One frame has two separate sections of piping... so two different assemblies were bent-up, drilled-rod sections slid on and then it was all glued in place using zap-a-gap pink (the thin one).
The other side of the No.1 end bogie lacks one of the pipe sections, requiring only one piece to be added... which is useful.
Sandbox feeder pipes were checked with reference to several photos, including the two types of lower fitting, and again sections of 0.4 and 33SWG wire were used to slot into drilled-holes to take these. Test fittings with the frames and wheels verified the wire position to represent the sand feed pipe.
LR-IMG_0085-1.jpg

I’ve another set of these to do before I progress on to other details such as the steps (which need to be adapted to represent class 26 steps not class 27)... and yes the secondary springing still needs to be put in... all cut and ready, but just haven’t gotten around to adding them.
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More progress will follow, but I’ll admit that when the weather is fine, I do like to get out and about with the camera so progress does tend to slow a little.
Thanks for reading... and please feel; free to comment should you so wish.
Jonathan

Tim Easter
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Tim Easter » Tue May 12, 2015 9:45 pm

That's looking rather superb there Jonathan. I think you've convinced me enough, with this little project of yours, that I ought to give my one the same treatment too.

One thing though; have you considered replacing the brake cylinders with some that have a bit more meat to them and not in moulded half-relief? Since you've gone pretty much the full hog (and more besides!), I reckon they'd set it off an absolute treat! Food for thought....

Cheers,
Tim

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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Thu May 14, 2015 11:51 am

Hi Tim,
Thanks for the comment. Yes I did consider replacing these but I didn't have much luck finding anything that would simply suit; for my 55 I used Hornby class 50 bogies from which the cylinders can be prised away, but I looking at these, with some removal of material and adding of the piston shaft I honestly thought it'd be sufficient. I also foresaw difficulty in removing the cylinders and retaining the cast frame edging... So yes, I'll live with all of this but it's a good point and I look forward to seeing how you tackle this on yours ;)
Cheers
Jonathan

waveydavey
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby waveydavey » Thu May 14, 2015 11:57 am

The side frames from the recently upgraded Heljan 33 have separate brake cylinders which would fit the bill. Available as spares from Howes

Cheers

David
Modelling Clackmannanshire Railways in 1975
http://waveydaveysmodelmuddle.wordpress.com/

Tim Easter
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Tim Easter » Thu May 14, 2015 5:41 pm

waveydavey wrote:The side frames from the recently upgraded Heljan 33 have separate brake cylinders which would fit the bill. Available as spares from Howes


Ta David! I think those might fit the bill admirably.

Jon020 wrote:Hi Tim,
Thanks for the comment. Yes I did consider replacing these but I didn't have much luck finding anything that would simply suit; for my 55 I used Hornby class 50 bogies from which the cylinders can be prised away, but I looking at these, with some removal of material and adding of the piston shaft I honestly thought it'd be sufficient. I also foresaw difficulty in removing the cylinders and retaining the cast frame edging... So yes, I'll live with all of this but it's a good point and I look forward to seeing how you tackle this on yours ;)


Thanks Jonathan! I had a further look at mine last night; they're subtly different on the mainframe to the later style, but that's only really on the pipework side of things. I can see myself spending some money with Ian this weekend.... I'll see how I get on with the removal of the cylinders on a spare set of frames first and then carry that over to those of D5301. Whether I go to the lengths of replacing the radiator side grilles is another thing altogether. I'm keen to disturb as little of the (excellent) finish as is possible.

Cheers,
Tim

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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Thu May 14, 2015 5:46 pm

Thanks Dave... and Tim. I'd be interested to see a comparison of the two.... to see a little more detail to see how much benefit is gained. On the ones I have, the cylinders aren't too small but they do lack the cut-in that you'd get with a full cylinder rather than the half moulded item although it's not too small.... A close up of the two would be interesting if you could Tim :thumb
Thanks
Jon.

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jim s-w
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby jim s-w » Thu May 14, 2015 8:48 pm

Have you guys seen Brian's research on the 26s. Turns out they are quite a bit wrong arround the cabs.

Regards

Jim

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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Thu May 14, 2015 8:55 pm

jim s-w wrote:Have you guys seen Brian's research on the 26s. Turns out they are quite a bit wrong arround the cabs.

Regards

Jim

I know he was finding issues when taking measurements, where has he posted it?

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jim s-w
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby jim s-w » Thu May 14, 2015 9:59 pm

I don't know that he has Jon but he showed me comparrison pictures at S4N

HTH

Jim

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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Fri May 15, 2015 5:50 am

Thanks Jim. I did see the work when it was still on the computer... I think that my deduction was that it could possibly be lived with or rather it'd be difficult to fix, but I think it was the area around the grill that got squeezed and I was waiting in the grill etch to see how this could be squeezed in before deciding whether further rectification elsewhere might be necessary. Fingers crossed it'll fit.
J

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jim s-w
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby jim s-w » Fri May 15, 2015 12:12 pm

Hi Jon

It's one of those things isn't it, to my eye it doesn't look wrong (although I'm not all that familiar with the real thing) in the way that the bachmann 25, early 37 and Heljan 86 do. Sometimes it's best to not medle too much as fixing a few things can draw attention to everything else that's off. The Lima 117 was a good example of this as in fix a few things and it suddenly looks worse than where you started from.

Cheers

Jim

waveydavey
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby waveydavey » Fri May 15, 2015 2:07 pm

Well said Jim.

Last weekend I managed to take some, but not enough, measurements of a class 25/1 cab and almost wish I hadn't. Obviously the Bachmann cab is well out and the Hornby cab is better-ish but the window sizes are well undersized. In MRJ, Karl Crowther hasn't changed the size of the outer cab front windows on his 25/3 conversion and his model looks so right. They are however 0.65mm under height and a whopping 1.46mm under width. Guess who's got his files at the ready to attack his own Bach/Hornby/Silver Fox hybrid?

Cheers

David
Modelling Clackmannanshire Railways in 1975
http://waveydaveysmodelmuddle.wordpress.com/

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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Fri May 15, 2015 4:40 pm

And yes I agree, well said Jim. I think the trick is finding the balance between improving what you can see needs it and leaving alone what doesn't if, and only if, the result still balances and looks right. Case in point with Dave's comment, yes I just saw that article and yes the end result looks very nice, but as you say, wrong... but I yes how far does one go to get the right balance. It's a trial and error approach I think, but I think that given that at least we try, we are accepting that we won't always get it right. But... sometimes it does make you wonder whether the RTR manufacturers need to buy a new ruler next time they go look at the real thing... or calibrate their laser scanners.... but, at least it gives us something to play with. I suppose that if the locos were always right, we'd have to spend time looking at ways to improve elsewhere and would we ever really be satisfied ;)
Essentially, I think it's a case of do what you please; if it pleases you, do it.... it's your railway ;)

.... and thanks for the comments too :D

Jon.

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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Wed Jul 15, 2015 7:08 pm

Really sorry for not posting anything for quite a while; my railway photography has kept my spare moments occupied in the good weather and work has been busy for the rest of the time... however (such is life). But I'm trying to press on with this project and getting the other bogie to the same standard as the first - but needing to read my words here to see how I did what I did because I cant remember (I must be getting old :geek: )
Jon

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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Fri Jul 24, 2015 5:16 pm

Just a brief update... the second bogie is now modified along the lines of the first and put to one side whilst I pondered the remaining issue of the cab steps. As previously mentioned, the PH Designs items are described as suitable for the class 26 and 27 but they are only representative of the class 27 steps which has the lightening holes within the vertical side frames... fine if you want a late 26 that was fitted with robbed class 27 steps, but not otherwise. I'd been considering not using these at all, especially as they lacked the checkerplate surfaces of the steps (but I can add this I suppose)... and I did look back at the Heljan plastic mouldings to see if these could be improved. Yesterday, I had a thought that had not occurred to me previously and with a little time to spare on this incredibly wet afternoon, I thought I'd give it a try.

The etch was removed from the packaging and the soldering iron heated... flux applied to each step strip in turn and low melt solder applied along the strip... with several attempts but eventually getting it to cover the holes. It's not a completely smooth finish but with a little rubbing down and backfilling with some gap-fill glue and then smoothing down again, I'm hoping it'll do.
A quick cruel reference photo to show the half-cut etch lines so I can bend it correctly once I get to spend a little more time on this again.
1-IMG_1776.JPG
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Overall, the bogies look nice with the sideframes modified and the penbits frame looking good... well worth the effort.

Jon.

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Jonathan Hughes
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Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:02 pm

I wanted this update to be complete with photos of completed bogie frames complete with scratch built additions and etched steps. You’ll recall I’d had problems with the steps in making them actually suitable for use as Class 26 steps despite them being advertised as these and that I managed to find a solution for this ... and then, with the solder reinforced side frames, I was able to construct the steps per the instructions.
The following is my experience with the items and is purely my opinion based on my own experience which will not be the same as others, I’m sure.
I followed the PHD instructions carefully, using my hold n fold tool to assist with achieving the 90 degree bends as crisply as possible, but the material the etch is made from is quite flimsy and I struggled to get these to come together convincingly. I appreciate that by whetting all surfaces and soldering it together then it would have been stronger after assembly, but not necessarily any easier to assemble and the parts are quite small. My ability to use solder in the “gluing” was not on the cards as I’d had to solder the holes over and reapplying heat would soon open these out again. Maybe there was another way, but I couldn’t think of one. I therefore used the same glue that I’ve used for all other etch parts I’ve assembled in the past – that of Zap-a-gap green and with much effort, concentration and more than a few pounds in the swear box, I managed to complete them. They’re not the neatest assemblies, but then again the real steps tended to get knocked about so that wouldn’t matter in reality.
LR-IMG_1781.jpg

At the time, I wondered whether they were worth the effort..? I think that given that the Heljan moulded items are clumsy looking, then anything that can improve on this should be explored if it’s a detail that would bother you. On the whole, I thought they looked ok, but I did believe that they’d been overly tricky to assemble and I was glad that I’d not have to go through it all again.

When I tried a dry-fit to the bogies, I found that they wouldn’t fit. This was disappointing as there is no mention of a problem within the instructions, but the mounting frame piece (attaches to the bogie frame) fowls with the moulded pipework from the forward brake cylinder. On looking at photos it was clear that this pipe does have a tight bend radius on exiting the cylinder, so I looked carefully at the moulded frames and with a sharpened screwdriver blade and swann-morten no. 11 blade, I cut and scraped the moulded pipe away. Into the rear of the cylinder I drilled a 0.35mm hole and insterted a piece of 33swg nickel steel wire to represent the pipe, taking it onto the top of the bogie frame tight to the rear face of the cylinder. I was then able to fit the steps using a good degree of zap-a-gap green cyanoacrylate. Extra glue was applied to the inner faces of the step mounts-to-frame bond to give a secure attachment.
LR-IMG_8472-1.jpg

I’d finished the scrap-detailing the rest of the bogie frames and continues with the fitting of the steps to the bogies as before.
LR-IMG_8468-1.jpg

These were fiddly and it was hard work on the eyes.. taking many many evenings of concentration. But, I got there.
Once completed, I examined them against photos of 26038 and puzzled as to the protrusion of the steps from the frame as it looked wrong.

I assembled the bogies and fitted them to the chassis and dropped the body on to check. All assembly was straightforward (albeit still a bit fiddly and I’m no fan of models that clip the loco body in place).
On checking it was clear that the steps protruded from the bodyside by about 3 to 4mm each side. That’s not right! The step face should be flush with the bodysides; the only loco they stick out a little on is the -200 series 33s, the slim jims... but these cromptons are not slim, and thus there was a problem.
LR-IMG_8483-1.jpg

LR-IMG_8479-1.jpg

From my examination, I think that the steps attachment frame has been made to scale possibly with limited consideration given to the bogie moulding on the Heljan model which is possibly not as recessed as on the real thing... or, perhaps the attachment pieces are too long.
I did wonder if the bogie side frames were simply too far out now that they're fitted to the penbits frame, but the other bogie items are in proportion to the loco chassis so I think these are right, its just that the steps aren't. Either way, these steps would not be right on this model.
I’d contemplated what to do, and considered that maybe the side frames could be ground down, so I attempted to remove the steps from the frames... and then it all went wrong.
Because I’d had to make the steps using the superglue rather than solder, because the steps are only representative of class 27 steps with the holes that I’d had to solder over, the prising of the steps was not successful and the result was a mess. These are only good for the bin and as no spare items are provided on the etch frame this aspect will now be abandoned.
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So.... after all that effort, the finished items were unsuitable for this project. :(

I’m going to have to rethink the route to completion now because the bogie frames are now untidy with plenty of glue residue around the step attachment points. I should be able to clean some of this hopefully but I’ll save that for when my eyes are less tired. For the steps, my current only option is to use the Heljan moulded items; these are about the right size but their shape isn’t accurate, so I’ll have to have a think about what I could do with them, but I think my options are going to be limited unless some other product comes to market in the mean time. :|

This project has not been without its challenges and it continues to present new issues to be considered; I think that the under frame tanks will present a few issues but at least their overall structure is a little more robust and bulky than the items I’ve been working recently, but I don’t think I’ll move on to those items until a solution to the bogie steps can be engineered.

If anyone has any suggestions, please don’t hesitate to share. :thumb

Thanks

Jonathan

Terry Bendall
Posts: 1632
Joined: Sun Jul 27, 2008 7:46 am

Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Terry Bendall » Sun Aug 30, 2015 8:30 am

The trials and tribulations of detailing a model! :(

I think my solution to the steps problem Jon would have to make new side pieces, probably from a brass channel section .. Depending on the size needed and what is available, this might need some filing to shape and perhaps to thin it down. Another way would be to make new side frames for steps from thin brass sheet - probably 10 thou thick. Bending neatly could be difficult but a fairly deep scribed line is almost as good as a half etched one. The alternative would be to use a low melting point solder for the assembly.

When fixing this sort of thing in place I often use small pieces of 0.3mm brass wire as locating pins, These are soldered to the component and then glued into holes.

Jon020 wrote:On checking it was clear that the steps protruded from the bodyside by about 3 to 4mm each side.


Would thinning down the inside faces of the sideframes help?

Jon020 wrote: I’ll save that for when my eyes are less tired.


A head band magnifier, or similar may help.

Terry Bendall

User avatar
Jonathan Hughes
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2011 9:31 pm

Re: Heljan Class 26 Superdetailing project

Postby Jonathan Hughes » Sun Aug 30, 2015 9:37 am

Thanks for all the suggestions Terry, I will look in to the options available to see whether there's something I could knock up, although I do feel that I'd need a form of jig to get 4 that look the same. My first approach will be to see what I can do with the moulded plastic steps... I'm a plastic worker not a metal worker really so that maybe my shortcoming here. You're right about using the different temp solders but I needed a relatively low melt solder to fill the frame holes in the first place and I couldn't get a higher temp solder to flow over the holes so easily... I'm sure there's a reason but it's beyond me. So yes I possibly went down a route that had a slimmer margin for success to begin with.
The thinning of the moulded bogie frame is an option, but not now that they're detailled; it might be something to consider with a new set and 20:20 hindsight but I wasn't gifted with that ;)
I'll look at the suggestions you've made but I suspect I'll stick to the plastic ones and try to improve them unless I can suddenly develop really small hands and magnificent eyesight (yes the magnifier would help the eyes) but it's the scale that's now beginning to defeat me.
Thanks :thumb and you've given me food for thought.
Jon


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