Craftsman L&YR Class 28 Tender

[Knuckles]

Greetings all.

Warning, it's a 00 post.

Nothing fancy here, just a straight build practice session.

If ye remember I had to put most P4 building on hold seeing as I was reluctantly forced to do the big layout in 00. There is a 13' x 2' space prepared for a P4 layout in the future but for a good while most things will now be 00 anoyingly.

Anyway, over a decade ago I brought a Craftsman Class 28 (Beefed up 27 really) and kit bashed it into something else and used a different tender. Built a few more etched kits since.

In the mean time as I've been building loads of my 3D printed loco's I wanted to get back into metal construction for revision, practice and learning as it's something I want to get into with designing eventually, plus I just miss the crack and the maturing drawers need emptying ready for more kits to sit there years.

So I dug the Tender out that was never built and made a start. Chassis construction fine, am using wheels 0.5mm too big as they were to hand, can always swap later...

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...however, I don't know if it is my rusty solder construction skills (9 years since my last etched kit build!) or a fault with the kit itself but I'd like your views and knowledge if you have experience with this kit or Craftsman in general because there are bits that arn't too co-operative.

Most the kit's been fine, but the rear plate doesn't want to play. Here's it posed...

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As you can see, it isn't looking very promising. Hands up, it could be me as I've been out of practice recently but it might not be either. I'm not new to soldering kits, working and non-working but it has been a while.

So I tack joined it, adjusted it then gummed up the gaps with solder n carved it to shape. Not ideal. The provided lamp irons had no real shape or half etches so they had to be bend-estimated and as a result look a bit meh but they'll do for this practice build, not too arsed.

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Next was to add the Flairs or Beading as the instructions called them. This is where it gets interesting.
After holding them in place and sweating the tops...

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You can see an unsightly gap each side of the rear flair.
You could fit a baby elephant in one side and a medium sized hippo in the other.

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So again I solder gummed it with blobs and then carved everything to shape manually. In the gusto one side was slightly over cooked and I lost a bit of the flair base and the rear flair looks to be a bit on the piss but considering how ill fitting it was I don't think it's too bad of a comeback. More excess solder n scratches need to be smoothed out but will do that later.

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All in all I think it's a fair rescue although looks less than desirable. I'm sure after fully smoothing, completion n weathering it'll give an acceptable impression.

So, yeah, my rusty building skills or is it known to be a bit off? What's your experiences? I know the modelling here will impress no one, the purpose of showing is because I want to know if any of you have encountered a similar issue with this kit, Craftsman or another with same problem.

Is it all me or is the kit a little out? This is all I'm trying to ascertain.

[Knuckles]

Anyone?

If not fair enough. Probing for your experiences with the kit or firm/bloke etc if ye know.

The post isn't supposed to be an impressive showcase, far from it.

[DougN]

We're all here Knuckles...personally I have been on a break from work so I have done heaps on the J26. But you'll have to wait for a post tomorrow. It appears a lot of people watch/ read what we posters are up too.

Once you have come up to a problem or 2 and have questions people will jump in!

[davebradwell]

The trouble is you just kept going and no amount of suggestions are going to save it now. There was clearly something wrong with the body in the first image - perhaps the top is too wide, perhaps it should go on top of the sides but by not taking time to get to the bottom of it, one problem has led to another. This is the lesson here. Did L&Y tenders have sharp or rounded corners, I don't know?

DaveB

[Knuckles]

((But you'll have to wait for a post tomorrow. ))

No prob!

((The trouble is you just kept going and no amount of suggestions are going to save it now))

I encountered an issue and figured a bodge solution - I'm good like that perhaps waiting would have been wiser, fair.

Most photographs and drawings show them to have angular corners with a very subtle radius. Can fettle them more not a prob.

The sides and rear plate are all slot n tab so I'm 99% sure the 2 sides and rear are in the correct place. :-/

[davebradwell]

Just because there are tabs and slots doesn't mean they are in the right place - this error isn't unknown. The tapered gap in the corner and the short rear flare piece confirm there's a dimensional difference between top and bottom and possibly other pieces.

DaveB

[Knuckles]

I meant 98% I've put them in the right place. But I see as you imply it could be an error in the art work. :-/

Most of it's gone together fairly easily, just this rear bit I've had to employ the bodge.

[DougN]

Knuckles I have been thinking about your progress. Keep going it may not be an award winning model however it is YOUR work. We can only encourage you to keep going and if you make a fist of it use the entire experience to make the next one better. You can see my latest model on the J26 thread. I am very proud of what I have now achieved it is the best i can do... However the next one will be even better!

So keep going and see how good you can make it.

[Knuckles]

Thanks, it's almost done now, gave it about 5 hours last night. Needs a lot of clean up and solder neatening, gaps filling, more fibreglass brush etc. (Will have a look at your J26)

I'm not particularly new to building etched kits, built a good handfull, it's just been a while since I've done it as for the past 9 years been building mostly my own 3D printed ones. Haven't shown a lot of my older work on here since joined.

Most this kit went together fine, I'm just a bit peeved the rear bits are an iffy fit although I was a bit unsure if it was a mistake made along the way. Overall though I can live with it.

Is where we are so far. All the white metal castings have been soldered on bar the buffers which were glued. One front toolbox etch I seem to have lost so will 3D print that. The leaf springs need a tweezer tweak to be straightned a wee too. Brake pads are slightly off as the wheels I'm using are a shade bigger than required.
Building it with the parts supplied rather than looking fir upgrades as the whole build is a good practice piece to get back into things.

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It's not finished although generally close, lots of clean up still needed and running solder down the sides etc. Rear guard irons will be re-soldered further out too.

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Edir: Extra clean on sides, still bit more to go though...

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[Knuckles]

Ok so I guess this may be the last reveal style post until I build a loco for it.

It's finished bar a rear goal post for TLs or S&Ws and the front will need a tender-loco connector doing once I get a loco to pull it.

The glue in the coal is still wet and the wheels are too big by 0.5mm and the wrong type but as a practice piece cutting my teeth again they were to hand and will do, can always swap them out later. Brake blocks are a bit messy but that's my rustiness and them not having correct wheels.

All was good until the locking varnish crazed on the right side towards the front and rear. 9/10 times I pre-heat the shed, model and spray can before application. I didn't this time and payed for it. So remedy was fine sanding sticks and a slight repaint with a bit more 'BR Gunk n Rust' than initially wanted. The left side is more how I wanted it all. The WM axle boxes n springs are a bit thick n lumpy n could have done with a slight file n bend before fitting and as previously mentioned I lost a toolbox etch so substituted with a 3D print of my own devising; it isn't identical but serves.

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So, it's been 9 years since I soldered up an etched kit bar several LRM & HLK motor mounts n gearboxes.

Overall, despite being rusty n out of practice and despite the rear not fitting too well requiring 'blob n carve,' as a light hearted practice exercise getting back into things I'm happy enough with it. Any thoughts? Roughness n all I think it is convincing enough, especially at the 2FT Rule idea.
(Dunno why there is a stray pic below - it isn't there on editor n I've tried to move it to no avail)

[grovenor-2685]

(Dunno why there is a stray pic below - it isn't there on editor n I've tried to move it to no avail)

Yes it is.
When you open the editor open the attachments tab and look at the list, the first entry is duplicated and one of them has not been placed in line so appears at the bottom of the post, you need to delete one of the entries and then make sure the remaining one has been placed in line.
By the way, it looks good to me, especially the paint job.
Cheers

[Knuckles]

Thanks for the edit info, fixed it now. Must have edited it 6 times or more trying to figure that one out. Thanks about the paint too. BR Gunk livery is by far the quickest n easiest way to cover up a varnishing balls up.

Takehome - heat the shed, model n can up - always. Thought I'd be lucky for once, nope!

[DougN]

Knuckles, a trick I tend to use is place the model and the can on my heating vent, in winter (though we are coming into winter the 22year old heating unit has thrown in the towel and is waiting for a man to pronounce repair or bury the body!) . In the U.K. I guess your house would have radiators. Do the same!... I have also been known to leave the items to be painted and the spray can in the sun to heat them up.

Once warm a good rattle of the can race outside... spray, race back inside and place some where with a dust cover... but not near a heat source.

Always another way to skin the cat!

[bécasse]

I would have to say that that is one of the best renderings of the livery in which many BR steam locos ended their lives that I have ever seen in model form.

[Knuckles]

Knuckles, a trick I tend to use is place the model and the can on my heating vent, in winter (though we are coming into winter the 22year old heating unit has thrown in the towel and is waiting for a man to pronounce repair or bury the body!) . In the U.K. I guess your house would have radiators. Do the same!... I have also been known to leave the items to be painted and the spray can in the sun to heat them up.

Once warm a good rattle of the can race outside... spray, race back inside and place some where with a dust cover... but not near a heat source.

Always another way to skin the cat!

It's very similar to what I usually do TBH. Was just being idle this time!

My 3D printing shed usually needs pre-heating with the convector heater to get the resin at optimal temperatures to reduce liklihood of fails. For painting I usually leave the model and spray cans in there n and use at about 20-25c and rarely have a problem. 9 times out of 10 though if it's cold or damp y' screwed!

I would have to say that that is one of the best renderings of the livery in which many BR steam locos ended their lives that I have ever seen in model form.

Thanks. BR Gunk!
Was just a mix of washes, dry brushing and powders. Ma usual method.

Was thinking of going full ball L&YR as it's prettier but as a practice build to get back into building metal things this was a quicker....plus I had the Fox-Trasfers BR crest sheet to hand which had a lot to do with the choice.

Will have to sort a loco to go with it later.

[DougN]

Knuckes, I find sharing the painting techniques is extremely important including the products. Why? because years ago I had endless problems due to poor technique, poor preparation, poor materials. So if I help one person with my technique I am over the moon... and more the merrier!

Infact I am going to run through my technique with a local modeler one day at home! Problem is the technique usually takes hours between steps.

[Knuckles]

Yeah of course, it's partly why we all post here to share things.