Wheelswapping RTR locomotives?

[William A]

Hi all,

I'm just getting started in P4 and have built my first turnout - it's gone fairly well. I have plans for a small terminus layout and I think have settled on a 19th century LNWR layout.

Taking advantage of Bachmann's RTR Coal Tank and the forthcoming Improved Precedent seems to make sense, but the idea of having to build chassis for an otherwise perfectly fine ready to run model as well as to replace the wheels, does not fill me with joy.

I appreciate that re-using an RTR chassis instead of an all-singing, all-dancing compensated kit built one is always going to be a compromise of sorts, but is it feasible one to do a simple wheel replacement on these kinds of inside-cylinder, inside-valve locomotives (assuming the relevant clearance in the tanks/splashers)?

I don't mind if the road holding isn't as silky smooth as it might be, but clearly it would need to function correctly.

I am hoping to bolster the RTR offerings with kit builds, but as a starter for 10 - I want to know I'm going to have something running quickly, or whether it will realistically need to be re-chassied.

Many thanks

[Dave Holt]

Hi William.
Welcome aboard the P4 roller-coaster and congratulations on building your first turnout.
Although I haven't re-wheeled any RTR locos myself, I am aware of numerous very successful examples by others, several of which have been posted on here. I can recommend you browse Barrow Road's workbench and layout entries. A prolific converter of RTR locos, to excellent effect, is Philip Hall, who also posts some stuff on here - possibly in the steam locos section, where you have posted.
I'm sure you'll be able to get something running well without too much difficulty, so best wishes for your first conversion.
Dave.

[jon price]

It is pretty easy usually.

Get a box with a good lid that you won't knock over for the bits as you remove them (ask me how I know).

Note down the orientation of the bearing blocks (if there are any) as you take them off.

Use a GW gear puller, then roughen the new drive axle with emery paper putting the gear on it.

Bush the existing connecting rods with Gibson washers made for this purpose (you can make new rods when you have it up and running and you feel more confident)

Get a jig for making sure your your quartering is right first time because you don't want to be adjusting Gibson wheels once they are on. (a Bill Bedford from Eileens, or a GW)

[Will L]

...I appreciate that re-using an RTR chassis instead of an all-singing, all-dancing compensated kit built one is always going to be a compromise of sorts, but is it feasible one to do a simple wheel replacement on these kinds of inside-cylinder, inside-valve locomotives (assuming the relevant clearance in the tanks/splashers)?....

In the end it depends most on the quality of your track. While suspension improves the quality of the ride, in the end its most important function is to keep the vehicle on the tack over any minor irregularities. Good track no problem.

[steve howe]

I have the GW quartering press and its saved a lot of tears over time. I'd be interested to know if anyone has any particular preference for this or the Bill Bedford one? I'm not familiar with Bill's quartering jig and just wonder if its any easier to use.

Steve

[jon price]

The GW press quarters the wheels at the same time as pressing them onto the axle. The Bedford jig involves turning the wheels after they are fitted to the axle. Although this sounds as if it would cause problems you should be practically there anyway and the jig just helps the final tweak.

Jon

[barrowroad]

William I've not tried a conversion on the Bachmann Coal Tank but I have converted a number of RTR over the past few years as Dave mentions in his post.
If you have any difficulties I'm happy to help you.

Robin

[Tim V]

I have been promised an article on converting a Bachman 0-6-0 for the next News (hint!).

[Philip Hall]

As Dave has been kind enough to mention me I think I should venture a few words!

I’ve not converted a Bachmann Coal Tank but knowing the firm’s products, I wouldn’t have any qualms about doing one. I have a couple of basic tenets, which are basically firstly that it should run smoothly before you start pulling it apart and throwing the guarantee out of the window. If it doesn’t converting it will not improve things. Secondly, (and those of you who have read my stuff will know what I’m going to say, sorry to bang on again) the wheels on a rigid chassis must be absolutely concentric. Any eccentricity will be reflected in the engine’s motion and it will bounce up and down as it goes along.

A commercial chassis is not, contrary to what you might think, completely rigid. There is a degree of slop which would not be countenanced in a hand built chassis, but it is this very slop which enables it to work well.

Robin (Barrow Road on here) has converted lots of Bachmann engines and has posted the video results on his thread so you can see what is possible. Robin has used different methods to me in some cases but they all work beautifully.

Like Robin, I’m happy to help. A pm will reach me.

Philip