Boiler Bands

[John Bateson]

Given that boiler bands were mentioned in another thread in the last couple of days I am soliciting eperience from the group.

There seems to be four methods:-

a) supplied with kit or RTR model which often seem extremely thick
b) replace or solder in place some very thin (5') brass scale 2" wide around the boiler and firebox - all of whch is difficult to get a good result and may still be too thick
c) introduced by Alan Gibson many years ago and which I have used in the past - cuts strips of clear sellotape a scale 2" wide then attach these to the brass or plastic boiler direct or over a primer then adding painted lines or transfers on top
d) rely on transfers only, which still gives some impression of a band of steel in place.

My GC predilection moves me to the 4th option but does the community have any thoughts?

John

[steve howe]

I've used the sellotape method and it seems to work OK, you need to cut it with a new blade on a piece of glass.

Steve

[Le Corbusier]

Not a great catalogue of experience - but my current preference is the Ian Rathbone approach ... but this relies on the bands being picked out in another colour as part of the livery. That is to spray up some waterslide with the base body colour and then line on the bands with a lining pen. Cut out and apply as necessary. You can see a difference in surface level if you look close and the lining is massively simplified.

If I was doing bands in the body colour I think I would go down the electric insulating tape route applied prior to priming (remembering to let the tape re-find its natural length before trimming). Always been concerned about the longevity of the adhesive on selotape ... but perhaps the overcoating of paint/lacquer solves this?

[Daddyman]

With unlined locos I apply two (sic) layers of Fox (or similar) orange-black-orange lining on top of the primer and then add the topcoat. This has the advantage over sellotape in that the bands can be moved into position more easily than sticky tape without losing their adhesion (within reason). This method avoids what seems to me the major problem with the tape option: how do you wash/degrease the model (essential before applying topcoat) (having pawed it all over in applying the sellotape) without the tape lifting?

With lined locos I use the Rathbone method - no bands other than the transfers themselves. I previously used Hobby Holidays' copper strip 0.1mm x 0.62mm, which I thought looked very good; however, Ian said it was too narrow - I believe bands need to be 0.7mm.

[Le Corbusier]

With unlined locos I apply two (sic) layers of Fox (or similar) orange-black-orange lining on top of the primer and then add the topcoat. This has the advantage over sellotape in that the bands can be moved into position more easily than sticky tape without losing their adhesion (within reason). This method avoids what seems to me the major problem with the tape option: how do you wash/degrease the model (essential before applying topcoat) (having pawed it all over in applying the sellotape) without the tape lifting?

Excellent ... logged for future use

[John Bateson]

Tape Option
It occurs to me that during this pandemic thingy, we should all have some vinyl (or equivalent) gloves which could be used during the application of the tape. This should help stop the transfer of body oils onto the model. Must give it a try.

"spray up some waterslide"
Sounds like an idea, a quick search on eBay and Amazon showed up blank pages of "Water Slide Decal Paper A4 INKJET" which I did not know existed. I feel an experiment coming on, wonder if I can do the GC Crest?

John

[Noel]

It occurs to me that during this pandemic thingy, we should all have some vinyl (or equivalent) gloves which could be used during the application of the tape. This should help stop the transfer of body oils onto the model. Must give it a try.

Disposable Latex gloves are certainly available - they are what the medical profession uses, amongst others. Alternatively, museums, etc. use white cotton gloves, which are washable, and should be just as effective in this context.

wonder if I can do the GC Crest?

You may be able to find one on the internet which you can use, so long as you have some basic software which can resize images.

[dal-t]

If using the tape method, I'd recommend Kabuki rather than Sellotape - it may be more over-scale, but the adhesive seems to last for ever, and it cuts and takes paint far better. All of my aircraft models have for many years had seat-belts made from this material (except the 1/32 or 1/24 scale ones, where I tend to splash out on ready-painted foil - possibly another boiler band method, if your company livery features blue, red or khaki lining).

[Jeremy Suter]

Hi John
For boiler bands on lined locos I make my own transfers from decal sheet spraying body colour first then using a bow pen to draw the lines
As for Crests I have Drawn my own but I would now use transfers which I think are still available from Guilplates both in 4mm and 7mm

[DougN]

Well I hadn't thought of the problem of finger prints with the transfers and then sealing them with another coat...but I have been using the gloves for years. (i tend to spray things with Tamiya satin black which i find the easiest/ quickest and most reliable for me) The gloves I use are the food safe gloves with no powder. I can but them locally (if the lockdown isnt on) at Bunnings, I would guess that the UK has B&Q, Home base, Wicks etc who may also sell them (Wicks do and they are about 8 quid for a box of 100). I tend to buy in boxes of 100. they have a heap of uses when you know it is going to be a pain to clean your hands afterwards!

[best33]

I have redrawn the boiler in some of my kits with the position of the boiler bands marked with a line of small holes. I have then had the boiler bands half etched from 5 thou thick sheet. For conical boilers the bands are etched to the correct conical shape to prevent them buckling when they are fitted. Here is my Manor with my new boiler.

Mark

[Le Corbusier]

Beatutiful Work

[Guy Rixon]

If you don't fancy the home-printed waterslide transfers (some brands of paper are awkward to use with inkjets, apparently), you could print onto self-adhesive labels and then varnish them.

[Stuart Firth]

Scotch Magic Tape works well. It is an upmarket kind of tape with a matt finish and I have high hopes that it won't dissolve into either goo or powder as old fashioned sellotape always seemed to in old office files. I can't vouch for its longevity as I first used it only about 5 years ago!

[tmcsean]

If you don't fancy the home-printed waterslide transfers (some brands of paper are awkward to use with inkjets, apparently), you could print onto self-adhesive labels and then varnish them.

For the sort of precision you need for boiler bands, I would consider going to a proper print shop and ask them to print at the highest quality they can provide. Most of my Hollar wagon posters were printed on a very high quality solid ink printer, and some of them couldn't be printed to an acceptable standard on domestic inkjet or laser printers, which of course are fine for proofing purposes (ie getting the colour and size right).

Tony