Riveting valve gear

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Riveting valve gear

Postby garethashenden » Sat Oct 20, 2018 6:19 pm

I’m approaching the point in a kit I’m building where the instructions say to rivet parts together. How do I do this? The kit includes a few rivets. I suspect I’ll need some tools, but I don’t know what. I don’t really want to just start hammering, so some advice would be appreciated.

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David B
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Re: Riveting valve gear

Postby David B » Sat Oct 20, 2018 9:25 pm

I don't rivet. I prefer to use wire (or pins) and solder them.

David Knight
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Re: Riveting valve gear

Postby David Knight » Sat Oct 20, 2018 9:48 pm


A small watchmaker’s hammer is a good start. Are the rivets solid or hollow ended? A hollow end makes life a little easier as you can use a centre punch to start the flare. Solid ends require a bit more patience. A thin piece of paper between the two pieces will help keep them from seizing up. Practice on scrap is also a good idea.



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Re: Riveting valve gear

Postby PeteT » Sun Oct 21, 2018 8:03 am

For the thin paper I would suggest Rizla - you don't get too many funny looks for not buying tobacco or filters with it. There are 3 thicknesses, I use green which I think is the middle one.

Then I solder as per David B. 1/32" brass rivets are available and have a fatter core, or lacemaking pins.

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Andy W
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Re: Riveting valve gear

Postby Andy W » Tue Oct 23, 2018 10:17 am

I use 26mm Newey lace pins. Chemically blacken (or felt tip) that boss which will face away from the loco. Insert a pin through the front boss so the head sits against it. Make sure this isn't too tight and is free to rotate. Thread a piece of doubled-up baking foil over the back of the pin and sandwich it tightly with the rear piece of valve gear. Flux this boss and from the rear solder the tail of the pin to the rear of the unblackened boss. Obviously you have to be QUICK with a hot iron.

The foil is easier to handle than paper and doesn't go soggy so stays in place.
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