Hornby Black 5 and others...

[Mike Garwood]

Hi

I've just decided on my new build and I'm wondering if I need anything special for the tender, ie, Comet tender frame kit or just a chassis which will fit straight under. If someone could advise I'd be grateful.
I have the Comet chassis for the engine including sprung hornblocks, the Comet type..this will be a first for these as well, anybody with any tips or pitfalls to look out for?

Bye the bye I've just finished one of their (Comet) R Scot kits, nice uncomplicated build, which has resulted in a fine loco.

Also I've just had an absolute nightmare fitting brakes to a GWR County, infact I've just finished fitting a scratch set of plastic brakes, because I could not get the brakes to fit without shorting the chassis. How does everyone else fit brakes? Is their a secret that I have not cottoned onto yet?

All advice gratefully received!

Cheers

Mike

[John Bateson]

Mike,
Small piece of plasticard on the back of the brake pad shaped to suit. Very fiddly though.
John

[davebooth]

Hi

I've just decided on my new build and I'm wondering if I need anything special for the tender, ie, Comet tender frame kit or just a chassis which will fit straight under. If someone could advise I'd be grateful.
I have the Comet chassis for the engine including sprung hornblocks, the Comet type..this will be a first for these as well, anybody with any tips or pitfalls to look out for?

Bye the bye I've just finished one of their (Comet) R Scot kits, nice uncomplicated build, which has resulted in a fine loco.

Also I've just had an absolute nightmare fitting brakes to a GWR County, infact I've just finished fitting a scratch set of plastic brakes, because I could not get the brakes to fit without shorting the chassis. How does everyone else fit brakes? Is their a secret that I have not cottoned onto yet?

All advice gratefully received !

Cheers

Mike

Hi Mike,
I've not done the class 5 but an 8F. Guided to the new Comet chassis by John Brighton who claims he has not yet come across an off-centre axle hole in any of their square axleboxes, - a problem so frequent in square axleboxes and so difficult to spot and correct.
Mine were perfect and the chassis ran smoothly first time round; - excellent work by Comet.
I have always shied away from coiled springs for loco suspension , mainly because of the tiny, lively springs never being locked in place and therefore fairly easily lost. These Comet/Brassmasters springs are more substantial than others and not quite so lively, however I 'glued' them in place with Vaseline and while this seems not to effect their working it does hold the springs to their tags, and dropping a wheelset has not yet caused spring loss. I am only talking about a small blob of Vaseline on the location tag, don't be over-zealous.
'Glue' 'em in pal! (Not literally of course !)

[Mike Garwood]

Hi Dave

Thanks for another really good tip, definitely remember that!

Mike

[Tim Hale]

I wish to ask a basically similar question concerning the Airfix and Mainline 4F and 2P respectively. What is the best route to building simple underpinnings for these models?

Comet, High Level and Mashima 1620?

Tim

[Andy W]

I've prevented shorting from brakes by adding a thin smear of epoxy to the rear. Best left to dry before running!

[grovenor-2685]

For the 4F I would definately recommend Bill Bedford's chassis, should be good for the 2P as well but I have not built that one personally. These also include the tender chassis and I think he has now added the Stanier (7'6" + 7'6") tender frames.
Regards
Keith