SR 0-6-0 E2's - Latest build complete with Video Operation

[Horsetan]

EDIT: Had a change of heart; thought I'd solder it back together.

You could actually sell that to the Saatchi Gallery. The asking price would tide you over for a few years until you find a new job....

[MarkS]

E 2 Picasso?

Perhaps you should put your sculpture on eBay... name it - "kit, bashed"

[Knuckles]

Could do bit I would have to go bin digging to do so.

I think I might have accidently forever redefined the meaning of kitbash.

[Paul Willis]

Could do bit I would have to go bin digging to do so.

Go bin-digging anyway...

As has been said, bits of old kits can be very useful as ballast in chassis, etc.

I have an old metal egg-cup that I throw bits of whitemetal sprue into and stick on the gas ring to melt down into an ingot.

And a set of four old plastic business card boxes labelled "Scrap brass", "Scrap nickel", "Scrap wire" and "Scrap whitemetal". For you never know when you might need a bit of wire or nickel silver that might find a use.

<sigh> Camera's to hand. Here's what I mean...

IMG_6866.JPG

Waste not, want not. And it's useful if friends want to practice their soldering techniques, as has happened at Missenden.

Flymo

[DougN]

I only see one problem with that Flymo... once the owner passes on, the people charged with passing things onto the next generation (?) pass on the boxes to some one who has to go through and chuck the bits out. I have a box not unlike yours that is full of GWR kit bits.... some from Finney, mitchell and unknown... I have no idea what to do with the bits. Chucking them in the bin seems wasteful.... Must pull them out take a photo and post them all to a GWR modeller online! I can see that I am never going to use them!... but then again the LMS 4-4-0 I need to rebuild and get working... along with a Jinty that have crawled into my one day storage system (SWMBO... there is a system in there???? )

[Horsetan]

....I have a box not unlike yours that is full of GWR kit bits.... some from Finney, mitchell and unknown... I have no idea what to do ....

If you don't want 'em, I'll have 'em

[Paul Willis]

I only see one problem with that Flymo... once the owner passes on, the people charged with passing things onto the next generation (?) pass on the boxes to some one who has to go through and chuck the bits out. I have a box not unlike yours that is full of GWR kit bits.... some from Finney, mitchell and unknown... I have no idea what to do with the bits. Chucking them in the bin seems wasteful.... Must pull them out take a photo and post them all to a GWR modeller online! I can see that I am never going to use them!...

Well, the obvious solution is to not try dieing too often!

I know exactly your problem. Not only do I have a historic legacy of a load of GWR and LNWR bits, but I am now gathering LNER and BR period bits of GER locos at a rate of knots.

They all go (marked in a little bag if possible) in the same box of "Loco Body Parts" or whatever, and kept in case someone has a need. To whit, Knuckles' difficulties with gears for example.

It's also where belonging to an Area Group can come in. You never know who might need what, or can help you out with something.

Cheers
Flymo

[John McAleely]

Well, the obvious solution is to not try dieing too often!

I only plan to try it once

[Andy W]

As has been said Knuckles, we've all been there with white metal kits - even if we've never ended the exercise with such dramatic consequences! I think several of us recommended getting hold of a brass kit as a starter - but perhaps the white metal kit is part of all of our "apprenticeships". It's part of the learning curve we're all on. Keep going.

[Will L]

.. but perhaps the white metal kit is part of all of our "apprenticeships". It's part of the learning curve we're all on.

Absolutely, and well cast white metal is all but ideal for some wagons kits, hence the enduring popularity of D&S's offerings.

Poor products of all sorts are the problem, and they are most problematical for beginners because they don't know enough to spot them in the first place and then doubt their own abilities when they can't get them to work as advertised. The editorial in the latest MRJ (220) says it better.

That said I do think that working out how you can get a silk purse out of a pig ear is one of those great learning exercises. Does demand enough confidence to doubt the product and trust yourself thou.

Will

[Knuckles]

Thing is Flymo, I have a similar system to yourself in keeping odds and ends, bits n bobs, scrap etch etc. I can't honestly think of what I'd need scrap white metal for. I use roofing lead for weight because a sheet/roll lasts ages and is easy to shape.

I agree with Will L on the kit building issue. Newcomers don't fair well for the future if the kit they are building is harder than it needs to be.
I'm no newcomer to kits as I've been modelling for around 15 years but after looking at the Hornby model I just can't be bothered anymore to faff with something that will not make a superior model. I was decieved into thinking it would be better simply because it is a 'kit'. Lesson learnt.

As I replied to someone on RMweb, I'm not condemning white metal as a modelling medium because I know that some kits go together reasonably well and I've seen that a good result can come about with perseverence, yet my first impression indeed has put me off the stuff. I've done plastic most of my life, dabbled in brass and nickel silver and think I'll stick to those unless there is zero alternative.

Mini update...

I just phoned Markits and had a nice chat about the gear that is offered...it still has the hole in the teeth. YAWN! He said he's been thinking of machining one without though.

So

I phoned High Level up and had another nice chat regarding a 1/54 Road Runner + 2mm shaft.
He didn't have any at the time but he said he can send me one that is identicle lest for two fixing points for the motor, so after a look at mine and further talking I decided to accept. He also said that he'd send the 'proper' etch later if I wanted it.

Just got to wait now.

Oh yeah, I also have a bid on ebay for a Hornby E2 body.
I'm unsure weather to leave most of it as is, or extend the bunker and tweak the curves at each end.

[Armchair Modeller]

Glad to hear that you are taking all these setbacks in such a positive way! Good luck with the new body and gear bits

[Knuckles]

Many thanks.

My life is a story of setbacks and disapointments, so I've almost lost hope of anything 'truly' going my way. Conditioned somewhat.

I'm open to suggestions of how to improve the Hornby body if anyone knows or has ideas. I haven't decided if I'm going to bash it yet but an extension of the bunker has been suggested a couple of times to me, and I think the curves of the runnin gplate are a bit too obvious, but unsure yet what I'll do.

[Armchair Modeller]

Reminds me of a quote from Winston Churchill

Success is not final, failure is not fatal: it is the courage to continue that counts

[David Thorpe]

but unsure yet what I'll do.

I think I'd do the chassis first - make sure it fits the body and runs well. If it does, it might then be worth your time and trouble to work on the body - if it doesn't, it isn't!

DT

[Knuckles]

Good advice. Think I'll do that first then. Most logical I must say.

[Knuckles]

Ook, high Level gearbox arrived today so I spent an hour or two carefully building it.

Apart from me not shaving the crank pin retainers enough, and the coupling rods 'possibly' being a wee bit slack, here is the resultant running.

I'm very bloody happy! Also I think it's safe to say you have another High Level proselyte.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RCId7q29vg
(Unsure how to embed)
Please see what you think.

[Mike Garwood]

Bl**dy well done! Moves really nicely, you have gotta be ;

a. Relieved
b. Satisfied

Keep going Gav you are an inspiration. Did you find any problems, other than mentioned, in putting the gearbox together and how is the final drive fixed to the axle? I know Mr High Level does 2 types, so I was just wondering which you choose.

Mike

[Knuckles]

Thanks, Mike.

I just used the grub screw for the final drive and it seems fine. The layshafts are fixed at one end with Loctite 243. I only have that type but brought it specifically because it is not as strong as the 600-whatever's. Gives me more chance of correcting a balls up.

The only problem I had was the hours of careful reaming and trying to get those mini washers in with the cogs and layshaft all at once. You need 8 hands.

Another good things about this gearbox is you get spare layshaft material because you have to cut it yourself. Could come in use one day.

I'm a little apprehensive of the durability of the plastic cogs, but it seems fine.

A) Relieved - Yup!
B) Satisfied - Yup!

Just hope I get the body ok and then do a good job of that, once I've decided what remidials it needs.

[allanferguson]

For assembling these wee beggars a good tip is to put a smear of grease on everything so they stick together during assembly. I use whatever I have handy for the boat, which tends to be waterproof grease, but I think anything does. People sometimes worry about putting the "right" sort of grease in Gearboxes, but really the only issue would be if it attacked any plastic parts, and I think these acetal gears are pretty immune.

Allan F

[Mark Tatlow]

Well done Knuckles, that goes very smoothly and you should be proud of it. Getting a smooth running chassis is much more difficult than getting P4 to work - and of course chassis come in all gauges and scales!

I prefer the grub screw high level gearboxes. I think it is their "+" ones (ie those that have the extension piece) but that Chris will provide the final drive as a crew fit on request. A good technique to use is to flatten the top of the axle where the screw is to bear onto it; this gives it a tad more key.

[Knuckles]

Thanks Mark. I'm using a Roadrunner +
I know about the axle flattening but what is a Crew Fit? That is something I have never heard before.

[Mark Tatlow]

but what is a Crew Fit? That is something I have never heard before.

Are that would be screw fit without the "S".

I am one of a dying bread that still spells it like that (which is a private joke that a few will react to!)...................

Sorry about the confusion.

[JFS]

No, No, I think you meant a Crewe fit - a Swindon term and the reason why LNW locos clanked a lot. Also referred to as a "pr*ck in a bowler 'at" fit. (though at Horwich that was what they called the Superintendent).

(retreats to safe distance)

Howard.

[David Thorpe]

Well Knuckles, my hat is off to you, I must say. To be honest, I never thought you were going to get that chassis working in an adequate manner. But what do I see? Not only a working chassis, but also laid and ballasted track, some fairly complicated pointwork, and a string of wagons. And all things considered, you've not only done that in a remarkably short time, but (forgive me!) have also sometimes used methods which might not always satisfy the purists but which very much appeal to bodgers like me! Careful though - if you carry on like this, Terry will be after you to do demos next!

DT