SR 0-6-0 E2's - Latest build complete with Video Operation

[Philip Hall]

What a lovely little engine. And all your own work too, since you designed all the CAD and printing stuff. I would say though that I don’t think the compensation beam being under the wheels should work, since the compensated axles ought to be supported by the beams. As they are, if one wheel goes up, it will just leave the beam behind. But if it works...

I also am impressed by the contents of your showcase. You have been busy building over the years, and your miniature record of the Railway Series is a credit to you. Reminds me to seek out my combined volume of the Railway Series again!

Philip

[Knuckles]

What a lovely little engine. And all your own work too, since you designed all the CAD and printing stuff. I would say though that I don’t think the compensation beam being under the wheels should work, since the compensated axles ought to be supported by the beams. As they are, if one wheel goes up, it will just leave the beam behind. But if it works...

I also am impressed by the contents of your showcase. You have been busy building over the years, and your miniature record of the Railway Series is a credit to you. Reminds me to seek out my combined volume of the Railway Series again!

Philip

Thanks Philip.

You're right about the beam. Being only the second time I tried this I noticed after I fitted it wrong.

Thing is it is running so well I'm loath to touch it unless something goes wrong. It starts and stops really slow and smooth just how you want a loco to do so and after testing it with phospher bronze pick up strip as an obstruction it just bowls right over them even slowly without derailing or stalling.

If it goes a bollock later I'll take opportunity to orient the beam correctly and see if it improves. In truth I doubt it can improve much though. Can get a vid if you want.

I built more RS engines than the case, at least 4 others but they are in foam stock boxes. What goes in the glass case cycles as it is the only room I have for one.

[RobM]

+1.....
Rob

[Knuckles]

Thanks Rob.


Ok cushy update.

I sorted it, little birdy in the mind wouldn't shut up so I took the keeper plate off, removed the wheels, poked the 'compo' pin out, turned the bar around and then after a bit of trial and error bent it to where it worked properly. Result is great running again also slightly improved so I'm uber pleased.

When I glued the lead shot in the 'ballast bin' I forgot to not get the glue between the keeper. As a result ol' Bonehead had to rip it off and sort another out. So I went to the Nylon12 keeper plate, tweaked it a bit and fitted that instead. Is a better material for a keeper plate anyway despite being a bit bendy. It has been painted black since.

So here we go, screws turned, keeper off, wheels out and compensation bar swapped around..



After some bar tweaking you simply reverse the process...




Good init!

Ok and here is a video...

[youtube]/watch?v=PymLnRggKX0&t=2s[/youtube] EDIT: Tried about 4 times getting the YouTube codes to work deleting different portions, utterly useless unless you know. Forget it, just click the link below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PymLnRggKX0&t=2s


Previous page for all the pics and building details.


Edit: In the video there is some 'brake squeal SFX as the compensation beam is too tight on the axle, however I just cured it by loosening the beam a tad. Sorted!

I read a lot about bushes rotating being bad as it can cause wear quicker. I agree that this may not be the best but what I can say is, based on how quick and easy it is to remove the bearing carriers for new or different types I don't think it is even a worry. The above tweak only took a few minutes and changing carriers would be quicker.

Completed pics on previous page.

I will be increasing the compensation by 0.1mm up and down. It technically is sprung too as the wiper pick ups are on top pushing down. Possibly best running loco I done. Could do with lots of points to run it through though.