Spectacle plates

[nberrington]

Greetings all. I'm busy with a Jidenco kit (class 700), and have found it impossible to keep the spectacle plates round. Removing them from the fret and filing the pips distorts it, and it is always wonky thereafter. Is there a source of nicely turned ones, or perhaps someone has some advice.

As an aside, in spite of the vintage of the kit, this loco is a nice little challenge, (eBay sometimes offers up some gems). The previous owner had however taped the kit to card - which after 20 odd years is tough to shift. I discovered (by trail and error) that Plastruct weldene will soften it sufficienty to gently buzz it off with a Dremel and polishing brush. One can also see the reason not to inspect your kits to closely (unless you intend to build it soon), as the fingerprints are tarnished into the metal (more burnishing).

Neil B

[David Knight]

Neil,

You have a couple of options, you can anneal the existing ones by heating them to dull red and allowing them to cool. They can then be flattened in a smooth jawed vice- disadvantage- more polishing to do. Failing that Mainly Trains has a fret of assorted spectacle plates that might serve.

A suggestion for the next time. Give the article to be de-pipped plenty of support and get a very fine (number 4 cut) jeweler's file for the job.

HTH

David

[Tim V]

Try brushing Cillit Bang over the etches, should bring them up a treat

[nberrington]

Tim - what the heck is "Cillit bang" (never 'eard of it this side of the pond)

[Tim V]

Something that is used to remove lime scale, clean shower heads, takes tarnish off a treat.

[nberrington]

There is a product in Canada called CLR that is used for removing scale - I'll give it a shot on a bit of scrap and see what happens.

[Mike Garwood]

Tim
I had heard that if this (Cillit Bang) isn't removed properly ie, fully cleansed, it can give problems in the paint shop. Have you had any experience of this, or has it been plain sailing and just the usual good clean before commencing paint?

regards

Mike

[nberrington]

I have noticed with flux remover, that it leaves a powdery residue from it's reaction to the flux, and one certaily needs to give that a good clean. I've taken to a dunk in Poly Clens, rince off with distilled water via airbrush, dry with airbrush. The NO TOUCHY - straight to primer booth.

[Tim V]

Hi Mike

Cillit Bang can cause these problems if it's not cleaned off properly, but the poster was asking about cleaning the etches before soldering - removing fingerprints and tarnish.

Cleanliness is very important after soldering, a good wash in Flash is what I usually use.

[Mike Garwood]

Hi Neil

What is Ploy Clens, what does it do and where can it be found?

Mike

[nberrington]

Hi Mike

I'm not sure of the solvents in it, but it is a wicked paint remover/ brush cleaner available in North America. (Comes in large 1l cans and smells like no other toxic solvent known to man.) I put mine in a large canned fruit jar - an entire loco will happily have a swim in the container. (It also seals nice and tight)

It will strip just about anything. Unlike thinners, doesn't seem to eat epoxy glues. However, don't put plastic near it. Great for cleaning out airbrushes, but chases all occupants out of the workshop!

I am not sure if there is a UK equivalent, but it's marvelous stuff! I suspect the nearest thing would brush cleaning solvent sold in art shops (for oil based paints)

Cheers

Neil

[John Bateson]

Polycell Polyclens is available from B&Q at £15 for 2.5 litres. There is no way of knowing if this is the same as the USA Polyclens. I have used it as a brush cleaner, but prefer to use standard cellulose thinners for stripping paint.
John

[Alan Turner]

Polycell Polyclens cleans brushes of liquid paint. It does not, as far as I have found, strip hardened paint. It is however water soluble.

Polycell brush restorer does attack hardened paint but slowly. It is also water soluble.

Alan