The Great 3F build off

David Knight
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby David Knight » Sat Dec 14, 2013 3:02 am

Thanks Russ, there is enough spring in the tail that it is easy to remove the whole gearbox yet firm enough to support everything.

A little more work done today. I turned up a pressure gauge (non-functional) for the cab wall and attached the roof. The final step will be to attach the cab to the footplate. Oh yes, and the rear handrails, always some little thing :roll:
Cab with gauge.jpg

I'm trying to set up the engine brakes in the same way as I did the tender brakes, so that they will clip on and off in the style of Gibbons/Bedford et al. I've made up a small jig to help with the spacers that set the brakes away from the frame.
brake jig.jpg

Nothing flash, just a couple of brass pins with spacers into a piece of MDF that was packing in some forgotten flat pack item.
The next trick will be to set up the rigging so it resembles that of the prototype. There is some help in the drawings in the book on Caley 828 but I may deviate in order to produce something a little more robust.

Cheers,

David
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David Knight
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby David Knight » Wed Dec 18, 2013 1:27 am

A bit of gilding the lily here that I hope doesn't fall into "I do hate it when..." territory. One of the features that shows up in pictures of the 812 class is the counterweight on the valve gear. The kit does not offer anything to model this feature and in fairness the kit was designed in 1989 before such features would have been practical due to the limited choices of drive gears at that time. Anyway, I remembered Neil Berrington mentioning that he was going to investigate Brassmasters kit for an inside movement for the Fowler 4F and I thought I might do the same. An order was placed and the etch arrived along with copious instructions. The full set was not going to work since the 4F had piston valves and the 812 had slide valves but there was an extra set of round counterweights provided for variants in the 4F class that could be easily adapted for my purposes. I present the results for your scrutiny and/or amusement.
counterweight.jpg

I used the spare ingredients from the kit and modified them by placing all the discs for the counterweight on the right hand side of the unit and trimmed the left hand side to match the pictures of CR 828's gear. Spare bits of tube and rod plus some fret waste made up the remaining parts and now the gap is filled.
The remainder of the motion etch is still complete and will be fitted in whole or in part to a 4F frame lurking in my "to do" bin.

Cheers,

David
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Julian Roberts
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Julian Roberts » Fri Dec 20, 2013 8:03 am

Jim at Caley Coaches kindly provided me with an etch for the reversing gear counterweight etc, for £5 or less, I forget. Fraid I didn't take pix during construction of that phase, but this shows it, loco on the way to completion two or three years ago.
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David Knight
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby David Knight » Fri Dec 20, 2013 2:48 pm

Interesting pic Julian, the counterweight does show up well as does the rest of the engine :thumb
A couple of questions if I may, the dome and chimney look turned rather than cast, did you modify them or are they original from the kit? Second, I've been puzzling as to how much to trim the front guard irons which seem too long for the purpose, how did you finally sort yours?

Cheers,

David

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Julian Roberts
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Julian Roberts » Fri Dec 20, 2013 5:59 pm

Thanks! So far I've never built a loco where the guard irons were right, but maybe that's still my fault (I'm on my 9th now in 15 years!) Yeah, here's 2 pics - the counterweight is worth putting on, but I like to highlight details with the weathering (Allan Goodwillie has done some proper weathering on this loco since the following photo of the painted loco was taken, giving me a tutorial by example!) Can't remember what I did with the guard irons exactly, I could have overlaid the bit I'd cut off in the earlier picture, at the suitable place to give correct length, as the shape was fine... All the fittings are from Markits, I didn't really like the cast ones in the kit. It is rather a fuss and expense not really appreciable except from this sort of distance, but when I'm making the thing I'm much more fussy (anal?!) than any time subsequently...

The thing I did on this loco that's a bit outside normality was to alter the crank throw of the Gibson wheels, reducing it to the correct amount. None were available with the correct throw as well as the rest, and I got away with it to my satisfaction, to the extent it runs pretty smoothly, as far as is possible without a flywheel. I have decided that any small tender engine I make in the future without room for a flywheel will have a big motor and flywheel in the tender and UJ drive to the loco.

The brass coupling is from the EMGS and enables the tender to rest on the loco yet twist, as well as (obviously) curve, (as per Mike Sharman Flexichas), only the rear axle takes any weight on the tender, the rest of the weight is transferred to the loco which is compensated in the Mike Sharman style. So the loco is thereby much heavier and can haul a decent train.
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Julian Roberts
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Julian Roberts » Fri Dec 20, 2013 9:25 pm

Dave: It's a year ago you were doing the cab, sorry I've only just alighted on this thread. For what it's worth for anyone else, Jim at Caley Coaches sent me (free) an amended part for P4 for the floor etc, that included the boxes that cover the wheels, which made it a whole lot easier.

Nice roof, that was really difficult I found.

David Knight
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby David Knight » Sat Dec 21, 2013 12:51 am

Hi Julian,

As it happens the P4 cab floor (for lack of a better name) was included in my kit. I discovered it more or less by accident but was glad I did as it makes the interior of the cab that much better. Jim has been supportive of my efforts too supplying some free replacement parts for etches that weren't quite right and replacement bits at a nominal price for my mistakes.

It is good to see your finished product as encouragement that I'm on the right track. The 812 is my first full engine and tender kit so there are new challenges along the way. Apart from a couple of frames my only previous engine was a HighLevel Neilson kit which rather spoiled me for anything else due to the well thought out design and instructions plus all the drawings that helped tremendously.

Anyway, I'm going to try and turn a chimney and dome because, like you, I'm not totally happy with the castings and Markits don't seem to make them anymore.

Cheers,

David

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Horsetan
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Horsetan » Sat Dec 21, 2013 3:58 pm

This 3F thing looks like fun. I'm sure I've a qualifying kit somewhere..... :shock:
That would be an ecumenical matter.

David Knight
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby David Knight » Sat Dec 21, 2013 4:57 pm

Horsetan wrote:This 3F thing looks like fun. I'm sure I've a qualifying kit somewhere..... :shock:


The more the merrier :D

Cheers,

David

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Horsetan
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Horsetan » Sat Dec 21, 2013 6:01 pm

It's only a Jocko/Jinty....
That would be an ecumenical matter.

DougN
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby DougN » Sat Dec 21, 2013 8:49 pm

So Horse start building and photographing! People want to see what you are up too. Umm reminds me to drag camera out for some more on the D17!!!!! ;)
Doug
Still not doing enough modelling

David Knight
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby David Knight » Sat Dec 21, 2013 9:42 pm

Horsetan wrote:It's only a Jocko/Jinty....


Ah, but it's an engine and it meets the 3F qualification.

The whole idea of this thread was to get three of us building kits that had 'matured' for far too long. We were geographically spread a bit thin, Neil in Winnipeg, Mark in Toronto and me in Guelph so doing it in this Forum seemed the best way of going about it. Neil and I had done much the same thing with the HighLevel Neilson tank see- viewtopic.php?f=20&t=1346 and it worked so we opened the idea up to a class rather than a single type of engine. Anyway, muck in Ivan, you know you want to :thumb

Cheers,

David

David Knight
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby David Knight » Sun Dec 22, 2013 8:57 pm

A little 'show and tell' today followed by an engineering question.

First off, the smokebox door for the 812 is a lost wax casting with the door, hinges, and a spot for the handle casting. I was not overly fond of the original so I asked for a second one, sent FOC by Jim, but it differed little from the first so I decided to have a bash at improving on the job by doing up my own hinge and straps to replace the droopy ones on the casting.
Smokebox doors.jpg

The original on the left and the new version on the right.

The technical bit. The 812 has a comparatively long coupled wheelbase of 16' 9" so I'm wondering about curves. Most of my turnouts are B6 and the main radius is 48" but there are a few bits that might be a bit tight and I have running rights on a layout that dips as low as 36". I know that side play on the driven axle should be minimal and that the centre driver can have a bit of slop but how about the front set? I'm screwing up the courage to press the drivers on to their axles and would like to have to do it just the once. Any suggestions?

Cheers,

David
edited for dodgy spelling
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Julian Roberts
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Julian Roberts » Tue Dec 24, 2013 11:26 am

Nice door improvements! I arranged half a mm sideplay each way i.e.1mm total movement on middle drivers. But none on front. For 4ft minimum curve. Possibly not all that is needed. Frames have to be built that bit narrower to allow that. Sure others will offer better qualified advice re front wheel sideplay. I try to avoid that as we use AJ couplings on West of Scotland 4mm group layouts so need the stock to be as straight to the track as possible.
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Julian Roberts
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Julian Roberts » Tue Dec 24, 2013 12:44 pm

Please excuse my brief sentences. On delayed trains in storm battered UK and struggling with mobile phone to write. You have welcomed my (via private messaging!) idea of offering thoughts on how I found the next stage of joining the boiler and footplate. (Being on my first brass kit at the time). When home I will when I have time look up my notes but as a first thought I wonder how rigid your footplate assembly is. If it can still twist or bend, which mine could, it might be worth fixing a temporary element e.g. a diagonal crosspiece or two fixed with 70deg solder perhaps, so easily removed, under the assembly, in such a way that the footplate is completely square straight and level. I think I just had begnners luck that I only ended up with minimal twist on the footplate. When fixing on the boiler etc there are a lot of issues to consider simultaneously and to have the footplate a fixed entity reduces the unknowns".
In reply to your message I just used 145 solder and 25 watt iron and made small tacks until satisfied the fitting was correct. Then flowed the solder.
Further thoughts may be delayed by festivities and family reunion!... Seasonal greetings! Julian

David Knight
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby David Knight » Tue Dec 24, 2013 2:31 pm

Thanks Julian. I'll check out the rigidity of the footplate and brace as needed. Christmas first, trains later.

Cheers,
and a Merry Christmas!

David

Philip Hall
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Philip Hall » Tue Dec 24, 2013 6:10 pm

You lads are mighty lucky in being able to think about making trains on Christmas Eve. I had intended to do a little bit, but all the soldering I have done is some leads on a DIN plug to fix the TV link to the hi - fi!

Happy Christmas!

Philip

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Horsetan
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Horsetan » Tue Dec 24, 2013 9:23 pm

DougN wrote:So Horse start building and photographing! People want to see what you are up too. Umm reminds me to drag camera out for some more on the D17!!!!! ;)


Currently building a GNRI "S" in 21mm gauge. Barely a 3P, rather than a 3F, but loads of technical challenges especially in the elderly ex-TMD chassis design.
That would be an ecumenical matter.

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MarkS
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby MarkS » Wed Dec 25, 2013 12:54 am

Well Horse, pictures are always welcome, a chassis is a chassis even at 21mm!
Does TMD still exist? I have one of their S&DJR vans, reasonably advanced back then...

BTW are you still riding?
Cheers,

Mark.
"In the end, when all is said and done, more will have been said than done..."

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Horsetan
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Horsetan » Wed Dec 25, 2013 12:24 pm

MarkS wrote:Well Horse, pictures are always welcome, a chassis is a chassis even at 21mm!
Does TMD still exist? I have one of their S&DJR vans, reasonably advanced back then...


Photos are on the Irish Railway Modeller forum. Do join, if you have time....

TMD are long dead, but all of the Irish kits were taken over by Studio Scale Models which is run by Des Sullivan in Ennis, Co. Clare. He recently released a kit for the Edgar Bredin GSR "800" 4-6-0. Magnificent, and can be built in 21mm as well.

BTW are you still riding?


Is the Pope a Catholic :?: :thumb
That would be an ecumenical matter.

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Julian Roberts
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Julian Roberts » Fri Dec 27, 2013 9:13 am

Dave
Unfortunately work takes me away soon until New Year's Day. Just a few thoughts for now, this is written in haste.

I found the instructions left ambiguities all the way along for a novice like me at that time, and there was a fair amount of work to do to make some parts fit. I am now making another brass loco - a Gibson kit, LMS Compound - and have found the process easier, particularly in that he arranges a nut and screw fitting of the firebox to cab and smokebox saddle to framing, so that one can arrange to have a bit slop to give adjustment before tightening up when it looks correct, then soldering together.

However I ought to say I never thought of contacting Jim Smellie to ask his advice as I went along.

I attach a series of photos in a following post of the body as it now is from underneath in case that helps, I didn't have much idea what I was aiming for, prototype photos not being quite relevant or available at this angle in the 828 book that I also found most helpful otherwise. I attach photos with some embarrassment but I hope they help and I find the more the better when building.

I fixed the cab on to the footplate and got that all square and correct before doing the boiler. I can't quite see if you're doing that, I think I was following the instructions.

In your pic a while back, November 17th, of all the parts, there isn't any sign of the smokebox inner wrapper. As far as I recall, the boiler is 4 thicknesses at the front - inner tube, boiler wrapper, smokebox inner wrapper, smokebox outer wrapper, rather a complicated process altogether. However I was doing all this 2 years ago or more, sorry if I get anything wrong.

The outer wrapper has to curve away from the boiler and meet the inner edge of the front sandbox, following the rivets shape of the smokebox front. Once it has met the sandbox inner top edge it doesn't much matter what it does, I suggest don't solder it to the front any further down than that level - because at this point what matters is the slot for the front driving wheels - so, that outer wrapper needs to be out of the way. I seem to recall it was a bit long and had to be shortened each side to allow the boiler to sit down.

By the way any sideplay you may want in the front wheels is fairly restricted by what you can arrange here.

I see you've fixed the front sandboxes on already. Mine went on after the boiler assembly was fixed on. As you've done this there could be an argument for soldering the smokebox front piece to them in its correct vertical orientation. Then the boiler would just have to be fixed between cab (if like me you fix that on in advance) and smokebox front, but the verticals would have all been taken care of and all you have to do is get the boiler level. Getting everything square and level is the challenge as I indicated previously when suggesting getting the footplate braced.

Whatever order you do things, the firebox bottom can be soldered to the framing last, and fixing the firebox front could be left until you're at that stage. However make sure the latter will fit while the boiler is still separate, I had to do some work for that, with a saw I think to deepen the slot. As far as I recall the firebox sides fitted inside the cut outs in the framing, and after completion I filed those sides back until they were not protruding below the frames.

By the way I like the inner framing you've done for the middle splasher. But just a thought though, that I put wiper pick ups on the top of the wheel inside that splasher, I think that option you've closed off but of course there are others.

The thing I found I had to bodge the most was the rear of the smokebox saddle. The piece in the kit I found didn't seem to fit in that it seemed too small, on thinking about it I wonder if it was correct for 00 gauge. Anyway hopefully you can see from my pic what to aim for, I think to make a new part using the kit one as a template, but wider so that it meets the inner vertical from the sandbox, may be the best option, but I just got creative with large blobs of solder and files and odd bits of shim.

Anyway, best of luck. I do hope I'm not talking as if to grandma how to suck eggs, sorry to any extent that I may be, obviously if you can turn chimneys etc you are a proper engineer while I am just a musician, a lathe would be a step too far while I still work at least....
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Julian Roberts
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Julian Roberts » Fri Dec 27, 2013 9:39 am

Some photos of 812 body underneath. Apologies everyone if this is taking an inordinate amount of space on the forum for rather unsightly photos!
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David Knight
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby David Knight » Fri Dec 27, 2013 9:12 pm

Julian,

Thanks for the added info, I'm glad to hear that someone else has had a spot of bother with the kit and it's good to know that the problems are not insurmountable. It seems to me that the further in time we get from the prototype the more important it is to furnish decent drawings to give an idea of how the bits either go together or how they look when assembled, the old "picture is worth a thousand words thing". That said, it helps if the builder (me) follows along in the suggested order so some of my troubles are self inflicted.

To address some of your points; The cab has been fastened and made square so it is ready to receive the boiler. I did put the front splashers on in a fit of enthusiasm but on reflection have removed them since it will be easier to fettle the splashers than the boiler when it comes to final fit, besides, the area is nicely tinned now so things will be that much easier, right? ;) The correct number of wrappers is on the smokebox (photographic evidence to follow) after a bit of fussing and the eventual use of a small butane torch to sweat things together. As an aside, I have to wonder, does a 40 watt iron at 115 VAC produce as much heat as a 25 watt iron at 220 VAC? Whatever, my iron was not up to the job and the instructions do mention the use of a small torch as an option. I am going to put the final joining of cab and boiler on hold until I can get some lower melting point solder as my 179 mix combined with the mass of metal involved is just not going to work well.

I've decided that allowing sideplay on the middle drivers should be enough as my Dinghams can be a bit fussy on corners so I'll not test them. I've trimmed about 2mm off the bottom of the firebox as it was resting on the CSB springs. I also took advantage of the opportunity to open a slot for the reversing lever in the cladding. In the meantime I'll get on with getting the wheels fitted and designing some pickups so I can see if the thing is going to move :? .

Your comment about not contacting Jim was an interesting one. I have been in touch with him about getting spares but the biggest obstacle was the embarrassment of having to start " I bought a kit from you about 12 years ago and...." :oops:

Thanks for the pics, they will be useful :thumb

Cheers and a Happy Hogmanay!

David

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Horsetan
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Horsetan » Sat Dec 28, 2013 9:58 pm

davknigh wrote:..... the embarrassment of having to start " I bought a kit from you about 12 years ago and...." :oops:


12 years is nothing. I started two kits about 20 years after I acquired them.....
That would be an ecumenical matter.

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Paul Townsend
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Re: The Great 3F build off

Postby Paul Townsend » Sun Dec 29, 2013 6:48 am

Horsetan wrote:
davknigh wrote:..... the embarrassment of having to start " I bought a kit from you about 12 years ago and...." :oops:


12 years is nothing. I started two kits about 20 years after I acquired them.....


Ah yes but did you need or get customer support?

My record is 29 years from purchase to build and yes the vendor was still able to advise...sadly he is no longer with us. I won't name him as half of you will have his products still in boxes and I can't cope with a flood of support requests..... too many demands on my time just now :shock:


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