how to dissolve araldite??

[spencerman]

Hi everyone
I have a long time stored (but not scrapped!) Wills 2251 model partly assemled.
It is held together by copious amonts of fossilised araldite!
I would like to attempt to reassemble it using low melt solder. I have been
practicing!
Does anyone know how to remove araldite chemically, or is it a dental burr and the mini drill?
thanks in advance for any advice

Philip

[Russ Elliott]

Try Nitromors.

[David Thorpe]

According to Selleys, who make the stuff, the product (Araldite 5-minute adhesive) is chemically resistant and solvent will not dissolve it. They suggest that to remove the product after cure, mechanical action (scraping or sanding) is recommended. However, the bond weakens if heat (over 65 degrees) is applied and some people appear to have had success by immersing the item in boiling water and leaving it for some minutes. Others have suggested that if the item is put in the freezer, the araldite and the metal will contract at different rates and the bond will either break or weaken.

Selleys themselves say that to reposition the bond once cured, check that the item is heat resistant. "If safe, heat the item slowly, e.g. in an oven, to at least 150ºC. The product will soften and liquify slightly. Scrape off any excess then reposition the joint carefully using appropriate safety equipment. Allow the item to cool down in the correct position. The product will reharden once returned to room temperature".

Obviously opne has to be very careful using heat with white metal!

David.

[allanferguson]

I have found that leaving the model for an extended period (several days) in a bath of nitromors will soften araldite sufficiently for the joints to be parted, and the remains to be peeled off. I've used it on a plastic model too (a Ratio kit) without destroying the plastic, but I wouldn't neccessarily trust it with all plastics.

Allan F

[45609]

I would back up the Nitromors solution. I once had to strip the paint from a brass tender kit that had one or two parts glued on with araldite. These fell off and disappeared into the nasty gunge never to be seen again. Also there was a large lump of Milliput used in the coal space which softened after long exposure to the Nitormors. IIRC Milliput is an epoxy based substance too.

Cheers...Morgan

[spencerman]

Thanks everyone.
looks like Nitromors then.
I will report back.
Philip

[martin goodall]

I would also recommend Nitromors.

But you don't need to immerse the model in it.

I successfully took apart a kit assembled with epoxy resin [Araldite, Devcon or whatever] by pouring a small amount of Nitromors into the bottom of a large jar, lowering the kit into the jar and screwing on the lid. After 24 hours the epoxy resin had effectively dissolved and it only remained to clean up the separated parts. The vapour from the Nitromors was sufficient to do the job.

[Note: When dealing with a chemical compund which is that powerful, you want to handle it with considerable care. No skin contact, avoid breathing the vapour, etc. - basically that means wearing the appropriate protection.]

[allanferguson]

Can I just reinforce Martin's comment about taking care when handling Nitromors -- it's nasty stuff! Many years ago I was stripping down the hull of my dinghy and was careless enough to get some on my hand; the burn lasted some time. and if it had been my eye...

Allan F

[williambarter]

I have also had cellulose thinners cause araldited parts to drop off - but its a lot easier to find them again than I imagine it is with Nitromors.

William Barter

[Hardwicke]

Any idea how to remove araldite/epoxy off white metal kits?
It's also all over the brass but I can use a scalpel for that. My guess is the original builder of this was scared of soldering !!!

IMG20230724085300.jpg

IMG20230724085231.jpg

[Hardwicke]

For those interested it's a D&S GN Colwick wagon

[nigelcliffe]

Nitromoors paint stripper used to work, if you can still get it. Would take a while, but eventually the joints will fail and the remainder picked off.

[Will L]

Any idea how to remove araldite/epoxy off white metal kits?
It's also all over the brass but I can use a scalpel for that. My guess is the original builder of this was scared of soldering !!!

On the brass just get it hot, the soldering iron will probably do. I'm afraid that wont work on the white metal (!!) but it should be possible to carve/peal it away with the scalpel, as the white metal isn't porous so the bond is only on the surface.

One of the nice things about white metal is that once you have the knack of soldering it, it possible to repair damage to castings by blobbing on solder and then filing/carving it back to shape.

[Paul Cram]

Brake fluid works. I use it as a paint stripper.

[Hardwicke]

Any idea how to remove araldite/epoxy off white metal kits?
It's also all over the brass but I can use a scalpel for that. My guess is the original builder of this was scared of soldering !!!

... should be possible to carve/peal it away with the scalpel, as the white metal isn't porous so the bond is only on the surface.

One of the nice things about white metal is that once you have the knack of soldering it, it possible to repair damage to castings by blobbing on solder and then filing/carving it back to shape.

I can't remove it from the join between the buffer shank and body by scraping it though. I don't really want to buy a whole bottle of brake fluid either, but I did have some power steering fluid.
Yes, the beauty of white metal is you can repair it as discussed by Iain Rice over the years. I've done it on my Midland Motor Car vans as there is casting flaw on them.

[Hardwicke]

Brake fluid works. I use it as a paint stripper.

Would paint stripper work? I have some handy in the kitchen.

[David B]

I use Nitromors - dab it on generously and leave for an hour or two. Repeat as necessary. Today's Nitromors is a shadow of the original. I took a white metal kit apart last month where the bloke who made it must have had shares in the Araldite company. It took me 4 applications of Nitromors to get all the bits apart and another on the parts afterwards.

[Hardwicke]

It's in Wilko's paint stripper now as that's what I had. Benzyl Alcohol according to the label. The liquid has seperatedy into gloop and clear liquid, but a good shake has helped a bit. All in a tin foil pie dish (without holes in the bottom). I'll check in a couple of hours.
Thanks everyone.

[RAO]

I agree with David B.
Nitromors, I've stripped various white metal loco kit in the part and they came out very clean.

[allanferguson]

I've used it occasionally and found it very effective. It needed to be left overnight. It was also effective on plastic wagons which somebody had araldited together, and it didn't affect the plastic. Do be careful with it -- it's nasty stuff if you get it on your skin or eyes.

Allan F

[John Bateson]

I wonder if it will release some wheel weights on AG wheels where the weights are totally in the wrong position?

see also
https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1081
John

[billb]

Acetone is what you want. Much cheaper and more effective than any of the other stuff that's been suggested. With the added advantage, any leftovers can be passed on to someone needing to remove nail varnish.

Bill Bedford

[Hardwicke]

The Wilko's paint stripper only released one buffer but cleaned the brass very well. I don't think I left it long enough . Overnight immersion required. If I find some acetone I'll try that Bill.