Brassmasters Blk5 45232

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Re: Brassmasters Blk5 45232

Postby 45609 » Fri Nov 08, 2019 7:42 pm

A small square escapement file is what you’ll need. Although these can be quite pricey and delicate. ISTR that Chris P ground down the tip of a more reasonably priced flat file to a suitable size.

The other option is etch some replacement return cranks with a square hole in them. Slightly undersized to allow for a bit up “fit up”

Cheers... Morgan

Albert Hall
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Re: Brassmasters Blk5 45232

Postby Albert Hall » Fri Nov 08, 2019 8:25 pm


I probably have copies of those in my shed. I'll have a look over the weekend.


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Re: Brassmasters Blk5 45232

Postby triumph3 » Sat Nov 09, 2019 12:01 am

Morgan, thanks for reminding me of the method used by Chris Pendleton, I will also dig out the relevant MRJ.
I have never been happy with the technique of soldering on the return crank, I have a set of expensive wheels with a melted crank pin area where to much heat applied. Your explanation of the maths of the screwed on crank has helped eliminate that idea!


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Re: Brassmasters Blk5 45232

Postby 45609 » Sat Nov 09, 2019 8:03 pm


I read CP’s notes on crank pins and return cranks again this evening (MRJ 219). It seems he does still rely on torque tightening to secure things but all is scaled up from 14BA. He makes his own crank pins and 12BA crank pin nuts. Thin copper shims, made with a home made punch, are used as spacers to adjust the return crank angle when tightened up. Unfortunately there are no photos of the punch or shims.


Julian Roberts
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Re: Brassmasters Blk5 45232

Postby Julian Roberts » Sun Nov 10, 2019 2:45 am

Loads about all this including much advice from Dave and others over last 3 and a bit pages of my Crab conversion thread. I found 14BA thread is not compatible with 1M Gibson crankpin over a longer length than a retaining nut. Final bit was tightening up against shims then lightly locking with threadlock. viewtopic.php?f=20&t=5538&start=175

Philip Hall
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Re: Brassmasters Blk5 45232

Postby Philip Hall » Sun Nov 10, 2019 5:54 pm

I have a favourite (but not probably very PC) solution to this one. I substitute a brass 14BA screw for the steel middle crankpin, and tap the return crank 14BA. Once the correct angle is set, I solder the crank to the crankpin, with a hot iron and 188 degree or electrical solder. The brass crankpin means that the solder takes easily (far better than steel) and if a minimum of solder is used, the crank can be untwisted later if required.


Dave Holt
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Re: Brassmasters Blk5 45232

Postby Dave Holt » Mon Nov 11, 2019 6:35 pm

It's a 4-6-0! Well, sort of. Besides some progress with the cylinders - wrapper, inspection covers and front cylinder and valve covers, I've assembled the basic front bogie frame and temporarily popped the wheels in to see where the axles come in the slots. I've made a rather major boo-boo because I fitted the wrong centre casting and that has thrown the mounting height out, so a suitable spacer tube has had to be fitted to the mounting screw to compensate. I'm thinking of adding a representation of the side bearer casting to fill the gap between the bottom of the main frames and top of the bogie frames. Even though it's all behind the cylinder drain pipes, to me it looks a bit empty in that region.
In these photos, I've inserted my buffer/AJ height gauge into the buffer stocks to set the front end to the correct height. The height will be finally set by balancing the springs against added weight.



Regarding return crank retention, I'll stick to my usual method of attaching the crank to an Ultrascale front retainer, setting the angle by carefully shortening the threaded part of the retainer. Obviously, other methods work for other people. My experience with soldering anywhere near Gibson wheels has been a total disaster although I've seen that method used with Ultrascale wheels. Perhaps they are a higher melting point plastic?

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