DaveyTee wrote:.. I thought I'd try it out together with CSBs on an old tender chassis that had been pretty unsatisfactory. So I took it to bits and rebuilt it and the result is pictured below. Not as neat as yours, I'm afraid, but I'm quite pleased with it as a first effort.
That looks like a nice workman like job.
These are the two pin plugs and sockets I use. I got these, at 95p a go, from All Components Ltd.
DaveyTee wrote:Now I've got to find a way of transferring the current to the loco that doesn't involve an awful and unsightly jumble of wires.
They attend some shows, I see them at Manchester. They also stock the 0.7mm multi-strand insulated wire I use on my loco’s which is also in the picture. This is fine enough not to qualify as cooker wire, whatever that is.
I haven’t quite got round to electrically connecting the J10 tender and loco yet but this picture shows all the bits, all that remains to be done it to wire up the plug and socket.
The centre section, which I haven’t introduced you to before, is an extension of the bus bars on the loco pick-ups. It carries them round the gearbox and rear axle, and terminates them under the loco draw bar, where the connections for the water pipes from the tender should be. This centre section uses a second PCB pad which is held in place under the draw bar by the bolt that joins the chassis and body. Note the use of tube to make simple plug and socket joints in the bus bar. This works fine so long as you remember to put a modicum of curve on the bit of wire that fits down the tube. I’ve used a variant of this approach to join loco to tender in the past but in the end its simpler to use the cheap plug and socket.
Here they are all installed on the chassis.
davidb wrote:There were often small buffers between tender and loco. How about representing them with the plunger type of pick-up?
Interesting idea, but I’m not sure I fancy it. Could you actually get sufficient free movement between loco and tender? Sounds like a recipe for unexplained derailments to me.