Split Axles Shorting Wires

[philchudley]

I have made some Branchlines Split axles succesfully, and no is the time to place shorting wires on the driving wheels. I have shorting wires from both Bill Beford and Brassmasters.

The connection on the axle end is obvious, but what is the best method to secure to the wheel tyre? My initial reaction was to solder these (I am using Gibson wheels), but there is only a small area of tyre available on attempts to solder without melting the plastic wheels centres has so far been unsucessful. I haven't melted the wheels (thankfully!) but have not manged in securing the shorting wires to tyres yet.

Also, if I did manage to secure the wires onto the back of the tyres, would the extra width of the shorting wire on the back of the tyre impeed the passage of the driving wheels through turnout frogs and check rails?

Any tips, suggestions? Possible other methods of shorting the wheels for split axles?

Cheers

[smyles]

Tin the end of the shorting wires and where you are going to solder to wheel. Clean wheel carefully first and use a hot tinned iron, a trace of powerflow flux to tin the wheel. Use a dab more of flux and then hold the wire in contact with the wheel and touch wire briefly with soldering iron, don't linger. If it doesn't work start again. When solid clean up and carefully file the wire down to clear check rails. It worked for me using EM wheels.
Mike

[Tim V]

Agree on pre-tinning the shorting strip. Use a lower temperature solder, not ordinary solder.

One tip I've tried is to file a slot into the back of the tyre, the shorting strip fits into this, then solder in and clean up so forming a smooth back to the wheel.

[Bob Ellis]

Hi Phil,
I am not convinced about the shorting wires produced by Brassmasters and Bill Bedford. I use a variation on a method I learnt from John James.
1. Select three spokes and gently - very gently - make a shallow groove in the back of each one using a circular saw in a mini-drill.
2. Extend the grooves a little way into the back of the tyre.
3. Cut a small 'V' where each groove enters the axle hole.
4. Cut three pieces of wire to length so that one end sits in the groove in the tyre and the other extends a couple of millimeters into the axle hole.
5. Bend the wires at right angles where they enter the axle holes. The bent pieces need to sit neatly in the 'V' grooves.
6. Solder the other ends into the grooves in the tyres using the method outlined by Mike in his posting, except that I don't tin the tyre because that would fill the grooves with solder. Instead, I use a bit more flux and a smidgeon of solder on the end of the iron.
7. Ensure that the inner ends of the wires are seated properly in the 'V' grooves and then fit the axle, which will hold the inner ends of the wires in place.
8. Clean off any excess solder and file the outer ends of the wire flush with the back of the tyre.
The reason for using three shorting wires is to achieve more reliable contacts: if one fails, there are still two others.
The slots in the axle hole are so that the shorting wires do not cause wheel wobble by affecting the alignment of the wheels on the axle. They also prevent the shorting wires from breaking at the point where they enter the axle hole.
This method works for me and for a number of other people I know who use it.

[Tim V]

Hi Bob

Good to speak to you at Portsmouth.

I would suggest the EM society shorting strips are my favoured ones.

I didn't get on with the fine wires, and the ones I built I think failed, but it was a long time ago (late 80s), I've used the shorting strips ever since.

[Bob Ellis]

Hi Tim,

Nice to meet you at Portsmouth.

I haven't yet tried the EMGS shorting strips. Are they similar to Bill Bedford's?

[philchudley]

Thanks for all the suggestions, I will try them out this weekend and let you know how I get on.

Was also at EMGS at Portsmouth, good to meet you all.

Cheers

Phil

[davebooth]

Thanks for all the suggestions, I will try them out this weekend and let you know how I get on.

Was also at EMGS at Portsmouth, good to meet you all.

Cheers

Phil

Hi Phil,
My method closely follows that of Bob Ellis & I use five amp fuse wire.
One aid to ensure the plastic is not melted; fold a kitchen paper towel to a square a bit larger than wheel diameter, soak it in cold water and sit the wheel on this while you solder using a hot iron and solder with a melting point around 145 degrees. I tend to use phosphoric acid flux if soldering steel, it's a bit more aggressive than Powerflow *but* scrub clean as soon as you've finished!

[Tim V]

Just tried to post pictures of the shorting strips, after waiting for several minutes (I counted them), and trying two computers (one with Windoze and one with Linux), I gave up. Just tried RMweb, that is working fine. It's just the S4Webforum server that is incredibly slow.

The difference is that the EM society ones have little fingers that "grab" the axle better, the Bill Bedford ones can work loose after a while. The pictures would show this better.

It appears that this web forum is not fit for purpose. I may have to post pictures on my workbench over on RMweb if this carries on and give links.

[Tim V]

Bill Bedford's shorting strips.

IMG_2173.JPG

EM Society strips. Note the fingers.

IMG_2174.JPG

Also have 2mm strips on the same fret.

[Bob Ellis]

Hi Tim,

Thanks for posting the pictures. I can see how the EMGS shorting wires are an improvement on Bill Bedford's, but I think I will stick with the system I outlined in an earlier posting because it provides three shorting wires instead of one and nestles neatly in a groove in the spoke instead of standing proud ot it.